My compliment, excellent video with clean and accurate practical skills. I like the surgeon gloves that adds a degree of professionalism... Bench and direct environment very clean
this guy is a pro! Thank you, keep up with the excellent work!
Tanfo is very adroit and dextrous, and he makes it look deceptively easy. A couple of points that are easily missed are worth noting.
Tanfo is skilled at holding down the frame with the heel of his hand while he works on it. That is the first thing you'll need to master in order to emulate his proficiency in dismantling and reassembling the gun. Or you'll need a padded vise.
Tanfo also appreciates the importance of not letting the recoil spring guides fly forward uncontrolled into their notches in the frame, as irreparable damage can be inflicted by such abuse. Notice that all times, he is carefully restraining both the spring and the spring guide and releases them gently.
I replaced the springs in my ac44 reblued. Not as elegant an execution as Tanfo, but I did manage to restrain the springs and get the new Walther factory springs in. Not terribly hard but you do need to be careful and watch Tanfo's video. I wonder what tool he uses to compress the spring? Just a normal gunsmith screwdriver? I used a bamboo chopstick sharpened to a flat point, as suggested elsewhere.
Bamboo shmamboo. I'm not going to no freaking Chinese resteraunt to obtain gun tools.
I prefer the K.I.S.S. principle. Instead of fighting with springs under high tension, I simply used the back door. At the BACK of the recoil spring channel in the frame is a hole. All you have to do is feed the spring a little way into this hole and UNSCREW it from the channel. No worries about scarring up the channel with screwdrivers or bamboo or whatever. You just UNSCREW the spring and POOF...it's out. The spring guides just drop out.
To install, just reverse the screwing procedure through the same hole until you can't screw it in any further. Then you can use your fingernail to pull back the spring enough to pop it the rest of the way in.
Dep: You have emerged (temporarily, at least) from the subterranean gloom of my Ignore List. I was fascinated by your Sinophobic Method, so I tried it.
Original P38 springs have closed and ground end coils, which means the end has to be plucked out with a dental pick or similar tool before the unwinding can begin. It's over 4 inches of spring, so it takes a lot of unwinding. I got it about halfway out before the remainder of the spring still in the frame started binding on the spring rod, forcing me to use more torque than my precious little fingers could apply. In the end I simply reverted to removing the spring rod, and pulled the spring out forward in conventional fashion.
If the Bamboo-Free Gunsmith Diet works for you, and the spring is undamaged, that's fine; I have no quarrel with it. But I found I can remove and reinstall both springs in less time than it took to partially unscrew one of them.
Yep, it takes patience and a lot of unwinding. With my diabetic neuropthic fingers it was loads of fun. I got it about 1/2 way out and then removed the guide rod, so no binding from that. Then continued to unscrew it. At about 1/4-1/2 inch left it just popped out on it's own. If the troops had to replace a spring in the field, I bet they did it the backdoor way, rather than risk launching the guide rod or spring or both.
Bought 3 sets of springs from Wolff. Just knew I'd be needing them when changing springs on my BYF43.....
I tried, Unsucessfully, to remove the old springs from the front as suggested earlier in this thread. I could Not do it and finally removed the springs from the rear while being careful to Not deform them. Unscrewed them as suggested in another thread. No problems and the retainer fell out in front. I checked length on both springs against the new Wolff's and they definitely Needed to be changed. Compressed and short. Removal from the rear was slow and tedious but damaging Old springs was not a problem. It didn't happen though as no spring was deformed in the removal process and I avoided any damage to guides or retainers.
I installed the new springs from the front. Compressed them with a small dental pick and slid retainers into place and all worked like a charm.
I learned and used something from several different opinions/methods mentioned here in this thread. Worked for me.
Thanks for the Valuable info. Never would have got it done without ya'lls help.
Changed recoil springs on my other 2 P38s. Took all of 20 minutes. I feel like an old pro. Everything went smooth as silk, but when doing this job, Pay Attention.....
Once again, thanks for the valuable info on this subject.