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WOW!!!

So much hard work to post this. Very well explained and photgraphed. Many compliments. This certainly should be a sticky!!!!!!

Thanks johntheturboguy!!!!
 

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All I can say is I'm in awe (make that shock and awe). To say nothing of the fact that you are one brave SOB. I would never have had the balls (can I say that?) to attempt such a feat on my own. Springs and parts would be flying everywhere.

Excellent job and a great assist to the members. Well done young man :)
 

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Well, I'll admit that this was a bit further then I would normally tackle on my own, but it was try this or declare my 99 QA a complete boat anchor. No matter what the ammo, no matter who the shooter, it normally printed 2-3 foot groups at 20 yards.

So I studied this write up about a dozen times, printed it out, and printed out a few of the pictures of spots I wanted to make sure I had a handy reference on. I cleaned off my work bench, got a lot of light on it, and got the tools together.

Working slowly and carefully, it took me about 3 hours to do the entire process.

Flatly, I was stunned. When I disassembled to this degree, it was obvious that the parts were not exactly "lovingly crafted". Plastic trigger parts had *huge* mold sprues remaining on them that were catching on other parts, and many metal parts (especially the transfer arm) instead of having smooth bearing surfaces, were instead sharp, stamped edges. I was especially suprised as the pistol had 400 round through it; I would have thought much more break in would have happened at those numbers.

The write up is simply fantastic; the only trouble I had was:

1. Make careful note of where exactly the transfer bar fits into the trigger cam. The cam has a couple of holes the right size, and it isn't obvious on reassembly which one it is, until of course you have it in the right one.

2. The front cradle on mine was very tough to get in and out. Patience manged to get it.

3. The amount of buffing the main trigger pin required was amazing. I wanted to do the whole thing with steel wool and elbow grease; I broke out the dremel fairly quickly.

Overall, I would say if you are comfortable driving roll pins in and out, and have just a bit of gunsmithing background, you too can pull this off if you can't get the QA to hit the broad side of a barn.

Finally the rain let up and I managed to get out to the range...where my first 5 shot string printed 6" at 20 yards. Now, that still isn't the accuracy I expect from a pistol, but with the QA's long and heavy trigger, I think with a bit of handload tweaking and of course more practice I can get it down to 4" or so, which will work out fine.

I'm still pretty stunned at the quality of construction I saw when I disassembled; this is not the same Walther that made my beloved PPK.

Johntheturbo guy? You saved this pistol from the junk bin. If you are ever in Iowa, you have a steak dinner waiting for you!
 

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Jontheturboguy's post is indeed a wonderful presentation, and he deserves appreciative thanks from all.

A few additional thoughts for the intrpid who want to try it themselves: A set of roll-pin punches from Brownell's is a good investment and will avoid marring the ends of the roll pins. Also a few stones of various grits are indispensible (oil-filled 320 sticks are superb), and save a lot of time and do a better job in dressing off rough edges of stampings. Generally these stampings are so thin that they are through-hardened, but it's still a good idea to take off only the minimum of material necessary to clean up the surface. Keep flat surfaces flat. The Dremel tool should be reserved FOR FINAL POLISHING ONLY, with no abrasive coarser than white jeweler's rouge (#555, also available from Brownell's). Do not use a Dremel alox wheel to grind rough spots; ignore this warning, and you'll be sorry. Invariably you'll take off more than you intended, and ruin it. Instead use stones (or fine 320 sandpaper glued to a stick) and work slowly, checking often. When polishing plastic, very little or no 555 on a felt bob (beware of excessive heat!) will clean up minor roughness. Finally, some preliminary painting with Dykem (from Brownells, naturally) will reveal what surfaces need attention; rough corners that do not actually contact anything are better left alone.

M
 

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Awesome mod! I just did this and it really is much better. What was the brake cleaner for though?

