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I bought a new p22 after 150 rounds the barrel was so leaded up the bullets hit sideways at 10 ft. Is this a defective product? How do I get the lead out
 

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I bought a new p22 after 150 rounds the barrel was so leaded up the bullets hit sideways at 10 ft. Is this a defective product? How do I get the lead out
What ammo are you using? I use CCI Mini-Mags and I have no such problem.
 

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I'm using Winchester copper coated . 150 rounds leaded the barrel so bad I couldn't get the cleaning rod through
 

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I can't see the picture. Did you look to see if there is a case sheared off in the chamber? I've had that happen before. It's very hard to see as the cases are thin.
 

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Holy cannoli Batman!!! I have never seen that before. Yeah check the chamber, maybe call Walther. I have seen it where it degrades accuracy a little bit, but goodNESS!!!

Hope that you get this fixed up, whatever the case (no pun intended) may be.
 

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As mentioned above, I've never seen that level of fouling either. Clean, inspect, and try some other ammunition.
 

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I have ... and if you shoot non plated ammo fast...you can see it in any .22. How to get it out? Elbow grease, plenty of it. 1917
 

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Yeah, I get the idea of non plated ammo in high rate of fire, leaving leading. I have had a waxing issue with that wax coated stuff, but that came out super easy. That makes total sense, but that was still a LOT of fouling, and it looks uneven, like it’s biased toward the one corner off the barrel as in the picture. He even mentioned using copper plated ammo. I am going to say +1 to steamburn’s answer and get in touch with Walther right away! All you lose is time. They are shipping it back and forth and if it is under warranty for the fix, it’s handled. When I sent my P99 in for work, it was covered under material and manufacturing defects, and they made it right in almost NO time. I think I had it there, checked, and back in less than two weeks.
 

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You can foul any .22 barrel. Why would you send it back to Walther? I'd remove the barrel from the pistol and start shoving a .17 or .22 wire brush through it. It will eventually come out in long slivers. Take the barrel only, mount in something solid like a vise with leather wrapped around it.....hit it with a cleaning kit. Start at the chamber end. I might even soften it up a bit with some propane heat to help it think about coming out. Then you will have a shiny barrel again. .22 ammo has a brass or copper wash....not a layer of copper like a FMJ round.

I will admit that is an excellent photo of the end of the muzzle. Photo stacking? 1917
 

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The newer flutz product really does a nice job with removing lead. Some other products have fumes that require ventilation.
Some ammo will lead up one notorious brand was Remington thunderbolt's. But that was many years ago, they may have corrected the problem.
 

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I bought a new p22 after 150 rounds the barrel was so leaded up the bullets hit sideways at 10 ft. Is this a defective product? How do I get the lead out
My P22 is several years old. I have the SWR Spector suppressor and decided to see how long the P22 would go before it misfired due to the gun and not the cheap ammo.I was running Remington 'Subsonics' - these are wax based, nasty, and always 1 dud per box, two if you are unlucky. My P22 went 1,888 rounds before it finally got dirty enough to jam.

All lead bullets require lubricant. Does not matter if it is 22 or 338WinMag - a soft lead 22 or hard cast 338 needs lubrication. 22 lubrication comes in three basic forms. Match ammo uses expensive chemical lube - makes the projectile look dark black and you can easily make out the definition of the bullet. Cheap use wax. In the middle we have copper coated. Keep this in mind as I discuss below.

All new pistols - need a through cleaning with alcohol to remove the cosmoline like preservative and then a thin layer of light oil for protection. On a new pistol you clean the barrel with alcohol on the patches until they come out clean. Then a little lube, fire 25 rounds, then clean the barrel - when I say 'clean the barrel' I am just punching it with wet swabs a few times to get anything big out - lead - and small flecks of steel from the break in and machining process. Do this for the first 100. Bring your cleaning kit and alcohol to the range. (I like to put my isopropyl or wood alcohol into a small vodka bottle. Makes people keep their distance.). After 100rds I move the cleaning to ever 50rds. By 400 it is broken in.

What I am seeing in the pics on your pistol - looks like it was fired with some of the original preservative still inside the barrel - and because that stuff is sticky as all heck times 10 to the 3rd power, you have an accumulation. Nothing a 22 wire brush and a little patience wont fix.

I have seen this before. Someone buys a new pistol on Friday and enters a match on Saturday and the pistol has not been fully cleaned, tested or broken in. It's common because the gun 'looks' perfectly fine and ready to fire from the box. (if you were military and dealt with parts that were drenched in that sticky stuff - like they just took some from a telephone pole and smeared it all over, then wrapped it in anti-rust paper, then sealed in plastic...... yeah, the new pistol these days look nice and clean!)

Use a copper or brass wire brush and clean all the fouling out. Your next few boxes - go with something nicer with the black chemical lube and verify it is not building up.

Last. I have seen this happen with cheap wax coated 22 ammo left in an ammo can - in a hot car - all summer. The wax had dried up.

Good luck!
 
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