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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my first Walther today. Father's day present to myself.

PPK/S Blued in .380. S&W Test fire date of 6-22-12

With .380 being extremely difficult to find where I am, I could only get my hands on 50 rounds of Remington UMC 90GR FMJ and 50 rounds Speer Lawman 95GR FMJ @ $25 dollars a box.

No failures to report. From slow fire, to fast function testing. It fed everything without fail today.

I have never shot a PPK or PPK/S before, but extended beaver tail ended up making my hand pretty sore between my thumb and index finger. I hope this will go away as I shoot this pistol more often. (If I can find the ammo)

DA trigger is quite heavy. My SA grouping was a lot better.

I like this gun a lot, But will it be reliable enough to by my carry weapon?
 

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Pacmyar (hope I spelled that right, I never remember...) makes a wonderful little slip on grip that fits the PPk and PPk/s just perfectly. Takes a few minutes to get on since it is meant for a tight, no slip grip. But once you have it on, itll fix that soreness problem from the very first shot. Helps grip positioning better, too.
 

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I don't shoot mine very often due to ammo being scarce and expensive, but when I do I use my bicycle gloves.

Regards
Michael
 

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The PP, PPK and PPK/S have all been used as carry weapons for over 80 years now...I'd say that you can rely on this platform it is a well proven design.

If your weapon is in and of itself a reliable pistol then you have a great carry piece. Find its favorite ammo, keep it clean, frequent proficiency practice and (no matter what your skill level) maybe a few lessons.

I can't speak to the extended beaver tail as my PPK/S, PPK and PP family are German or French built but I can say that the 380 auto round is very snappy and a grip sleeve or a set of pachmayr grips may help with the sore hand but the platform was designed to fire 7.65 mm rounds (32 auto), the 380 is a very heavy round to shoot through a blowback design and most of that recoil energy gets thrown right into your hand and wrist so no matter what you are going to feel something.

On the whole though you have made a great choice for a carry weapon and let no one tell you the 380 round is too weak for a carry weapon...(but that can be a whole other thread).


By the Way...as a new forum member...we expect some good pistol porn from you....without images of your new baby, how can we drool???
Welcome to the forum...lots of great info here for you.
 
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Some of the S&W pistols work better than others. If you run a few hundred rounds downrange (good luck on finding any ammo these days in that caliber) without trouble, then you have a keeper. But as rifleshooter474 indicates, it's a call that only you can make. This thread ...

http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/faq-pp-tp/14589-ppk-small-hand-how-combat-slide-bite.html

... also might be of interest.

It's been my experience with the S&W model that the trigger will improve over time. Again, good luck finding any .380.

Welcome to the forum, by the way; enjoy your time here.
 

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Tommy, Get some bicycle gloves for the range. They will stop that. You are feeling the beavertail, probably not slide bite. It generally draws blood but the extended tail does really help with slide bite.

I have been carrying one PPK or another for 50 years & trust them. One of my PPK's is a S&W 32 & it has been perfect. It is post recall which makes a big difference. I switched my gun lube to Frog Lube ( look it up on the net) & it is the absolute best you can get & will smooth out your trigger & slide rack. It won't hurt your grips either like a lot of cleaners do. Check it out, some seals developed it.
 

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I will pile on and say SmithWalthers either work or they don't. Took me three tries to get one that works. Smith CS was appropriately helpful, but the techs were not. Thankfully, I have an excellent LGS which kicks in when mfgs fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions gentlemen. I just have a few more questions.

How many more rounds should I go through for "breaking it in"?

I have only owned Glocks and shotguns until now. There aren't any good videos on youtube on how to clean and lube a PPK properly. The only lube/cleaner I have is Ballistol. (Because of Hickok45)

And lastly, do you carry with the safety on or off?

Thank you all so much. I will keep you updated after I hunt down some more .380 ammo.
 

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In my opinion Ballistol is one of the best you can get.

If you look around (using the search function) you'll find tons of information answering your questions concerning "cleaning", "breaking in" and "safty on/off". :)
 
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There are some articles ( about a thousand ) on the Ruger Forum about Frog Lube , & compared to Ballistol on rusting. It is worth a read. I know Ballistol has a good reputation , but Frog Lube has been the best cleaner & lube I have ever used & it doesn't hurt plastic or wood or any finish. It is very simple to use.
 

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Also carry with the safe ON. There is a lot of discussion on this forum about this. Listen to what some of the experts say, mostly they say on.
 

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I carry my PPK/S with a full clip and ‘one in the pipe’ and safety on (no red dot visible).

If my muscle memory and training cannot handle the stress of being able to turn off the safety, then I need more training.
 

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Or like me artemis , about 40 years ago when I killed a 6' rattlesnake with a PPK 380. After 10 shots in his back I finished him off with a shovel. When we skinned him he had 9 holes up his back & none in his head. I think they call that buck fever. The snake did have to wait for me to change mags. He was in my front yard.
 

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The first one should have been in his head, but he was coiled & looking at me. He looked bigger than me from my view. Some things you never forget. I thought at the moment he could strike about 30' but found out they only go about 1/2 their length.
 

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Pier23, what PPK's did you have 32 or 380 & were they post recall?
Mine were SmithWalther .380s, and this was about two years ago...maybe less, so I assume post recall.

First round was chronic fail to feed, even with FMJ roundnose. Smith reported no issue and did nothing. Symptoms persisted, so was sent back. Smith reported no problems so its was traded for a Smith revolver.

A fews months later got the PPK bug again. Took it to the range, and after 30 rounds, a trigger pin worked loose and was about to fall out. THAT was replaced by another PPK which has been fine. Nothing jams or shakes loose. Very happy with it. Not so happy with Smith CS, however.
 

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Thanks for all the tips and suggestions gentlemen. I just have a few more questions.

How many more rounds should I go through for "breaking it in"?

I have only owned Glocks and shotguns until now. There aren't any good videos on youtube on how to clean and lube a PPK properly. The only lube/cleaner I have is Ballistol. (Because of Hickok45)

And lastly, do you carry with the safety on or off?

Thank you all so much. I will keep you updated after I hunt down some more .380 ammo.
Breakin is a really goofed issue. I sunk 600 rounds into a Kahr before it started working properly, but you kinda expect that with a Kahr going in. My PPK failed from the get-go and I put about 300 rounds thru it before giving up. My subsequent PPKs I was less forgiving.

With a PPK, IMHO, if it works out of the box..after clean and lube of course, KEEP IT. It is a nice weapon, classically beautiful until Smith munged it with their hideous logo.

If it fails, bag it and try another.

If it works, you don't have to worry about it. If it does not work, you won't be able to trust it.

BUT REMEMBER, these are NOT 10,000 rounds between cleaning service pistols. I dont think I have ever put more than 100 thru my PPK/S before cleaning.


Wonderful pistols, but when the zombie hordes hit, I will grab a Sig or Glock.
 
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