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Discussion Starter #1
I am brand new to Walthers but not to shooting. I have found a pre War Walther PP 7.65 in both excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition. Some little old lady only drove it to church on Sundays.

What led me to the pistol is I am currently enamored with the idea of a larger, steel frame pistol that shoots a very light caliber. I wish to build on the Mozambique drill and feel that is the right recipe for very fast, accurate three shot patterns.

Both the double action and single action trigger pull on these weapons seem very heavy. The drill would really be optimized with at least a very light single action trigger. I understand both DA/SA are adjusted together on PPs.

I'm looking for a detailed gunsmithing book that will give clear instructions for making this adjustment. I also want to make sure the reset is very short. Finally, I want to understand the limits in terms of safety. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

David
 

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I think you are looking at the wrong pistol for what you are saying you want. There are a variety of M1911's in lighter calibers for shooting and training. Perhaps a P5 in some flavor. Most modern full size Walthers are polymer except the new steel PPQ. I'm sure the Members here will have a list of ideas. M1911
 

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Put your PP on the WTS listing on this forum. With pictures you will have members burning up the listing quickly. A pre war PP is not what you want for this type of practice. I agree with 1911 that there are many pistols that would be much better. Use the money to get one of them that will meet your needs. A quick suggesting, if you want a classic, wood and steel pistol would be a Browning Hi Power.

Duncan
 

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A pre war .32 PP in excellent condition is an excellent pistol to own and shoot. I wouldn't even think of tinkering with it. I am doubtful there is any book on hammer/sear work you are asking about. It isn't a design that lends itself to such work. I don't consider a PP a larger, steel framed pistol.???. Are you considering it as such or are you after a full size pistol? You want a DA/SA steel pistol with instructions on how to lower trigger pull in both modes....is that the question? How about polymer, how about a DA/SA P99 AS? Striker fired but a decocking lever on top of the slide puts it in a decocked DA mode. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I like 1911's and have two. I am not aware of one offered in .32. I like the Colt 1903 in .32 but am not wild about the trigger. I have a Sig Sauer that is DA/SA and like that set up. I understand the Walther is not a large frame pistol but it is compared to current .32s on the market. Being all steel and relatively heavy, it should have very, very light recoil which is what I'm looking for. I prefer the .32 to the .380 and want to find something that meets these criteria. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I find it hard to believe a PP is the wrong pistol to practice the Mozambique drill or that a detailed book on their gunsmithing does not exist.
 

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I find it hard to believe a PP is the wrong pistol to practice the Mozambique drill or that a detailed book on their gunsmithing does not exist.
I do shoot my P.38 from 1942 just because it's so much fun. But not every week, and I certainly don't run drills with it. That would be like wearing camo and muddy boots to the opera. Or rather going mud wrestling in a tuxedo. Or taking a mint 1929 Bentley to the demolition derby.
And bubba-smithing it to fit that usage would be so plain dumb, I find it hard to believe you're not trolling.
 

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Just to expound on what others have said, a PP is certainly not what I would call a “larger” steel pistol, it is fairly compact, and is really isn’t a design prone to this kind of tweaking. I agree with Jimbo, a surplus Beretta 81 might be a better choice, and it is definitely much less expensive and less sacrilegious if something goes wrong. For that matter, buy two of the Berettas at the current prices and you are still looking at around half the money of a decent PP.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I do not plan on doing the work myself. I simply want to understand the process by reading about it in a gunsmithing book. While I understand your point, it is simply not possible to find a single action .32 that approaches the size and weight of either a Colt 1903 or a Walther PP. There is nothing wrong with exploring ideas and I think the basic concept is sound. I will never be able to execute a three shot pattern as quickly with a .45 as I could with what I am envisioning. The only missing piece is the light trigger. A well executed pattern negates any kind of caliber argument. If Keltec made what I am looking for I would happily buy it. They don't. The Berretta 81 would be a very good option if it were single stack. Good size, good weight, great price and not a fancy pistol. Too wide for discreet carry in my opinion. I'm not trolling, I'm trying to think through an idea. In the end, you may be correct. I plan to consider the idea and will then make my own decision. The reflexive move towards larger caliber pistols is just that, reflexive. I'm sure plenty of people wish they had not been hit by a .32 let alone two to the chest and one to the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will go take a look at the Berretta 81 to confirm it is not too wide. If that works out, great.
 