And what else can we do to smooth things out or make the p99 even better than it is? I ordered the 5.5 lb glock spring so that should make it waaay better too.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thank you all for your kind words and support. :)

Im sorry I haven't been on here much, but Ive been working my butt off building turbochargers for people.

Ive also started a job for one of the largest diesel engine companies in the world...

WRITING THEIR TECHNICAL, MANTENANCE, AND PARTS MANUALS.

Go figure. :rolleyes:

Any who thank you guys again. And when I get my hands on the new PPS, I'll see if she needs any "help" and post another writeup.

And for those who asked, the brake cleaner is to clean off and remove any and all grit from the sanding/jewlers paste & buffing wheel. You don't want grit on a trigger job that you're trying to smooth out. LOL

Always here to help,

~Jon

(Bluefool.... You come to indy and I'll buy you a beer. You can buy the steak dinner.) :eek:
 

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You're on. I usually make it to Indy once a year in summer (I used to live in Indiana). So, a bit of a wait. I'm bringing the steak and a grill tho; I've seen what they call "steak" in Indiana.

My QA is now passing 1300 rounds; the trigger is still way too damn heavy (I'm replacing the spring this month); my wife won't actually shoot a full clip out of it because "My finger gets too tired to pull the trigger." She normally shoots about 300 rounds a week, so I was bummed by that. When I had first picked it up I had hoped she would like it enough we could get a second and share clips...but shooting it has convinced her she likes revolvers better :p.

But this trigger job and a ton of handloading have gotten the groups even smaller (5" at 20 yards fairly rapid fire, 4ish slow and steady). The bullseye .45 shooters still laugh at me, and small plates at 25 yards are dang iffy, but its getting there. That new spring first, then I'm eyeing the sights....I think they may have a bit too much slop in them for really accurate shooting, so they will be the next project.
 

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I was reading

at another forum where a lawyer type warned against personally modifying a firearm because if you have the unfortunate experience of having to use your handgun in self defense and have to face a jury your gun will be submitted as evidence, seen to have been modified and when asked why: "well to make the trigger pull require less force", " oh, so you wanted to pull the trigger faster?...."

This line of questioning will lead to insinuations that you deliberately made your gun more lethal and can lead to your defense being compromised, especially when a gun company representative discourages any modification.

my $0.02,
 

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at another forum where a lawyer type warned against personally modifying a firearm because if you have the unfortunate experience of having to use your handgun in self defense and have to face a jury your gun will be submitted as evidence, seen to have been modified and when asked why: "well to make the trigger pull require less force", " oh, so you wanted to pull the trigger faster?...."

This line of questioning will lead to insinuations that you deliberately made your gun more lethal and can lead to your defense being compromised, especially when a gun company representative discourages any modification.

my $0.02,
THat argument pops up all the time. It is a valid argument to some degree, but no one has ever been able to provide a case where this actually occurred.
 

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that is sort of fallacious: "it can't happen because it never has, to my knowledge, happened before"

but to each his own. this is an argument ill avoid.
 

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A word of caution is in order here for those who wish to smooth up the trigger on their P99:

Less is better. Just polish off the burrs and the high spots. Don't try to remove all visible stamping irregularities from the working edge of the front lobe on the trigger bar, or you'll probably go too far and reduce its height to the point where it may fail to fully disengage the firing pin safety block. The engagement face on the striker is a tiny little lug only about 1/16th high, and the vertical movement of the block to engage and disengage it is only slightly more than that, so there's not much leeway for error. Remember that it was fitted at the factory for the trigger bar "as is", and a reduction of the lobe height will alter that relationship. This is turn may allow the striker to nick the safety block as it goes forward and raise burrs on those surfaces or even cause misfires, especially when the gun gets dirty. Unfortunately on the P99 slide, the cut for the firing pin block is open to the extractor cut, so some of the glop that will normally accumulate under the extractor hook will find its way into the firing pin block and spring, as well as into the striker channel. It's not the best arrangement, and scrupulous cleaning is necessary, especially if the gun is carried for self-defense.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #33
And to the jury of that trial....

