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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I bought a CCP from an older gentleman who sold it to me for $400. He had purchased it a month before, for the lower recoil, for his wife but said she did not like it so he was selling.

Because of all the talk on this forum I checked the serial number and it was greater than 15,000. I thought that might put me in the clear on all the reported problems.

The weapon felt perfect in my hands. When I initially got it home I opened it up and like many have reported it was filthy; oil everywhere. I cleaned it up and put it back together and it looked beautiful.

I finally took it to the range this morning and put about 100 rounds of 115 grain factory reloads through it. (Note: I have used these same cartridges through every weapon I own and NEVER had a failure until today.)

I had at least two FTE on each magazine I attempted to shoot. Additionally I had two or three stove pipes and found that when it did eject, half the time, the casing shot straight back at me rather than to my right. (I had one casing go down my shirt.)

On the way home, I stopped by a local gunsmith. He wouldn't touch it and said I should just send it in to Walther for service.

At this point, what would be everyone's recommendations? Do I buy a different range ammo (maybe some 124 grain) and see if I can break it in a little more? Should I call Walther and send it in? What success rate is there on Walther factory servicing? Do they come back fixed? Should I just try to sell it to some other schmuck and get my money back?

Help!
 

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Darth....your pistol has a life time warranty so Walther will work on it to make it right.....if they can. Unfortunately there are a couple of Members here who never got their pistol running properly after several trips back to Walther. I'd be demanding a new shootin' iron if that happened to me.

15,xxx is pretty far down the line but you have the original drop safety that some owners have had problems with. Dropping out of position and hanging up the slide. Somewhere around 18,500 SN Walther changed the mim'd drop safety to a new shape and one that is machined. All of that to say you don't have the latest but...some of these pistols are running 100%. There is no magic or observable anything you can do to predict what you might run into. That takes shooting, proper grip included....limp wristing will even cause a stoppage with a 1911.

I would clean the pistol, clean the striker channel and all components, I would absolutely make sure I cleaned the magazines, including the inside....the important area. Then I would shoot the pistol some more. After 100 more rounds or so if you are having issues feel free to ask for our 2 cents on the subject but don't forget Walther is only a phone call away. Servicing your pistol is free including the shipping.

But, clean it a bit and break it in a little more first. Keep us posted and good luck. M1911
 

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Yeah, there is a sentence fragment in there....just wanted to see if Searcher would catch it? :D What are you gonna do, give me an F. Year ago our grades were; A, B, C, L (low) and VL (very low). Those last two categories were my speciality. M1911
 

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Other than the FTEs and stovepipes, did you like how the gun shot? If not, get rid of it. If so, shoot it some more and see if it breaks in. It sounds like the gun is still a little tight and the slide isn't up to speed. That may be why it's ejecting shells back toward you. If it's still having issues once you have 200+ rounds through it call Walther.
 

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Mine is 208xx & I haven't had a hiccup with it. I took some pictures of the inside & out with the Talon grip on the slide rack, but my regular computer is down & at the repair mans so I can't post them yet. The thing really does look great on the inside & shoots that way too. I did not want it since they came out & now I have one.

When I shot it the first time I got it right from my dealer before I bought it ( he treats me great ) It was full of oil & I used a lot of different bullets & did not have one problem in a 100 shots. The feed ramp is smooth & shiny & the trigger is smooth as silk. It is loaded with Frog Lube now & has the Talon on the racking grooves & is even easier to rack now.
 

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Don't use reloads...factory or otherwise. Get some new Federal, WWB, Blazer Brass, or other good quality ammo that uses a standard 9mm Para fmj bullet profile. Skip Rem/UMC for now because they have a shorter overall length. Make sure your extractor moves freely and then fire a couple hundred rounds cleaning the gun at about 100 rounds. My PPS had more failures then your CCP and didn't become fully reliable until the 250 round mark.
 

