[stunksinatl]

I just brought my new PPK/S (S&W) home last night and broke her down for a good cleaning.

There was a lot of fouling from the test firing at S&W on the inside of the slide and rails.  There was also a good bit of fouling inside the firing pin assembly.  I found that I could clean most of the fouling except maybe for the firing pin area and safety area.  These areas just seem too small to clean!  Is it necessary to have the firing pin area look spotless?  

Also, I removed the less than par factory grips (I'm already considering replacing them) and began to root around in the trigger assembly.  I used solvent to get rid of the factory grease and then used some rem-spray on every possible metal-to-metal contact point that I observed that moved, wiping away any excess.  I did the same for the hammer assembly using the little peep-holes in the side of the frame to apply the oil.  I'm wondering if I overdid it?

The good news is that I turned what was a dry, gritty gun from the factory into a very smooth cycling piece.  Only took me two hours (ahh the fumes from the solvent)...  Is there anything I missed in stripping, cleaning, and relubing?  I can't wait to fire it, it feels like a winner.  My trigger, by the way, worried me at first, but after the solvent and oil is much smoother in double action.  I would suspect after break-in that the trigger would smooth-out even more.  Thanks for the feedback.

-stunks

 

[Mighty Favog]

There is now such thing as a gun that is too clean. Here is an excellent article from someone that knows guns better than any of us. His name is Bill Laughridge at Cylinder and Slide.

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/cleaning.shtml

For grips you may want to look at Hogue (my favorite at  http://www.getgrip.com ) as well as other brands. Since this gun has only one assembly screw for the grips you may have to have them glass-bed them to fit perfectly and keep them from rotating when you fire it. I had to relieve my pair a bit to make extra room for the sear (horseshoe shaped) with a Dremel tool and a #115 bit at very slow speed (so it doesn't get away from ya). I found this out by witnessing the trigger not returning to double action mode after it was pulled while being dry-fired.

You'll find other nifty little quirks about it I'm sure but nothing that can't be remedied.

Also, here is anouther article where Bill's shop did a makeover on a PPK/S S&W. Interesting stuff, enough so that I sent mine to him and have been happy ever since.

http://www.cylinder-slide.com/combathandgun.htm

 

[stunksinatl]

great link, thanks for the info.

Don't know if I should have it reworked, tho, need to shoot it first!!!

-stunks