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Welcome Greyhounds, this is common to all P22s. The zinc slide hits the steel trigger bar ears with each shot to disconnect it from the sear. There are many threads on this. You can do something about it but I would inspect your trigger bar ears, front/top portion only to see if they are sharp. The pistol has a lifetime warranty. I have re-profiled mine for years now and that stops the gouging. Walther has made various attempts at rounding the top of the trigger bar ears, some efforts better than others.



I remove mine, turn it upside down with the ears resting on some emery paper, the front portion resting on a glass table top and sand off the top, front edge of the ears a bit. Then polish with finer paper. The resulting angle matches the slant of the ramps under the slide...but, this is a bit of overkill although it eliminates chewing on the underside of the slide. Way back in about 2005 or so some of these pistols came with trigger bars that would chew chunks out of the slide immediately. Put up a good photo of the top of your trigger bar ears and we can tell you if you are good to go or not.

Visit the FAQ section up top, there might be more information. I've done many threads on this over the years but they are scattered unless in the FAQ section. Welcome to Walther forums. Walther doesn't expect you to have to do anything except load and shoot, clean as necessary. Again your pistol has a lifetime warranty. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the info, I will post a photo later today of the trigger ears. I did put 300 rounds through it yesterday and the ware on the slide rail stayed the same. I was just thinking because it’s new with only 500 rounds through it if I should just send it in and let Walther deal with the issue ? What’s your thought on this. Tanks aging for your help.
 

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I will have to get a photo for you to look at. my trigger ears look nothing like your photo. Mine are just a flat piece of metal bent over facing outer edge of slide rail on both sides.and like my photo shows it’s only wearing on the one side.but after another 300 rounds the ware has stayed the same.
 

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Above is a photo of the same area of the ramps where the trigger bar ears hit on one of my old slides. This one has about 20,000 cycles. You can see that the laid back trigger face almost eliminates wear/impact damage to the softer zinc ramp under the slide. I've discussed this a dozen times with Walther over the years and they are stamping the top of the ears with something to round the edge off a bit....still not good enough in my opinion. But in a $225 pistol you are only going to get so much. Still, this is an easy fix in my opinion. And people have complained about it from day one. BTW, the very first pistols came with nicely rounded trigger bar ears...I've seen a few photos but never one live.

Again, the pistol has a lifetime warranty and if you have function problems due to this they will repair. But, your pistol looks exactly what all new P22s look like.. 1917
 

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The red arrows point to the only edge of the trigger bar ears that engage the slide. The rest of the ears don't touch anything, however that top, front edge is what hits the underside of the slide and if the edge is sharp it will damage the slide. I also note that the lowered primary hook has been kept on pistols subsequent to the QD models. That makes for a better trigger in my opinion. It has nothing to do with trigger pull weight but reduces the amount of travel the sear has to make before releasing the hammer. What it does reduce is the possibility of sear creep and trigger travel. At least Walther made a few changes and cured slide breakage. Just a few tiny things and the pistol would be 100% right out of the box.....ready for 50K rounds or more. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks aging 1917 for your response, I have no other issues with the P22Q. 500 rounds through the pistol and no issues but the ware on the slide witch has stayed the same so far after the 2nd time out shooting. Fun gun to shoot
 

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"wear" Greyhounds. :)



I have this old 2005 P22....man that thing has been put through the ringer over the years. All manner of ammo, all manner of experiments...like contraptions hung off the front end to test eliminating muzzle jump. You can't beat physics I learned. I even hung a full gallon of paint off the barrel stabilizer, 5" barrel and fired the pistol with it resting over the back of a chair. The muzzle didn't lift...the rear end of the pistol kicked down against a very firm grip. Glued stuff on the slide to make a long front sight radius....like, 6" longer than stock. Nothing ever broke or became worn out. One day I ordered a new slide for it. Just got tired of looking at that old, ugly one. Ordered a PPQ style since I had a Q style stabilizer. It looked much better...in fact...so much better I inquired about a Q style grip. What color? How about black or od. We only have black in at present. Now the pistol looks new...but the frame is still a 2005 one with well over 50K rounds on it. I don't bother to count anymore.I did put a caliper on the frame rails and can measure no wear from when it was new.

The field stripped photo above shows a couple of things. How good a shape the pistol is in for being that old, how many times a rim has hit the ejector to the point of peening the metal a bit and most importantly how little of the slide actually engages the trigger bar ears. See shiny area. Also note that the entire top face of the ear is engaging the ramp under the slide....which is why the ears are not digging into the slide. The photo above is after I shot about 1,500 rounds one day at the farm. A bucket of Rem Goldens (1,300+) and two or three hundred old, loose rounds. Never cleaned the pistol, never had any stoppages but it was beginning to slow down just a bit due to the chamber becoming dirty. Yeah the pistol got plenty dirty but it kept running. I almost hit one of the targets once too. It is a fun little pistol that requires snappy ammo. I run mine dry with some dry powdered moly on wear points. I've lowered the trigger to 2 lbs with no creep. Removed the hammer strut to make it SA only but the trigger resets in 3/16" so I have installed a JB Weld overtravel and pretravel stops. It is my target pistol for competing with Crete at 25Meters. That's all I use it for. Might tie on the suppressor one day and see if it is as quiet as the 3.4" barrel model. Nailed a squirrel with that one this morning....head shot. 1917
 

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What a very, very early trigger bar ear looked like. In 18 years or so I've only seen pictures of two of these. This one belongs to Crete, in Crete. He didn't notice his frame was cracked though. They sent him a new pistol. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #12
1917 thanks for all your support, make me feel better knowing this is a long time issue and not just my p22.
 

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This is what the ears looked like at one point. Talk about chewing up the underside of your slide. This was one of mine. I couldn't even fire the pistol with a part like this in it. I immediately removed it and re-profiled the ears. Might even be from the 2005 model I still have. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, I see the sharp edge you were talking about.i can see that would cause some issues. I have checked my trigger ears aging and they are rounded as you can see in my photos. I don’t really see any sharp edges on my ears, when looking at my trigger ears what do you think ? Would you do anything to them at this point.
 

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The trigger bar ears are steel. They are stamped from a steel plate. When something like this is stamped/sheared you get one side that is rounded in a bit and one side that has a sharp sheared side. During the folding process some parts have the sharp edge facing inward and touching nothing and unfortunately the ears ended up with the sharp side facing up. This is only of significance on the top, front edge. The area the slide hits. Recent efforts by Walther appear to involve running the part through some type of stamping that rounds off the top of the ears a bit.

Mine looked exactly like yours. Of course I didn't leave it alone, I don't leave several things alone. Always a trigger job and I lay the ears back to match the slant of the ramp. That almost entirely eliminates indentation/wear to the underside of the slide. I've done so many over the years that it all takes me about 30 min to disassembly, modify and put it all back together.

But, will your pistol function and last a long time like it is. Yes, and Walther doesn't expect you to have to modify parts. If wear leads to function problems here Walther will repair at no charge. So, you don't have to do anything....if you get curious, you do have to disassemble the pistol to do the job easily and completely. I'm good at this sort of thing. Some folks are not and should leave things alone. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ya I’m not sure I would try taking my pistol down that far to get at the trigger ears, I will just keep plinking away and have some fun with it. I basically bought it for target practice, to get my trigger finger to pull back straight. I tend to shoot to the left because when I pull the trigger my trigger finger pushes left. Need to learn to pull back straight. A lot cheaper using the 22lr ammo than my 9mm or the 380. I have noticed some improvement already after 500 rounds with the 22, shot my Glock 34FS and had a real nice grouping at 15 yards
 
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