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Mike , if you are taking the mag button out ,& have to squeeze the trigger guard to remove the pin & spring on the guard how do you do it? maybe my hand is too weak to sqeeze the guard up enough. I used to have very strong hands but this is beyond me now. Is there an easier way to do it ?
Yes.

Go to a hardware store and buy an Irwin tool called a "Quick-Grip". It's a trigger-actuated, ratcheting bar clamp with soft yellow vinyl jaws. They come in several different sizes and lengths. The shortest small and medium are the handiest. I have about a dozen of them for different tasks, particularly for woodworking. They are infinitely adjustable with very slight squeezing of the trigger to obtain exactly the amount of clamping force you want.

Remove the pistol's slide and you can clamp the frame behind the barrel boss. Apply just enough pressure on the trigger guard to center the dog-bone pin, and push the pin out.

M
 

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Thanks Mike , I will pick up a new one ,mine is in bad shape & probably too small . I have a lot of small clamps I use on ship models , but all too small . I am glad to hear that will work .
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I can report definite improvement!

After reaming out the chamber with a 9mm brass brush for about 15 minutes, and checking that the magazine was correctly assembled, clean and lubed, I fired 50 rounds of the Lellier & Bellot ammo without a malfunction (I could only fire about 10 previously before a failure-to-feed). There was also definite improvement with the American Eagle ammo, but usually at least one instance per mag when I had to push the slide into battery (previously nearly every round was a FTF).

After using that oversize brush, I still wasn't able to get an American Eagle round to just fall out of the chamber (slide removed, muzzle up), while a Lellier & Bellot round fell out easily. I guess I'll put the brass brush back to work to see if I can make that happen. I will say that if I pulled the AE round out just the tiniest bit, it would fall out.

I didn't do anything with the mag release. Frankly, after squirting some break-free in there and working it over and over, it has loosened up. Maybe I won't need to go there.

In general, I'm oiling up this pistol much more than my Glock 27 or M&P9.

I guess I'm going to be fine. My thanks to Mike and everyone.

:)
 

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Mike : I got the new Irwin clamp, & it worked beautiful. I pulled the mag button out & the spring was bent at the end . As I remember I could feel something when it happened. I had a new spring & replaced it & it works fine . I about killed my wrists trying to use that small Irwin clamp I had. I fooled with it a couple of hours , with my wife on standby to slip in the hinge pin. I didn't need her with the bigger clamp.

I also need a clamp on the hammer spring if I ever replace one. Old people do have a lot more fun trying to do something than these 60 year old kids . I have a 65 year old son- in law that I call one of the kiddies. Needless to say he might not like me at times.
 

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It's wonderful to see two satisfied people in a row.

LedFowl: I think it's time to try some other ammo. I'm not saying anything is wrong with the Federal AE but it's given me some unhappy experiences recently. I used to say that if a gun wouldn't work with Federal AE FMJ ammo there was something wrong with the gun, but I am no longer confident of that.

Try some Winchester FMJ. See if it will fall in and out by gravity alone.

M

PS: And put a micrometer on the recoil spring to make sure it's not a .380 spring. If you don't have a micrometer, buy one. (I couldn't live without a micrometer. It's permanently attached to my hand, rather like the Dremel ingrown on the ex-dairy workers at S&W, Houlton, Maine).
 

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Discussion Starter #26
PS: And put a micrometer on the recoil spring to make sure it's not a .380 spring. If you don't have a micrometer, buy one.
Yeah, I'm curious myself. I'll pick one up.

I meant to ask if anyone knows how these police surplus PPs were stored, and with what preservative oil. My understanding is that they were removed from service in the 70s and 80s. Where were they all those years after that?
 

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The German police PPs remained in service until they were replaced by 9mm Parabellum pistols (mostly SIG/Sauer P6, and some Walther P5 and H&K P7) in the early 1980s. Most of them were taken in trade by those three companies and sold to Interarms, who imported them into the USA by the thousands and sold them commercially through distributors such as RSR, Ellett Bros., etc. This ended in the mid-1980s. They weren't in storage long.

RE Micrometer: I find the most useful is a 6" caliper with digital readout that displays in either U.S. or Metric with the touch of a button; they cost about $100, but well worth it.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, I got my $15 Neiko digital calipers from Amazon today (sorry, but couldn't afford to spend more) and started measuring me some PP recoil springs!

