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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
help please.

This gun is useless if I can't pull the trigger. It feels like 25 lbs or more!

I need 2 hands and 2 fingers, squeezing with everything I got.

It is absolutely ridiculous to release a firearm that cannot be pulled unless you have hands like Andre the Giant!

I hope someone has a link to a vendor who sells after market springs for this trigger. I don't mind a hard pull, just not impossible.

Kindly please advise,

M
 

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Their catalog say the DA pull should be around 17 pounds. About what you would find on an old Iver Johnson or Harrington and Richardson revolver. I'd take it back to your dealer an have him check it and see if it 's with in spec. If not send it back to Walther for them to fix. If it is within spec, pick up a hand exerciser https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...MI5JeLoZ6t2QIVxyaGCh3tzQR7EAQYAyABEgKOQPD_BwE and give your finger the exercise you need
 

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I have one of the newer PPK/s in .22 and yes the trigger is harder to pull than my 380, but nothing like you seem to be experiencing. As said above, call Walther and see what they have to say.

Just out of curiosity have you tried to fire it after you pull the hammer back? That should be way easier. If it too is a hard pull then the gun needs attention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you all for your feedback.



Yes, I have contacted them and they would not answer any question but simply sent me a return label to ship back to them.


The online dealer tested a few they had in stock and concurred that they where extremely difficult to pull. But did not return my call when I followed up yesterday to see what they would be willing to do.



I did pull the trigger back and the single action is crisp at about 4 or 5 pounds, i'm guessing.



I appreciate the feedback for the finger exerciser, and will get one if I have to. But I have been working with my hands gripping barbels and dumbbells most of my life. I just cannot think that my hands could be that weak.


After googling for quite a while I have not found a single link for a replacement part that would remedy the situation.



If the design is the same maybe the 380acp, maybe the same spring kit would fit and work?
 

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I bought a used one of these PPK/S pistols in 22. The DA trigger pull is very stiff. I solved the problem by just using it in SA (I pull the hammer back manually before the first shot). It doesn’t bother me because I only shoot this at the range. I decided to live with it because it was inexpensive and I know that it is cheaply made. The build quality on this is nothing like the old ones.


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...I solved the problem by just using it in SA (I pull the hammer back manually before the first shot)..... I decided to live with it because it was inexpensive and I know that it is cheaply made. The build quality on this is nothing like the old ones.
A very pragmatic approach...

If you want to shoot a real gun that gives the closest you'll get to an orgasm with .22 LR, indulge yourself in a postwar PPK, PPK/s or PP produced wholly or partially by Manurhin. Or by Walther prewar. The others are just make-believe.

M
 

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The online dealer tested a few they had in stock and concurred that they where extremely difficult to pull. But did not return my call when I followed up yesterday to see what they would be willing to do.
Why would he? Not his problem, not his fault. As soon as you take possession of it after a transfer, it's your problem and the manufacturer's.


If the design is the same maybe the 380acp, maybe the same spring kit would fit and work?
Doubt it. Cock the hammer back to shoot in SA rather than DA, if it's not already cocked anyway from when you chambered the round
 

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The spring kit for the 380 may not be strong enough for the 22. 22's are notorious for being difficult to set off the priming mixture. That being said most manufacturers use stronger main springs to ensure the little rascal get's a good enough thumping to set them off an the bullet on it's way
 

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I shot a couple of these. DA pull was so hard I handed the pistol back fearing I would break something. I'm sure DA pull is recorded somewhere...but it is stout. Talked to Germany about this and one of the trade offs on small pistols. You just have less room for better geometry. All of the PP pistols in all calibers that I have have a rather stout DA pull. No problemo....I just cock em and all is fine with the world. Of course I don't carry any of them and certainly not a .22 of any kind. A .45 1911 will get the job done but....they are SA only and that doesn't bother me either. I will say the little zink plinkers did perform well and were accurate....at least the two I've fired. I don't own one. I assume we are discussing the new Umarex pistol. 1917
 

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Sounds like your pistol has a problem. Have you reached out to Walther?
help please.

This gun is useless if I can't pull the trigger. It feels like 25 lbs or more!

I need 2 hands and 2 fingers, squeezing with everything I got.

It is absolutely ridiculous to release a firearm that cannot be pulled unless you have hands like Andre the Giant!

I hope someone has a link to a vendor who sells after market springs for this trigger. I don't mind a hard pull, just not impossible.

