Full disclosure, no live ammo was in the mag or action for these photos, I merely put a few rounds below it for looks. Plus, mag wasn’t fully inserted, bolt and fire control group removed, and chamber had a dummy snap cap in it just to be sure.
I don’t know if any of you are familiar with the firm in Spring, Texas known as Rhineland Arms, but they make a wonderful kit to convert a Mauser 98 to shoot 45 ACP from 1911 mags similar to the old British DeLisle carbines. You can headspace it in your garage or at your work bench with an inch and a half spanner and some muscle. Can convert the bottom metal with a drill motor and a dremel. Feed rails needed to be opened up a bit, but other than that, it feeds and ejects dummies reliably and just as aggressively as the original setup did. The bear was the scope mount. I had originally ordered a complementing one from Rhineland, but they were on back order, so I picked up a mil-surp one from a gun show that was made for Mauser 98’s and did the drilling, tapping, and reaming in my dad’s hobby machine shop. Gosh did that take hours of measuring with pins and micrometers to get the spacing dead nuts. But it all paid off. Bit of blue lock-tite on the receiver lock ring (think Savage style) and you’re just about golden. In all honesty, the stock work was the longest time investment. Dremel with a wood burr and a small shop vac to suck up all the dust, and its done. Had to relieve the action pocket for the new receiver lock ring, had to cut a dime-sized half round out of the bottom near where the 1911 mag release stuck out, and the opposite side got the same treatment for the actuation. Then on top, the left side where the scope mount intruded into the stock area had to be removed. All in all, once I had all the parts in hand, I spent an entire Saturday, minus lunch and dinner times, plus about two hours after church on Sunday to button everything up. Biggest area of attention towards the end of the build was the tightening everything down. Don’t over tighten anything, will cause binding.
Bottom metal, you gut the follower an the spring out, plus the latch that keeps them in. Slide the new adapter in to the pocket, align your three holes and center punch them. Get a c-clamp and some scrap wood and clamp It in place, as far forward as you can. Drill the holes, slam the pins in and grind off the excess. Bit of sharpee marker to cover any metal you disturbed. Install the 1911 mag catch parts in the usual fashion, and you have the bottom metal finished. Upper part was even easier, just threading things together, and adding loc-tite. Top Gear Top Tip of the Day... Gonna use a scope??? Unless you have a scout setup, get the low-ride sniper safety (which I have on order), otherwise that flappy wing is going to bash your ocular bell. No good.
I can/will take more pictures and add them later, but I was so excited to have it done after the long wait for parts to be collected and shipped in, that I shot these snaps in a bit of a hurry.
Barrels even come threaded at the muzzle, so if you have a can or fun addition for the muzzle, its the standard .578-28’s. (Side note, complete gripe, why they couldn’t just up it another .050” on the diameter and go for the 5/8-24 threads is way beyond me... Minds greater than mine, I guess...)
Langdon Tactical strikes again with their modified 1301.....
Yes, I'll say it, total hypocrite because that is a Holosun on it. I'd actually had it for a few years, and it had been sitting in the safe, and at one point I debated selling it, and buying the Trijicon, but.....why? Still waiting on the Aridus side saddle, but I've come a long way with the 1301. A 1301 was my first shotgun for 3-Gun, and I wasn't sold, and moved to Benelli. This 2nd generation 1301 fixed everything I didn't like, and am extremly happy with it. Now just to figure where to mount a light, and I'll be good to go!
Got the Bernardelli Practical VB field stripped and soaked overnight in Hoppes -9- cleaner/lube.
Took a few hours to remove the 29 year old gun grease, it was everywhere, even a thick layer inside the barrel. It's a good thing though, everything looks like the day it left the Gardone VT factory in Italy.
I was planning on taking first shots with it in a few weeks. Getting together with my sons for two weeks.
This Practical VB is so nice, I don't want to shoot it.
Almost makes me wish someone "knocked the new" off it before my purchase.
These are ultra rare in all black finish (the 1992 Catalog in pics above doesn't even SHOW this finish option, and this is a BC (1992) code gun!). The 9mm Para chambering is rare too. Most Practical VBs were produced in 9x21 or 40 S&W.
This combo makes this gun rarer then my P5 Lang.
Most gun collectors actually "settle" on a non-9mm Para Practical VB, because they never come up for sale.
The price difference is huge too. The 9mm Para guns sell at around double the price of similar condition 9x21 and 40 S&W chambered examples.
A factory hard chrome 40 S&W Practical VB sold two day after mine, final bid was less then 1/2 the 9mm Para price.
Buy once, cry once.
I took a chance on a revolver. I bought it from a widow who was clearing out her husband’s collection. It looked almost unused but the hand wasn’t functioning quite right. I took a chance and bought it. Bought a new repro hand from Numrich and tried to install it but soon saw the fitment was going to require someone with actual skills, so I took it to my gunsmith. Just got it back, and it feels good. Still need to get it to the range. It’s a 1978 H&R 925 “Defender” in .38 S&W. I’m a pushover for a top-break, and the barrel profile looks just too cool.