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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the first picture of my hand-polished trigger. I'm currently looking for an armorer's manual for the P99, so I'm not winging it with removing the trigger assembly. I used 220 grit, then 400 grit, then 600 grit sandpaper. A friend suggested I try applying some Nu Finish polymer automobile finish to the trigger face, but I'm afraid to try it until I can test it on something else first. For now, I lightly buffed the surface with a felt polishing wheel using my Dremel on the lowest speed setting. Disclaimer: the words 'Dremel' and 'firearms' should rarely be used in the same paragraph. I do not recommend powertools when gunsmithing unless you know what you are doing.

The trigger now feels great! I am sending Walther (via S&W) a letter about the factory finish on the P99 trigger.



ciadst
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm surprised that Walther would let this kind of thing pass QA/QC. I recently had the opportunity to shoot a nearly new HK USP40 Compact and the quality of the molded plastics seemed to be much higher. I'm guessing, but it's possible that the parts, as they come out of the mold are the same, but HK assembly procedures mandate eliminating the mold lines and 'flash'. Anyone have any insight into firearms manufacturers' treatment of polymer parts?

ciadst
 

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Nice work. I suppose Walther should have put more thought into the die. They certainly aren't going to put the kind of time into each one that you did.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
MLB,

Actually, the whole job took less than 15 minutes. The polymer is more receptive to sanding than I originally thought. The tough part would be the final polishing. I'm guessing that using too much downward pressure could easily overheat and melt the surface, due to friction. Nevertheless, a good technican could do this in 3 to 5 minutes max with the proper jig and tools. Not a lot of time if it makes the impression that the pistol is worth a lot more money.

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Maybe if the trigger was molded with ribbs. Then the mold line could be between 2 ribs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
madecov,

I had an opportunity a few years back to shoot a SIG P228 with the old ribbed trigger. Felt fine in SA, but not in DA. I suspect that due to the longer arc, my finger shifts its position slightly. Maybe that's why so many DA revolvers have a polished trigger face. Anyway, other than 1911s, I haven't seen many autos with a ribbed trigger lately. Your idea is a good one, if you like the ribbed trigger.

ciadst
 

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I'm really going to have to do this, the bottom of my trigger is especially irritating on the finger. Did you make some sort of little sanding rig or just wrapped it around your finger and gave it the old side to side?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Soy,

I wrapped the sandpaper around a fluorescent highlighter marker that had a diameter of about 3/8-inch. I tried with my finger at first, and it was too easy to accidentally touch the frame or trigger guard. I tried a tiny dab of Flitz yesterday, but it didn't seem to help (or hurt). As my friend suggested, unless you use some kind of coating--like the NuFinish auto product he suggested--I don't think it's possible to get a really hard, glossy finish. I am told that third-parties make metal Glock triggers. Perhaps someone will decide it's worth making metal P99 triggers! I'd buy one in a second!

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those lines arent mold marks. Its a slightly raised abrasive area for finger grip on the front of the trigger. Sanding them off is an option for the owner, but if you look carefully, its designed there for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi hyrax,

I wondered about that, and sent a letter and e-mail to Walther America a little while ago. No reply yet. Perhaps I should have sent them to S&W. I don't have an original to examine right now, but the very small amount the area is raised, combined with the very slight amount of stippling, and the flash at the bottom tip and rear of the trigger, lead me to believe it was a molding issue. I still think people would buy a smooth aluminum or steel trigger if that were available from Walther or a third-party accessory shop.

ciadst
 

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Discussion Starter #14
FYI,

I got an answer by e-mail to my questions in written and e-mailed form to Walther America: i.e. 'Can you send me an armorer's manual' and 'what's the deal with the trigger...'?. Interestingly, but not totally unexpectedly, it was from someone at Smith & Wesson:

im sorry we don't carry an armorers manual for that model

Too bad they did not answer all of my questions and did not sign the response. Looks like I'm going to have to find the time to call them on the telephone.

ciadst
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ha! I got another reply from Smith & Wesson that the trigger face is supposed to be smooth. He even referred me to the Unofficial Walther FAQ here:

http://www.praxagora.com/lunde/WaltherP99FAQ/VII/3.html

By golly, it is supposed to be smooth. Although, I suspect that Hyrax may be right and the textured surface was a change that was so small, no one bothered to update the FAQ or tell Walther customer support!

ciadst
 

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All three of my P99's triggers look like your before pic of the trigger. My P99s are 00, 01, 03. They are not smooth they have the lines on them.
 

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I had the Dremel out since I'm modifying an AK-47 buffer to fit and function properly in my PSL and I thought of this thread. I did a quick polish job with the Dremel and a worn out sanding drum on the slowest setting (didn't want to take off much). After I reassembled the gun and dry fired it a few times I decided to round off the bump in the trigger guard a bit, so I did and then the trigger blade itself. After all was said and done, I hit everything with a dry scotch brite pad. Visually, you can hardly tell at all, but I can't belive what a HUGE difference it makes in the gun's feel!!! The texture's a little less pronounced and the frame's less glossy in the sanded areas but none the less I highly recomend it for anyone that wants a little more from the Walther's trigger feel.
 
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