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Discussion Starter #1
I have a new PPK/S and the gun is beautiful like most all Walthers. I have a problem with one mag not letting it go back into full battery by about an 1/8 inch. The same mag is also a little hard to remove once you chamber a round it is like the next round n the mag is slightly shifted forward. Anyone have any ideas as I am waiting for Walther to contact me back.
 

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The same mag is also a little hard to remove once you chamber a round it is like the next round n the mag is slightly shifted forward. Anyone have any ideas as I am waiting for Walther to contact me back.
This is a known issue I've been told. There is a thread about it down the page a bit.
Simple "work-around" (for me) is to hit the mag release twice.
Not a perfect solution but I don't reckon I'll be, under pressure, dumping a full mag with one in the chamber.
If Walther gets back to you I'll be curious what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you the mag ejecting isn't the worst issue the slide not going into full battery is but it is with just the one mag so I hope when my others get here I can tell more. So far Walther has the worst customer service I have ever dealt with.
 

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Can you see a difference in the magazines? Does one sit higher than the other? Do they release the rim at the same point? If one mag works and the other doesn't see if you can see what is different between the two. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The only difference I can see in the two mags is the follower in one looks like it is angled up just slightly more than the other. I did try turning the spring around and it has not changed that mag. I am going to try a couple different brands ammo I bought some pmc and Sig to see how they do compared to the Remington and Federal American Eagle I have tried originally.
 

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My S&W PPK/S had the same problem until the magazines had been broken in.

A solution I had discovered to the problem was to after chambering a round, hit the mag release once, slap the magazine back in, then hit it a second time and it should drop loose.

Eventually the magazine springs will set just a bit and the problem will go away altogether.
 
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Reversing the spring end to end is one thing. Turning the angle opposite of what it should be is a no go. I'm not following this mag release business. I would like to see a picture of the mags from the front, follower all the way up. Good one vs the bad one. Then load a couple of rounds and a picture of both from the front ( just the top ). You might lock the slide back and insert each mag with a couple of rounds so we can see how they sit. These need to be close ups in sharp focus and well lit to show the position of the round.

If the mag catch slot is not cut high enough it can hold the mag too high in relation to the chamber. The catch has a flat top and the bottom is tapered. There needs to be enough room in the cutout so that the mag does not bind against the catch. Also, all of these magazines that I've looked at have about 1/16" + play in. They over insert a bit, than should drop back down under gravity. With an empty mag you should be able to easily press it up and have it flop back down. This is the body of the magazine....not the guts.

It sounds like for some reason one magazine is not feeding smoothly, holding the round out of align with the chamber. The nose should run up the feed ramp at a slight angle. When the rear of the round is released from the rear mag rails/lips, it should pop up for a straight shot into the chamber. One of your's isn't for some reason. Try to figure out why.

I've been fooling around with a variety of .22 mags in a PP pistol and have learned quite a bit about how they need to fit. I've also found that while some things are essential, the pistol feeds properly with a variety of different brand magazines, even those that don't hold the rounds in exactly the stock position. The mags do need not to be in a bind, they fit loosely, they lock in a bit too high and then drop back down under gravity or the top round pressing the mag down.

A change of ammunition might help. Parts inside of the magazine should move freely....up and down. The follower should simply drop in, slide all the way to the top of the mag. I'm not much on break in....either parts fit and function properly or they don't. I'd be looking for a replacement mag out of Ft Smith if I could not resolve it. Pictures, good ones and perhaps we can see the problem. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1917 I shot the gun again yesterday and it seems like the bullets, when it does not quite go into full battery, are hitting just slightly high and out of line. It does it with PMC, SIG, Remington and American Eagle ammo and always the same clip. I will try and get some pics and post them. The mag empty or loaded seems to fit smoothly and has a little play like it should. I did notice one time that it looked the mag in question when loaded if I only loaded 5 rounds it worked well and seemed to only have a problem after chambering a round and the next one going in would not go into full battery, then bump the slide and it ran fine.
 