Mike's .32 spring measured up like this (from his sticky on springs):
Thickness - 1.15 mm
Small-end coil, outside dimension - 13.6 mm
Big-end coil, outside dimension - 15.9 mm

Mine, the one that came installed on my old pistol, was very similar:
Thickness - 1.15 mm
Small-end coil, outside dimension - 13.9 mm
Big-end coil, outside dimension - 15.6 mm

So, it looks like I got the right spring included with my .32 PP.

I do want to mention that, about the time I got this pistol, I ordered an extractor and some springs from Numrich. One of the springs is a recoil spring which, according to my invoice, is for a .32 PP. I've tried this spring in my pistol and had a lot of hammer-following-the-slide problems while I used it. I went back to using the old spring.

Here are the measurements for this replacement recoil spring, which are very much like what Mike got for the .380 spring (see the sticky on springs):
Thickness - 1.3 mm
Small-end coil, outside dimension - 14.6 mm (fits very loose)
Big-end coil, outside dimension - 15.7 mm

I believe I'll try Smith & Wesson for a spring, as was suggested.

Thanks!
 

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The German police PPs remained in service until they were replaced by 9mm Parabellum pistols (mostly SIG/Sauer P6, and some Walther P5 and H&K P7) in the early 1980s. Most of them were taken in trade by those three companies and sold to Interarms, who imported them into the USA by the thousands and sold them commercially through distributors such as RSR, Ellett Bros., etc. This ended in the mid-1980s. They weren't in storage long.

RE Micrometer: I find the most useful is a 6" caliper with digital readout that displays in either U.S. or Metric with the touch of a button; they cost about $100, but well worth it.

M
Mike, I have seen a bunch of the police PPs (emphasis on bunch) both in the nineties and recently. Has there been some other reason these things show up in clumps like this? They remain a great bargain when available.
Moon
ETA
After a bad experience with a digital powder scale, I'm skeptical of electronic measures, tho' I have a tire gauge that appears reliable. Regular mechanical vernier works for me, tho' the ability to switch from English to metric would be useful.
M
 

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Mike, I have seen a bunch of the police PPs (emphasis on bunch) both in the nineties and recently. Has there been some other reason these things show up in clumps like this? They remain a great bargain when available.
Moon
ETA
After a bad experience with a digital powder scale, I'm skeptical of electronic measures, tho' I have a tire gauge that appears reliable. Regular mechanical vernier works for me, tho' the ability to switch from English to metric would be useful.
M
Moon: I don't know where recent "bunches" might be coming from. I rather doubt that they are from the German police, but Walther and Manurhin both sold PP .32s to police departments world-wide.

I have a Mitutoyu 6" digital vernier that I bought new 25 years ago for about $90 that I use constantly. After many thousands of measurements it is still accurate to .0005 when tested against a gauge. The biggest variable is to apply the same amount of finger pressure against the wheel to avoid "spring" and get repeatable readings. The ability to read in metric with a touch of the button saves a LOT of time when verifying dimensions on foreign-made articles.

You can buy electronic calipers much cheaper today and they are probably almost as precise initially, but the issue in my mind is how long they will hold their accuracy. I am not a believer in cheap tools; they always seem to be a disappointment.

M
 

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Mike, I'm off topic here and it is grist for another day; a buddy and I are off to a shooting course (after 45 years of pulling the trigger, I guess I'm going to learn how, or maybe more important, when).
When I return, I'll dig out my PP and have a longer look at it. Mine came from CDNN not two years ago, great shape and not much money. Had one before that was more of the same, purchased locally maybe 15 years ago, and again it appeared to be one of a group the dealer had scored, not a lone example. Maybe I need to ask of other members what their experience has been in acquiring these guns; unhappily, you're certainly right that the supply won't go on forever.
Full agreement on cheap tools; I've had a Lyman and Dillon marked vernier, Chinese, and they have been okay, but I want a really good one.
A machinist friend said that his plant insisted that the same guy take all the measurements on a job, due to the 'spring' you mentioned, and just how forcefully the measurements were taken. Having only one hand doing it all reduced the error, or at least made it consistent.
Moon
 
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