Kindly please advise,

M
I’d to own the Walther PPKS 22LR, as well as the no Walther PPQS/38 Auto.
I agree that theTrigger pull on the 22LR is tuff. The 38 Auto is much easier.
The reason for this is because rimfire requires more inertia to detonate.
Two possible solutions:

Practice. I managed to build up my finger muscle pulling the trigger while shooting the bad guys on television. (Please No jokes about excessive exercise of other triggers)

Change Usage.Pull the trigger when you need it, or pull the trigger and put it on safe.

Both of my Walther PPKS’s are great guns. And just like any relationship, may require a little adjustment to how they are handled.
 

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I’ own the Walther PPKS 22LR, as well as the no Walther PPQS/38 Auto.
I agree that theTrigger pull on the 22LR is tuff. The 38 Auto is much easier.
The reason for this is because rimfire requires more inertia to detonate Then centerfire.
Two possible solutions:

Practice. I managed to build up my finger muscle pulling the trigger while dry shooting the bad guys on television. (Please No jokes about excessive exercise of other triggers)

Change Usage.Pull the trigger when you need it, or pull the trigger and put it on safe before you travel.

Both of my Walther PPKS’s are great guns. And just like any relationship, may require a little adjustment to how they are handled.
 

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Simple solution to the DA pull effort. Place thumb of shooting hand on hammer. Pull hammer back to stop. Pull trigger. Works every time.
 

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I have one of the recent Zamak frame & slide PPK/S 22s and the DA trigger is definitely stiffer than that of my '70s German import 7.65 PP and .380 PPK/S. With mine, it's not so bad that I need to change it.
If you're comfortable working on your own pistol, I have some suggestions -
Assuming the springs are interchangeable with the older steel pistols, you could try replacing the hammer-spring with a supposedly weaker one for a .380.
If the .380 hammer-springs are not interchangeable, you might order and test a couple replacement 22 hammer-springs after shortening them a bit.
If these changes wind up causing failure to fire, you can always reinstall the original, unmodified spring.
Something I've done with my 7.65 PP and .380 PPK/S, is to exchange the original grooved triggers with smooth ones I found online. With the heavy DA pull, I find the trigger much more comfortable, without those grooves digging into my trigger-finger.
I haven't yet checked to see if a smooth trigger is available for the 22, or if a .380 trigger will interchange.
So far, the only really easy DA triggers I've found on DA/SA Walther PP type pistols, are on a couple of my Bersas.

Mark D.
 

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As far as I know, there are no interchangeable parts between the current Walther PPK/S .22 and any other variant but I could be wrong. They look similar, take down similar, are fixed barrel blowback.

My .22 has been back to Walther two or three times for extractor replacement (blown out by bad ammo). Nothing holds it in other than a spring. They replaced the slide once cause the serrations by the decocker/safety were being damaged by the movement of decocker. So now mine has two different serial numbers. The same damage is starting on the replacement.

Tom
 

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Sometime, I'll try to remove & compare the grooved trigger on my 22 PPK/S with one of my original grooved .380 PPK/S triggers. About how many rounds until you had the first malfunction?
I only got mine because I was buying a Beretta 81 from Classic, they had these marked way down to around $230 - $250, and I could save about $50 with combining shipping and FFL fees for two pistols. I did know about the Zamak construction, but so far, I've had no problems.

Mark D.
 

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Mine started out a total mess until I standardized (when available) on mini mags and ran several hundred through it. Plenty of wear points between slide and frame. Still will stove pipe or FTE when it starts to get dirty. I keep it cause when it has the right ammo and cleaned, it’s an accurate, fun little shooter.
 

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Mine started out a total mess until I standardized (when available) on mini mags and ran several hundred through it. Plenty of wear points between slide and frame. Still will stove pipe or FTE when it starts to get dirty. I keep it cause when it has the right ammo and cleaned, it’s an accurate, fun little shooter.
Haven't yet shot hundreds of rounds through mine, but so far, it's been completely reliable on bulk Federal 22lr. Pulled off the slide to check the trigger, and while at first-glance the .380 and 22 triggers look identical, they're not. So the only option I see is a lighter hammer-spring - if available, or buy another standard spring to modify. Then, If the lighter spring makes the pistol unreliable, the original can be put back. At this point, for the range, I'll probably just leave it alone.

Happy Motoring, Mark
 
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