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I bought a used PK380 about a year ago used and absolutely love it! I like how it feels, shoots, loads, the fact that it is DA/SA and easy to de-**** among other things.

My wife likes shooting as well. Unfortunately during range time I have had probably 3-4 FTE and 1-2 FTF events with several types of ammo. Since then I only use it for sport shooting and solely carry my PPS even though it is not as comfortable in the warmer months.

I read through the forums and did not realize until now that it only had a 1 year war. Thankfully I got a good deal ($185 with original box & acc.) with two holsters. I had been waiting until I could get another firearm as a backup (which I finally did) so I could send it in.

Anyway I emailed support to see what my options are, but now with the recall (mine is older than that so not affected, S/N 005xxx) it could be a long time to fix and return it, plus I have no idea how much it would cost.

I would hate to have to get rid of it but need to get it to be dependable. I noticed the pictures someone posted of their extractor and how they fixed it from the looks of it. Maybe I could have a local shop look at it?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance!
 

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FTX and FTF can both be caused by an extractor that is too far from the rim.
(FTF when the extractor claw is behind the rim and the firing pin can't reach the primer.)

If you remove the slide an hold it front end up, and insert a round under the extractor,
it should not be loose, and should not fall out when you tilt the slide horizontal.

If the round is loose, you will also see some light between the claw and the brass.
I think some gunsmiths would not work on a PK380, but if you ask for a
specific correction, they might.
That correction might be to remove the extractor and shave a hair from
the inner stop lobe of the extractor until it holds the brass case.
It might take a few shave/assemble cycles, since too little off is better than too much.

You can do this yourself, but make sure you work on a white towel
in case the spring gets away. (and have a magnet for searching beyond that towel)
.


 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the feedback. I have a friend that works on Firearms and might ask him if it is something he could tackle or if he could recommend a place that would be capable of working on it.
 

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Hi guys - I attempted the extractor fix last night, but messed up the roll pin the first time I tried to re-install it. I have a good punch set that I was using but the flared end of the pin seemed to get bent out of shape rather easily. Do you have any advice for getting the pin back in effectively. I will also need to buy some new roll pins to replace the original - any idea of the exact size? I've seen 3x16mm, but I think that was a guess.

Thanks for your help!
ccash
 

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I ended up doing the extractor fix myself by removing the extractor and filing off small amounts of the extractor stop. It took me two tries to get it right.

The original roll pin is useless at this point, so I'm still looking for a replacement. None of the hardware stores around me have had the correct size, and so far I've been reluctant to order a 350 piece set for $8, plus shipping. I think I'll go to a gun store this week and see if they have an extra in the shop I can buy. If any of you guys have a few extra laying around that you could mail me, I'd be happy to send you cash or a check for the pins and stamp :) Right now the extractor is being held in with the pin punch that I used to get the roll pin out.

I just wanted to let you guys that have been having failure to extract issues know that it can be fixed (fairly) easily, if you don't mess up your roll pin. I decided, based on what I've read on this forum, that I would take my chances at repairing it myself instead of sending the gun off for several weeks and getting it back only to find that it still doesn't extract correctly. I've read multiple reports of that on here. Good luck if you decide to try it yourself, as well!
 

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I did a quick scan of inventory; none.

Sears Hardware would likely have it; maybe NAPA, Tractor Supply, etc.

I used a 5/64 x 7/16 since the original was too short for reliable installation/function.

A 5/64 x 1/2 will work fine.

Cutting a longer pin works using a dremel cutting wheel or a file.

.
 
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I replaced the short spiral pin with a longer split "C" pin, the most common type.
Order of preference would be spiral, toothed, then C pin. But I used what I had.

I have some spring pin insertion punches with a guide nub on the faces,
but they are not necessary.
The extractor load on the pin is away from the slide,
so I positioned the C-pin split opposite to that load.
There's a spike in the pin load at detonation/extraction,
so a pin's split or seam should not be in the aft direction.

If a case rim does not properly feed up behind the extractor claw, and there is no jam,
then the extractor nose will cam over the rim when the slide closes.
This can be an occasional spike in the pin load from the muzzle direction.
So it's best to to install the pin so that the split or seam is directly away from the slide.

I don't know if the original extractor pin was metric (5/64 = 2mm),
just that a measured 5/64 C-pin worked nicely.
.
 

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Hi, I bought my wife a PK380 about 3 months ago and had it at the range a couple of times and experienced the same FTF and FTE problems some people mentioned. My dealer said it was just a matter of "Breaking it In" and it should run smoothly, but after about 200 rounds still had the same rate of problems. Again, as many said, very much ammo dependent. The Remington Golden Sabres just refuse to feed and extract properly, while most round nose ammo had no problems.

I decided to spend some time and closely investigate the problem.

