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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A new to me PPK. I’m admittedly not well versed with them, so best I can tell is 1932 manufacture. I plan on using as a shooter so wanted to be sure there wasn’t anything particularly special with it I wasn’t aware of to relegate it to safe queen status. Thanks!
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I plan on using as a shooter so wanted to be sure there wasn’t anything particularly special with it
Welcome to the forum.

You have a ZM PPK with a 90° safety and original grips. It's very special. If it was mine I'd shoot it but a lot of members here wouldn't.

Great photos. What kind of lighting were you using ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum.

You have a ZM PPK with a 90° safety and original grips. It's very special. If it was mine I'd shoot it but a lot of members here wouldn't.

Great photos. What kind of lighting were you using ?
Thanks! & to clarify, when I say shoot, definitely not going to abuse it.

Nothing special on the lighting, just used an iPhone in the kitchen. I recently damaged my phone & got the most recent model as a result & it’s camera capabilities are impressive.
 

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when I say shoot, definitely not going to abuse it.
When you decock make sure that you ride the hammer down. If it drops forward at full speed you can crack the safety drum and I don't know that replacing a 90° safety with a 60° is feasible.

Does yours have a loaded chamber indicator ?
 

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Nice catch; you might want to put those original grips aside if you're going to shoot it much. Concur with Redcat about the safety.
Moon
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When you decock make sure that you ride the hammer down. If it drops forward at full speed you can crack the safety drum and I don't know that replacing a 90° safety with a 60° is feasible.

Does yours have a loaded chamber indicator ?
Thanks, good info on the decocking.

there is a loaded chamber indicator; the slide numbers do not match however, so it’s a mismatch there (actually can’t tell what the numbers on the slide actually are, just that it doesn’t match the frame numbers).
 

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Walther scratched the last three numbers of the serial number into the slide, visible thru ejection port. Handwritten...

Sorry for my typo 😊
 

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I don't see any remnants of a serial number on the outside of the slide. So it might be the original. As has been suggested have a look at the inside of the slide for some electric penciled in numbers. I guess electric pencil is correct. They weren't rolled or stamped. Welcome to the Forum. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Uh
Walther scratched the last three numbers of the serial number into the slide, visible thru ejection port. Handwritten...

Sorry for my typo 😊
sorry maybe I wasn’t clear. I did find the numbers etched on the slide, I just can’t really make out exactly what the numbers are, but I can tell enough that it’s not the correct numbers compared to the frame’s serial number.
 

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The 90 degree drum is more easily broken than the 60 degree drum. However, long use from firing the pistol is as likely to cause a drum that will fail, to fail, as much as letting the hammer freely fall when decocking. Over the life of the pistol, most shock to the drum will likely come from firing. That said, I also ease the hammer down when decocking.
 
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