[shooter1201]

How can the DA trigger pull of the P1 be smoothed, lightened, etc....and MAINTAIN reliable ignition? TIA

 

[Abwehr]

shooters1201,

I am going to take a stab at your question. The double action pull on the P.38/P.1 was designed to have a heavy pull for safety in combat, and I feel that this was a correct decision on Walthers part. This is just my theory anyway.

As to what can be done to lighten it, I am not sure, but when you pull the trigger, the connecting bar must pull the sear which cocks the hammer and the hammer must overcome the tension from the mainspring. This is where the heavy pull is required to overcome the mainspring. Not being a gunsmith, the only way I see to lightends it is to install a lighter spring, but this may cause ignition problems.

You may be able to smooth the pull by "stoning" the connecting parts; connector, sear, etc. You must be very careful in doing this as one slip and you may have problems. I would only let a qualified gunsmith do this.

If memory serves me correct, the double action pull was designed around a 16-18 lb. pull.

Abwehr

 

[shooter1201]

Thank you sir. I had wondered if what worked on the Beretta 92(different mainspring), would also work on the P1. Thanks again.

 

[breastroker]

This post was a long time ago, but was Abwehr talking about the Hammer Spring when he was mentioning the mainspring???

I can't find any mainsprings in any of the exploded diagrams, but Wolff lists hammer springs.

Any one have suggestions on why to change the hammer spring in a P1 shooter???


Hammer springs below are common to Walther pistol models PP, PPK, PPKS and P-38, 7.65mm and 9mm(.380) calibers.

• Reduced Power....: 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, & 19 Lb.
• Factory Standard..: 20 Lb.
• Extra Power.........: (None Available)

 

[Quentin]

Yes, P38 hammer spring = mainspring just like in the 1911s.

The primary reasons to replace one is if it's weak and causing primer ignition problems or if you want to experiment with a lighter DA pull. A lighter spring won't make much difference in SA pull which of course is the bulk of your shooting - so it may be best to stay close to the factory weight.

 

[breastroker]

Got my order from Wolff springs, almost all the stock springs and 4 plus 5% magazine springs. I have 3 magazines now, ordered 10 more from RTG. Ordered 6 new mag followers from Keep Shooting.

I am going to try my CZ52 trick to see if I can get the P1 magazine to hold 9 rounds reliabily. Should be easy to get the extra round in, just cut off the long end of the follower a little more than the diameter of a 9MM shell case.

 

[Xerato]

Not really as dramatic as what you are asking, but.... I found that clean-up and good lubrication of the hammer/sear contact points helped a little bit. I cleaned the contact surfaces, the dried them, then applied "Brian Enos Slide Glide" between the sear and the hammer contact surfaces (double-action contacts on top of sear, single-action catch is on bottom of sear). it is a sticky grease that stays in-place (doesn't get pushed out-of-the-way). Of the few P1's I own, the one that I greased-up feels better in trigger-pull than the others (but that might be the luck of the draw, also, every firearm will be a little bit different).

I am going to try my CZ52 trick to see if I can get the P1 magazine to hold 9 rounds reliabily. Should be easy to get the extra round in, just cut off the long end of the follower a little more than the diameter of a 9MM shell case.

Please provide details and an update on whether that works or not, over the long term for reliability, I'm curious.