The FTE (fail to extract) problem occur because the cartridge being extracted, get "hooked" on the lip of the next cartridge in the magazine. This is because some cartridges have a sharp corner at the back end (primer end) while some have a radius or a chamfer, and they extract without any problem, as the extracted cartridge can easily slide over the next cartridge lip.(This is especially true with the Remington Cartridge)

The FTF problem (failure to feed), In my opinion, is due to the fact that the next cartridge in the mag sits too high, and as the top cartridge is being pushed into the chamber, the nose of the next cartridge push up on the rear of the cartridge being fed and cause it to "jam" before seating fully in the chamber.

Both of these problems can be "cured" by the following procedures, although there is still some ammo that will just not run perfectly in this firearm.

1. The "lips" on the top of the magazine can be bend in a little more to locate the round on top in the magazine a tiny bit lower. This will ease the cartridge being extracted to slide better over the next round. This does cause another problem though. By doing this, the plastic guide in the magazine do not rise high enough and the slide will no longer lock open after the last round has been fired. I just rounded the portion of this guide a little in the area of the "lips" to enable the guide to rise a little higher and still lock the slide open.

2. I also just polished the top corner of the Ramp to have a tiny radius, as well as the top corner of the chamber lip.

Was back at the range today and fired approx.300 rounds with no problems at all.

I reload with 95 gr lead round nose as well and have no problems with the reloads.

I am now very happy with this FA !!!

I now carry with Magtech HP and they feed and extract properly.
 

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I wonder if you have overcome a different problem with your mods (for most ammo, as you say).
When a round leaves the mag, the rim is supposed to feed up into a trap created by
the three rim guides on the breech face, and the extractor claw.
That trap should contain the rim during feeding and extraction, until the case hits the ejector.

If it's trapped properly, then the next round in the mag should not be able to force a misfeed.
And a rare sharp aft corner on the rim should only create a bump during extraction.
If the trap sizing is on the margins, that bump could pull the rim off the extractor.

Umarex sends a spent casing with a new gun, but I want to see three spent casings
to show that the gun has been checked for proper cycling.
.
 

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Hi Eddbrowne, that could be true what you say, but however, I think my problem is solved to a great extend. I took the remaining cartridges that I have of the Remington Golden Sabres and measured the rear diameter of the rims compared to all the other makes I have got and found that they are marginally smaller than the rest, so maybe when they hit the "bump", they dislocate from the extractor claw and fail to extract properly. I took five of the Remington Cartridges and filed a little chamfer on the rear of the rim and they now cycle perfectly, but obviously one doesn't want to do that every time, so I will stay away from them.
Seems like I will sometime have to do the extractor mod as well and see if that solves the problem I have with the Remingtons.
Is the spring on the extractor pin very stiff to put back in place once removed? If I try and move the extractor by pushing on it from the other side, it takes quite a bit of force to move it "open". Wonder if the side clearances on mine is not too tight?
 

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First, the case-holding test should fail. If not, the issue might be elsewhere.
And a gun theoretically can be fixed properly, in good time, maybe
for free, at the manufacturer's service center. (theoretically)

Yes, the assembly of the extractor pivot pin requires some effort,
particularly since shaving the stop lobe requires two or three assemblies.
(And losing the spring is always a risk.)
I now recall that I used a 1/8'' dia pin held against the center of the extractor
to support a c-clamp (or vise) that I compressed until the extractor holes lined up.
(The pin and clamp method might also help in removing the old pin.)


There's a good chance that the spiral pin removed will not be good for re-use,
and I would not use such a short pin. (it seemed it was no more than 5/16 ).
The diameter I measured was 5/64'' (2mm), and I used 7/16'' length,
but 3/8 or 1/2 will work.

The gap or seam in the pin should be away from the slide.
I inserted the pin from inside the slide to control depth and stresses.
.

 

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Ok. I have double checked mine and the extractor claw engages the rim of the case very well, so I don't think it will be necessary for me to do the extractor mod. Will from now on just stick to the Magtech HP's and the PMP round nose FMJ's as well as my own round nose reloads. They all work perfectly. Thanks for all the advice anyway!
 

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Was experiencing FTE/FTF's again AFTER it was returned after repairs. I have discovered that this CRAP ammo we are seeing on the market theses days is not good for our guns, I was sold, against their policy, a box of Speer Lawman ammo and it cycled flawlessly. Even my .22 was not acting normal with less quality ammo, side by side test with crap vs CCI, CCI won again. Watch what your buying and keep your gun clean. My 2 cents.

D
 

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i only had 2 FTFeed issues this past Sunday. Both times was with the same magazine, but two different types of ammo. The other 4 magazines i have did NOT give me a problem.

I'm going to tear down that magazine and give it a good cleaning.

the more rounds i put through the gun, the less picky it seems to be. i shot one brand this time but i can't remember the name. i'll have to look tomorrow morning.
 

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Okay i checked before leaving for work. Turns out i was using more than one brand and had no issues related to the ammo itself, only the magazine.

I ran some rounds of PPU and Herters, and might have run some Rem Green box, i'm not sure though because my wife was shooting her colt pocketlite and i think she's the one that used the green box.

Either way, a much better experience at the range Sunday than previously.
 
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