"There are no safe bullets. So WTF is your point bloodsucker lawyer?"
 

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I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I only just showed up....

I'll be fishing around in my shorts to find my balls for this trigger work as well. I imagine that if I take enuf pics with my camera, I should be ok. Only surprises "should" be with whatever flies off while I'm disassembling the gun.
I only just received my QA and was really dissapointed with the trigger. The amount of grittiness and seemingly erratic pull weight is phenomenal. Although my only intended use for this handgun would be home-defense (therefore close-quarters), I imagine trigger pull quality is a non-issue. Nevertheless, I sure as heck would like to be able to hit the side of a barn with this gun. As it is now, dry-firing alone is a chore.
Thank you so much for the write up, Turbo. And thanks to the others in this thread who've chimed in with other tips. As mentioned earlier, soon as I locate my couillons and order the appropriate tools as mentioned here, I'll be trying the mods myself.

Peter
 

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Ballz located, mods done. The directions posted on this thread were invaluable, as were the additions by Bluefool & MGMike. Having done the mods, the results were not quite what I was expecting;


I still have a lot of travel. I think I may have been expecting the amount of travel to diminish, which is NOT what the QA action is about. Correct me if I'm wrong now or was wrong initially

The trigger travel I have now is definitely smoother than before, but still gritty/rougher than I'd like. I believe this has more to do with the badly-contorted striker pin spring. I can actually hear the spring groaning/contorting even more as I pull the trigger slowly rearwards

The trigger itself really didn't require any work to it. I sanded it with 400 grit to remove the barely visible outline differentiating the finger pad from the outer edge of the trigger assembly. But this line wasn't really being felt my finger at all. I did smooth out the pad section itself which is now smooth. Again, it wasn't really rough to begin with.

The internals in general were not dripping with casting flash as I'd expected to find. The front & rear cradles were relatively easy to remove as well. I did have a bit of trouble removing the trigger cam, takes a while to figure out how to rotate it in order to be able to separate it from the transfer arm.

The transfer arm was surprisingly smooth at the contact area shown to be in need of polishing. I did file off some irregularities and polish it as indicated in the instructions. I believe this part has helped in perceived smoothness.

Straying from the posted instructions (an inherent weakness, I'm afraid :rolleyes: ), I disassembled the striker pin a second time and sanded the area of the striker pin which is contacted by the trigger mechanism as it's being pulled rearwards just before firing. It "seems" a bit smoother now, but I'm not quite sure of this.


Winding up, I think if the trigger pull weight was lower I'd have been happy. And I realize that Turbo's write-up was not intended to lower the trigger pull weight, mostly to smooth it out. I noticed that a couple of you guys mentioned replacing the spring for a lighter pull. Any news to report? I've ordered a few different spring kits to try as a replacement for the OEM striker pin. I'm hoping that by simply installing a striker spring that isn't so long, I'll relieve some of that gawd-awful noise of a contorted spring when pulling the trigger.


Thank again so very much to Turbo for the write-up and excellent instructions. I would have prolly sold the gun or ashamedly relegated it to Home-Defense duty, never attempting to bring it to the range for practice but rather hoping that any shots fired by me would be at a distance of 10' or less:eek:
 

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Update: Brought my QA to the range last night and all I can say is "I think I'm in love". I can now put 5 rounds in 2" at 10 yards, day and night difference as compared to before. I honestly dunno if replacing the spring is even necessary anymore. That won't, of course, stop me from trying :D
Thanks again, Turbo ;)
 

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Increadable information. Sure does work. Super smooth and 7.6 lbs break with a Glock firing pin spring. Awsome. Thanks
I've read several posts about using the Glock firing pin spring, but for which model Glock? Or, are do all model Glocks use the same spring?

Thanks.
 

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BTTT. going to try this in stages soon, not sure how far into the trigger job I can go (bawk bawk bawk). where can I get polishing stones?
 
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