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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After several months of hesitation I took the plunge Friday and purchased a new S&W produced PPK/S-1. The QC issues that some buyers have had made me delay the purchase but after checking out almost a dozen at several local shops and finding ZERO defects, I bought the new S&W version. I have had several post-war German (PP's and PPK/S's), Manurhin (PPK/S's), and Interarms American (PPK's and PPK/S's) and the new S&W is as reliable and accurate as any of them. I have not been able to find any flaws in fit, finish or function. The new S&W version is equal in performance to the German, French and early Interarms produced guns and far superior to the final Interarms efforts which were more than a little rough. I love the fine blue of the German and Manurhin versions but for my my new S&W version I went with stainless steel. I have to keep careful watch on blued pistols for corrosion using inside-the-pants holsters. South Carolina does not have a monopoly on heat and humidity but I think we have more than our fair share.

The shop where I purchased it let me go into the back room, field strip and clean the pistol so I could head immediately to the range. After 200 rounds of Remington UMC 95 grain FMJ there were NO JAMS of any sort. At 50 feet rested seven shot groups ran just under 3" and off-hand groups a shade over 4". I fired one box (20 rounds) of 90 grain JHP Cor Bons to check reliability for a carry round. They functioned perfectly and gave me an offhand group of 20 shots into a hair over 5" with one called flyer out at 8". All groups were fired single action only. I ran several magazines through the pistol using a DA first shot and SA follow ups and was very happy with those results as well.

Some folks seem to have issues with Walthers and recoil. If a PP-PPK series Walther is your first centerfire pistol I might can see where you notice the recoil. After shooting +P 38 Specials or .357s in airweight S&Ws though, the Walthers have very little recoil in comparison. The tang on the backstrap is very helpful in reducing muzzle flip and gets you back on target a hair faster. I have never had any issues with hammer bite so the tang didn't help me any there. The only pistols that ever made me bleed while shooting them were the little Walther TPH's. They would invariably leave a pair of red slide tracks on my hand when I gripped them to high.

That pretty much sums up my first experience with the new PPK/S's. I am content enough that I'm picking up a second one (one for the house; one for the car) on Wednesday. I'll post results with it after its range initiation.
Best Regards,
ADP3
 

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I would like your opinion on whay you selected the PPK/S over the PPK.

What price range are the new ones in? What area?

Thanks,
 

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Sorry,

I also should have added in my last reply--

what specifically were you looking for when you looked through several to find the one that you settled on?

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have had several PP's, PPK's and PPK/S's. While I like the PP's for the range due to the longer sight radius, the PPK's and PPK/s"s are more concealable so I prefer them for a carry piece. I favor the PPK/S over the PPK because of the solid steel backstrap and the extra round. Magazine availability (especially used magazines- I replace the springs with new Wolff mag springs) is also a bit better (PP and PPK/S mags versus only PPK). The PPK is only about 1/4" shorter and 1 oz. lighter than the PPK/S. I would rather have the extra round and less fragile grips (the PPK's meet at the rear and if dropped can break-been there done that). I looked at the bores (late model Interarms produced by Ranger in Alabama looked like they were chiseled out), feed ramp and slide interior (if the dealer will let you field strip the gun-he may do it for you if he won't let you do it), slide to frame fit, grip fit (sometimes there is warpage on hard plastic grips), and exterior polish. Due to some folks having problems removing one run of the S&W slides I paid close attention to that also. I am in upstate South Carolina and my dealer had $479 on the price tag. I got it for that price "out-the-door". Bud's Gun Shop (http://www.budsgunshop.com) has them for $437.79 plus $25 shipping. The dealer charges $20 to do an FFL transfer so the prices would have been close either way. Buying it locally did allow me to inspect it first. The high prices I saw were $519 and I guess the average was $499.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
ADP3
 
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