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Carr', you're saying the round itself is what prevents the slide from going fully into battery? It's the drag of chambering a round that slows the slide, or the round is slightly cockeyed in the chamber?
Moon
 

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Discussion Starter #10
halfmoonclip it is like the round is just slightly high going into the chamber and it hits at almost a flat slight impact that it stops it just short of allowing full slide engagement.
 

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I'm still not quite following this. 1/8" out of battery (slide almost fully closed ) means most of the round is in the chamber. Since one mag is functioning 100% and the other isn't I'm ruling out a dirty chamber or breech face....although...a good cleaning never hurts anything. I'm also not understanding the "hitting just a little high". How are you determining this?

Hand cycling while useful for some tests is not applicable to what happens very quickly while firing. I can only think to test if you believe the nose of a round is hitting the top of the chamber is to fire a round then remove the next one that was chambered. If it is hitting the top of the chamber and bouncing off and into the chamber, there will be a mark on the nose. Do this 10 times with different ammo and you will know if rounds are hitting the top of the chamber. This could be caused by the mag sitting too high or the rear rails/lips being a bit too wide at the front allowing the nose of the round to sit too high. A set of electronic calipers is very useful for measuring things like lip gap between magazine. They aren't expensive. Most are capable of measuring inside and outside dimensions.

If hand/firing cycling and one mag is letting the nose of the round hit the top of the chamber as the breech rail tries to shove it home....that loss of velocity could stop the round from fully chambering. But why...well, the recoil spring is stretched out, the rim is having to slide out from under the mag lips and up under the extractor, into the chamber and the slide is having to move forward.....all having to overcome friction and the extractor has to be pressed out against its spring. So, if you have a slowdown in forward movement of the round...any number of things or a combination can be the problem. Usually the recoil spring in these pistols is pretty powerful though. You didn't reverse the recoil spring at any point did you?

Have a look at the round that isn't allowing the slide to fully close. Any damage to the nose? Any damage to the rim from binding? Load both magazines. Try to lift the nose of the top round on both. How do they compare? Slide the round 1/4" forward, lift the nose..how do they compare? Some very little something is off. Perhaps you can fix it, perhaps not. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #12
1917 The nose on the bullet that stops the slide from going into full battery has a half moon looking drag spot on copper jacket that starts just behind the curve of the bullet nose but no marking on the brass case itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
BTW thank all of you for the help. I am in no way new to firearms but Walther is a new animal for me and the little quirks they have. That is half the fun though but can be a little frustrating.
 

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Photos. We need photos. Some semi auto pistols put marks on the nose of the top round when firing from recoil slamming something into the nose of the bullet or, it could be down the side of the nose of the round a bit. Ruger LCPs were notorious for this. The top round was slammed in the nose by the bottom of the feed ramp. Not a target pistol so in my opinion it was of little consequence. It did not cause stoppages and while there was much argument over this and what to do about it.....a close look at the rounds matched to the bottom of the ramp showed exactly what was going on.

I expect your nose damage is being caused by a round not being properly aligned as the slide slams it into the chamber. Since one mag feeds properly and one doesn't, this would still seem to be a mag problem. But why?...we won't be able to answer that over the net, no gun in hand and no pictures. But, the fact that the nose is taking a considerable whack into something that it shouldn't.....makes it entirely possible the momentum of the slide is being stopped or slowed enough to not fully close. Are you performing any of the tests I previously listed....like, comparing how the top round sits in each mag, how high the nose can be lifted, etc. I'm listing these things for a reason. This is the only way we can assess these types of problems over the net. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #15
1917 here are a few pics
The bullet pic is like I pulled it from the gun the marks on case are at top of chamber
 

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Send some pics with the mags loaded and point out which mag is causing the problems. In the meantime, leave the problem mag loaded and give it a chance to compress a little bit.
 

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FWIW I have two of the 2019’s and both have been flawless in performance except for the (sometimes) quirk noted above.
 
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