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Welp, if anybody could do this work for you on a PP-series pistol, it is probably Mike at M&M Gunsmithing in Alabama. Here is a link: Home
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you. Cylinder and Slide got back to me and said the PP is the wrong weapon for this project. Adjusting the single action trigger can inadvertently create issues. Told you guys! I'm now focused on the Beretta 80 Series and am trying to find a single stack .32. Double stack .32, easy to find and cheap. Single stack .380, easy to find and cheap. Single stack .32, crickets.

I will own a PP some day but likely for the reasons you do. They really are elegant pistols.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Jimbo,

You were right on target. Thanks. That is the direction I am now looking. At current prices, I could just buy a bunch of them and throw them at a potential adversary!
 

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I suggest sending a PM to our resident .32 hound, GonzoGeezer. He has a wide variety of .32 pistols in his collection and he might have a few suggestions for you to consider. The good news is that Americans generally think bigger is better, so prices on many models of vintage .32 pistols are depressed.
 
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Geonole,

Thank you. I would be very interested in speaking with him. I've carried a full size .45 for years and it is a very good weapon. I can consistently hit what I want to with it. However, I do think I'm on to something. Regardless of weapon, caliber, etc. it is bad tactics to shoot once and then wait to see how your adversary reacts. Execute a pattern as effectively as possible and move on to look for other targets and to get away. I always practice patterns. It has bugged me for some time now that if I will shoot three rounds as accurately and as quickly as possible in almost all situations, what role does caliber really play? The muzzle flip and recoil of heavier stuff is a real impediment to speed. If I can place three .32 rounds well even 1 second faster than I can with my .45, isn't that a pretty good argument for the .32?

Maybe I'm just simple. I have to allow for that possibility. Take care.
 

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We don't mind you asking for opinions. We do it all the time. I'm not a gunsmith but I have PP pistols of various flavors in .22, .32 and .380. None of them have a light DA trigger. It is in the geometry of the trigger bar. All of them have an excellent SA trigger. The new Umarex PPK/S (zinc) .22 has a DA pull of about....oh...80 lbs. I pulled on one so hard that I quit fearing something would soon break.

You have to have a mainspring of a certain strength, a hammer of a certain weight, etc. to drive the firing pin forward with enough energy. I don't think there is much room for change here. I'm sure people have fooled around with the hammer toe and sear but I've never seen anything written about it. The sear and toe are wide and any work would have to be done on a machine...not by hand. I'm sure there are no guides for the parts that you can purchase.

But regardless, you are still left with the geometry of the trigger bar interface with the sear. There is no way to add more leverage and if you could trigger travel would necessarily increase.

I like thinking about these kind of things too....:eek: Parts are a bit hard to come by for these pistols but...thinking out loud...I'd buy as inexpensive an old German police pistol that I could find to experiment on. I paid $318 for one in .32 about 10 years ago. Then I would find an extra mainspring or two or check Wolff to see if they had some options and perhaps a reduced weight firing pin spring. Then see if I could improve the pull. I'd have to study on where the trigger bar resets to see if I could shorten the DA trigger pull with those. Then, I certainly wouldn't trust it for carry. So, I'd be asking myself....why am I doing this. :) 1917
 

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There are uncertain merits in pounding "seasoned" pistols for the sort of practice you desire.
Concur that it is accuracy uber alles, but unless you reload .32s, the ammo can be expensive, and almost certainly ordered online.
Since you are used to 1911s, how about a Colt Commander in 9mm? Smaller, go with a 9mm Defender (Officers size). And cheap ammo. Both offer light recoil, and ample gunsmithing support for any mods you may desire. Did I mention cheap ammo?

BTW, the .32s you are discussing are straight blowback, and while not as rappy as their .380 brethren, they still have more 'bounce' compared to locked breech guns.

I love .32s, but within their intended sphere. If you really have to have a .32, consider the SIG P230 clan.
Moon
 
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Yeah, but the .32 P230s are not common and a bit pricey. That said, the SIG is probably the closest competition to the Walther PP series. Can’t argue with the 9mm 1911, plus a trigger that is obviously superior to the SIG or Walther.
 
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