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Having never broken down a gun to this level, it seems like it would be a better idea to have a gunsmith do this for me. How much should I expect them to charge for something like this?
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Having never broken down a gun to this level, it seems like it would be a better idea to have a gunsmith do this for me. How much should I expect them to charge for something like this?
I wouldn't imagine much charge for materials, but labor would be a few hours or so.

I'm actually stuck on getting the front cradle out. The pin is completely out, but it won't budge.
Be patient, but DO NOT PRY on the cradle. Make sure the pin is completely out. If you can, work a very very small jewelers flat head screw driver and GENTLY & SLOWLY work the cradle out. Again, check to make sure you have ALL the pins out.
 

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jon,

Where do you think would be the best place to work in the jeweler's screwdriver, along the side of the frame, or from the front?
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Chris, don't booger up the sides of the frame or cradle. I would try to work around the front & under the cradle. You 100000% sure you have the pins (all of them) out?
 

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Discussion Starter #49



Should be 3: #'s 22, 26 & 27

  • Take down pin #27 (hidden inside the taken down button #23)
  • Trigger pin #26
  • Front cradle pin #22
 

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jontheturboguy,

Yep, I'm 10000000% sure. The front cradle pin was a bear to get out on its own. I'm halfway tempted to just say screw it,since the only thing left is to clean up the trigger bar. The pull on my gun is pretty smooth already, the main problem I have is that its still a bit heavy.
 

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jontheturboguy,

Yep, I'm 10000000% sure. The front cradle pin was a bear to get out on its own. I'm halfway tempted to just say screw it,since the only thing left is to clean up the trigger bar. The pull on my gun is pretty smooth already, the main problem I have is that its still a bit heavy.
I'm having the exact same problem, front pin and all.
 

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Alright, finally got it out. It was glued in on mine. Also to note, all of the surfaces shown already had a high polish to them. I wonder if they started doing that a couple years back? I forget which year mine is but it's from the serial number year range "G". I did run some polishing compound over it again anyways just to clean the crud off and it does feel a bit smoother. Thanks for the awesome write up!

I notice you are in Indy Jon, we ought to go down to Atterbury and shoot sometime.
 

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Ok, this may be a stupid question, but here we go. Can I do this to my AS trigger? Will it do any good? Will there be any major differences in parts or procedure?
 

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Excellent

This is an excellent tutorial. Took me about 4 hours (while watching Rambo and being distracted). I used a Dremel with the 'dry' polishing pads (they have the polish built in so it doesn't spray around all over everything and leave cotton threads everywhere). I also lubed up all of the metal-metal contacts points that were polished with Tetra grease and worked it in really well. The remainder of the parts were cleaned in 91% isopropanol and dry-lubed.

This really wasn't as difficult as I expected. All of the parts came in and out easily (except for the front cradle, which required some gentle working with a screwdriver from the front edge for several minutes) and re-assembled easily without any missing parts! Just make sure you are using a SMALL hammer to do this job - regular hammers won't cut it and you'll wind up with a nice dent in your frame...

Also, do yourself a favor and buy an actual gunsmithing pin punch set - Lyman makes one for about $20 and it was invaluable for this detail strip.

After I was finished, the trigger movement was incredibly smooth and the pull was consistent. This strip down reduced my QA trigger pull from 8.5 lbs to a clean 8.0 lbs. Replacing the firing pin spring with a 4 lb Wolff Glock spring (they're about $3 on midwayusa.com) worked beautifully and reduced the pull to a clean and reliable 6.0 lbs. Fantastic!

Now I don't have to think anymore about selling my P99 for a Beretta 90-two!
 

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Great thread - I can attest to how easy this work is and really smoothed out my trigger. Had it done over a couple of evenings and it took me 15 mins to reassemble afterwards.

I couldn't even get the front cradle pin out, let alone the cradle, but with the trigger pivot pin and the little pin through the trigger itself out (and the rear cradle out), you can maneuver the trigger parts (trigger, trigger cam (?) and trigger bar) out, and back with a bit of patience.

I also polished the slanted face of the little shark fin that sticks up at the rearward end of the trigger bar (right next to the trigger reset spring) and the nub on the sear part that this fin slides against during trigger reset. It helps smoothen out the reset, which in my gun was painfully jittery and hesitant.

I have tried the 5.5# glock striker spring, but recently had some light primer strikes on a box of Monarch, and changed back to the stock spring (which then worked fine). The glock spring definately improves the trigger smoothness and both springs appear to shoot a pencil into the air to the same height so I believe the stock spring, and the 5.5# are very close in terms of striker hit energy. But I changed them back until I have had time to do a bit more retesting.
 

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I actually have the same question as jm. 40cal, is there any reason to do this to an AS trigger system, or in my case a 1st gen with no designations?
 

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Has anyone here, who has done the Wolf spring, AND the unsuck stuff, measured the trigger weight post stuff? I did only the spring, I put a Glock factory spring in. I went from 8lbs 6oz to about 6.5lbs. I'd REALLY like to be around 4lbs, MAYBE 4.5lbs. I'm wondering how much the fluff and buff on the trigger, and changing from stock Glock spring to the Wolf spring would be before I spend the time and the cash to do them. If I'm still going to be over 5lbs, I think I might just sell the gun and wait to find an AS. I'd rather have the QA, but only if I can get it down to a normal range for the trigger. My M&P has a similar trigger, smooth, and it's around 5lbs. A bit lower than that would really be a perfect trigger IMO. I have a competition Glock that has a 2.5lb trigger, VERY light, but to be honest I prefer not having the safety deal in the middle of the trigger. The only real benefit to the AS would be the shorter reset that it has, but if the trigger weight on the QA could be put below the AS in stock form, I think I'd sacrifice it.
 

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crap i would love to smooth my trigger out but my balls have shriveled. is there anyone you all can recommend to do this? gunsmith whatever. when it comes to my gun i am a sissy. i would love a smooth trigger, would love lighter but at the sake of reliability can live with it.
 

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Did anyone try to perform similar polishing (bcause striker coil won't make much diference in SA or AS modes) work on the AS trigger and has experience to share?
 
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