New Member NEW CCP M2(trigger comment

There have been a number of threads regarding trigger work. Don't forget to look up in the FAQ section. Seems most removed the rear assembly from the frame so that the cylinder could be removed and polished. I don't have one of these so I've never worked on one. I have pulled the trigger on several and know what you mean. The front end, trigger and small plunger along with the trigger bar is pretty straight forward and you can place the safety on to disconnect the trigger/trigger bar from the cylinder. Pull should be smooth which tells you where the roughness isn't. The trigger bar does not have a lot of leverage when rotating the cylinder. More leverage...more trigger travel.

As the trigger bar rotates the cylinder the spring loaded sear and disconnector are moved by cams on the cylinder. Several folks have reported improvements and a smoother trigger by polishing the interface between these parts and the cylinder. Polishing is one thing....removing metal another. Don't remove any metal. Since this pistol is a bit dirty to fire due to the gas system I think I would lubricate the cylinder and bore that receives it with some dry, powdered moly. I have had good luck with this lubricant in other applications. It is slick, it is dry and won't collect debris like an oily lubricant would. I read that it actually provides a very thin layer that separates the metal to metal contact.

So that last 1/4" is where all the action is occurring. It seems Ekjung did some threads on this. Smoothing up the pull is one thing....having the pull remain smooth another and I think someone should give the moly a try. Dry....not moly mixed in a grease. Good luck....1917


Here is a utube video of a complete disassembly of an original CCP. Skip to 35 min if you want to see disassembly of the rear system housing which contains the cylinder, assorted springs, sear, etc. This poster moves a bit fast and whacks all over the place including not aligning his punches carefully but it does show how the pistol is put together. I did not listen to the audio portion. There is absolutely no reason to take some of the components apart unless you are doing a video just to do it or are replacing a broken part. e.g. Two pins hold the rear counter plate in position....why remove it? Nothing to be seen with its removal....but, his pistol, his video and it seems pretty thorough. I think Chandler provided this link a couple of years ago.

So what would cause that? When you pull the trigger the sear and disconnect are rotated. Does the downward rotation/movement of the sear press the striker hook rearward? That is the only thing I think of that would move the striker rearward as the trigger is pulled. An aggressive, positive engagement angle between the sear and hook on a hammer gun does the same thing. Rotates the hammer rearward just a bit. Safe engagement....not necessarily the best trigger.

The firing pin block being pressed up and out of the way of the soon to be released striker would not appear to move the striker rearward nor drag on it.

So the trigger bar is rotating the cylinder which is engaging the sear and disconnect. Yes, cocked increases the pressure between the sear and striker.

I don't know much about striker trigger jobs. Does anyone ever change the engagement geometry or is there too much slop in the movement of a striker to worry about it? 1917

Right, probably no Robar in Germany, was using the term NP3 in a generic sense. That would be really interesting if you had Robar work on the pistol.

Here is what I did to get the trigger pull good enough for my use:

- Disassembled trigger. Removed plastic flashing from area around the trigger bolt channel. Reassembled trigger.

- Disassembled sear, stoned leading edge contact with striker hook and polished. Did similar for sear contact with cylinder. Reassembled sear.

- Removed striker assembly from slide, polished face of striker hook and returned to slide.

- With slide off, worked trigger with simulated load on sear.

- Lubed metal contact points.

It is likely the flattened areas on the cylinder have a sharp working edge....the edge that presses the sear/disconnect up as the part rotates. I would polish the working edge....polish only and perhaps very, very slightly radius the edge. I would make sure the engagement surface of the sear/disconnect were also very smooth.

If the striker does not fit with precision in the striker channel.....and I don't think it does....how about a bit of buffing on the inner surface to smooth it up where it might be backing up a bit as the sear rotates. Or, if there is a sharp edge on the striker that is catching in machining marks....perhaps that edge can be relieved just a bit.

Or, someone could order a new sear or two and a couple of new strikers and begin to experiment with engagement. A large drawing of the sear can show how it moves when rotating...if you have accurate measurements. 1917