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I went back to another thread and watched the takedown video and was reminded again why I don't do videos. Good for the overall process but not good enough for details...especially when there are problems....which is why I stick to photos. First, I can't really tell much about the recoil spring assembly but it looks like both ends are the same diameter. Then although they move rather quickly....I'm wondering can the pin be pressed in on the takedown lever to disconnect whatever pressure it is adding. It looks like access to the pin is not dependent on the slide being removed. Somehow Walther service is resolving this issue. In the video they press in a small pin on the right side of the takedown lever. Since nothing is jammed and the slide is off it is unclear exactly how this might benefit the issue of this thread. I can't tell if it just releases the outer portion of the takedown lever or had any effect on the internal component. They then tap the internal pin out. Still possible with the slide on????? If so that should at least take the lockup pin out of the equation.

Have a look Oldfart. Finally, if the recoil spring won't compress when reversed and isn't in the recess provided for the front ring....it is likely jamming the barrel/slide/locking block in some manner. Any benefit to tapping out the two roll pins that hold the frame to locking block, trigger assembly, etc. 1917
 

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Just got back....Yes, the recoil spring is the same diameter on both ends. I did install my rsa backwards into the slide and locked into the recess in the barrel. No biggie. Did I put that thing on the frame? Heck no.

I'll include a picture and see if I can explain.

When reassembling the slide back on the frame, you get it pushed almost all the way back you reach a 'hard' point. That is when the rear edge of the rear edge of the barrel locking lug (B) makes contact with the front angled part of the barrel lock (C) in the frame. You give the slide a little extra push and if you watch the take down lever (item 23), you'll see it being pushed down as the locking lug is pushed over the top. As you continue to push the slide rearward, you hear the customary click when the barrel locking block clears the barrel lock and 'pops' up....dat's da click.....or part of it.

Now, thinking about the take down lever and how it is connected to the barrel lock. The barrel lock (C) has a hole in it, and that's where the pin (F) goes thru. Pin (F) also passes thru the frame at (E) and locking block (item 29.1) at (D)....those two holes are elongated, allowing the take down lever to move up and down. Lastly, the take down catch pin (item 27) will interface with the take down lever at point (G). To remove the take down lever, you just have to pry one end of the take down catch out and down and rip er right off, or carefully pry each end off, just a little....one at a time, then push the lever down and off.

All of that to say, IMHO, this has nothing to do with the OP's problem.

I still think this new damper insert is part of the problem.



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