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Don't use reloads...factory or otherwise
Before sending it back, and they may not pay for it under the conditions you stated, as I believe most factories don't recommend reloads for autoloaders.

Clean it, and use factory rounds from a reputable ammo maker, Federal or Blazer which are from same company I believe. I don't use Remington either unless noting else is available, but for other reasons, I think their brass is inconsistently made to specs. ... no provable facts, just my observations only.

Some of the highest quality Autos can be ammo picky...
 

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I have been either lucky or something, but I have not had a single problem with any of the last 4 or more guns I have gotten. I didn't keep them all but they all shot great. I never pay much attention to anything I shoot except my WW2 PPK 32. Even it sometimes will shoot HP, but only Silvertips or some Fiocchi HP.

I only have about 100 rounds thru my CCP, but it too has been perfect. I do think my biggest help might be is I do hold a gun right, even with weak wrists. I really want this gun to work out well as it is what I need.
 

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How are the gas ports holding up on these? The small hole between the front of the chamber and the gas chamber. Early on one Member reported his piston was chewed up but when he mentioned he was shooting unplated reloads it was clear the problem was lead build up. The service manual says to not use unplated ammo if I remember correctly.....but I haven't read any comments on the gas port. It looks a bit difficult to clean but perhaps a wire brush down the chamber and one from the gas cylinder is all that is needed. M1911
 

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I'd personally advise you to put some more rounds through it first. Maybe 2-3 boxes worth.
Yup, me too. Here's what I experienced.

Initial thorough cleaning, lightly lubricated. Piston & cylinder essentially run dry with dry Teflon lube.

Day 1: 50 Rds Fiocchi 115 Gr FMJ 10 failures to extract, Eject, or both.

Day 2: 50 Rds Winchester White Box 115 Gr FMJ 1 round (the first) failed to eject. Not cleaned beforehand.

Day 3: 50 Rds American Eagle 124 Gr JHP no failures. Cleaned beforehand. Then about 25 rounds Winchester White Box 115 Gr FMJ no failures. Too hot for me to shoot more.
 

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How are the gas ports holding up on these? ...
500+ rounds through mine and the gas port hole is still round. :) Good point though. The gas cylinder and piston an unusual feature that's easy to overlook when cleaning. It gets very dirty of course. I clean it with a .22 swab wetted with Hoppes #9, scrub the cylinder with the provided brush, clean the piston with a brass brush or a scotch brite pad, then dry everything off and wipe the piston with an oily rag to leave a light coat of oil before reassembly.
 

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f1911, I never use anything but plated ammo since I had one of my son in laws Cop reloads get stuck in my Glock 19 years ago. I had to take it to a gunsmith to get it out & he was not happy to do it.

I'm sure a home reload would probably be better, but I just have never been interested in reloading. My son , the retired cop said they always put every round into the magazine before they would carry them.

GP, I will have to go back & check & reclean mine as I forgot about the gas port. I cleaned the gas cylinder tho. You have come up with some good stuff.
 

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Regarding poor performance with factory loads: Remington 115 gr FMJ shows very thin soft brass and low velocity in my HK P7. Rather then floating over the chamber flutes as designed, they are engraved in the case. The same ammunition in my Walther P1 gave the same kind of malfunctions you describe. Switching to full power handloads in Winchester brass solved the problem. My guess is if you were using Remington ammo the case drag and low velocities were throwing the gun off. Try 124gr. from another maker and see if it solves the problems.
 

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500+ rounds through mine and the gas port hole is still round. :) Good point though. ...
Based on accumulated wisdom from the HK P7, scrubbing the piston is a bad idea due to accelerating wear on a dimensionally sensitive part. Solvent and wiping should be sufficient. A 'light coat of oil' on the piston just adds fouling to the gas cylinder as the hot gasses carbonize the oil. Clean and dry is best for any gas system, that doesn't mean being OCD about shiny bright. For the P7, cleaning every few hundred rounds is sufficient. I'd expect the same for the CCP.
 
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