Walther Forums banner

1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Greetings , Newbie here to the Walther Forums , and new owner of the CCP M2..... but not to to the shooting CCW scene. Retired LEO etc..


First Impressions of the CCP , felt GREAT in MY hand,. Picked it up to replace the Ruger LC9S Pro for EDC because of the grip. First 100 at the the range , was good , but I was surprised a bit on how "warm" it does get , at least for my grip. Functioned great.



I do hope the trigger will smooth out. The initial travel is good and smooth , but then there is about 1/4 inch of travel , just before it breaks , that feels like absolute garbage. I have never felt a trigger like that before. It's just that 1/4 inch of travel that I hope will clear up. Any thoughts are appreciated. (edit Additional info-) when it is field stripped and you pull the trigger , it pulls smoothly for the entire travel. But when reassembled , this is when you feel the 1/14 inch of garbage travel


I've searched other other trigger threads and have gotten some insight of issues , but haven't read anything for the 1/4 inch of junk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,221 Posts
There have been a number of threads regarding trigger work. Don't forget to look up in the FAQ section. Seems most removed the rear assembly from the frame so that the cylinder could be removed and polished. I don't have one of these so I've never worked on one. I have pulled the trigger on several and know what you mean. The front end, trigger and small plunger along with the trigger bar is pretty straight forward and you can place the safety on to disconnect the trigger/trigger bar from the cylinder. Pull should be smooth which tells you where the roughness isn't. The trigger bar does not have a lot of leverage when rotating the cylinder. More leverage...more trigger travel.

As the trigger bar rotates the cylinder the spring loaded sear and disconnector are moved by cams on the cylinder. Several folks have reported improvements and a smoother trigger by polishing the interface between these parts and the cylinder. Polishing is one thing....removing metal another. Don't remove any metal. Since this pistol is a bit dirty to fire due to the gas system I think I would lubricate the cylinder and bore that receives it with some dry, powdered moly. I have had good luck with this lubricant in other applications. It is slick, it is dry and won't collect debris like an oily lubricant would. I read that it actually provides a very thin layer that separates the metal to metal contact.

So that last 1/4" is where all the action is occurring. It seems Ekjung did some threads on this. Smoothing up the pull is one thing....having the pull remain smooth another and I think someone should give the moly a try. Dry....not moly mixed in a grease. Good luck....1917


Here is a utube video of a complete disassembly of an original CCP. Skip to 35 min if you want to see disassembly of the rear system housing which contains the cylinder, assorted springs, sear, etc. This poster moves a bit fast and whacks all over the place including not aligning his punches carefully but it does show how the pistol is put together. I did not listen to the audio portion. There is absolutely no reason to take some of the components apart unless you are doing a video just to do it or are replacing a broken part. e.g. Two pins hold the rear counter plate in position....why remove it? Nothing to be seen with its removal....but, his pistol, his video and it seems pretty thorough. I think Chandler provided this link a couple of years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Welcome to the forum.

I’ve owned (and sold) both the LC9s and original CCP. Nice trigger on the LC9s. I went the gunsmithing route on the original CCP to smooth the pull. Some others users sent the CCP back to Walther for work.

I just brought home a new CCP M2 yesterday. Trigger is smooth for all cases except a bit uneven on a slow pull with striker cocked. Measured the pull at around 5 to 5.5 lbs. Smoothness during slow trigger pull started improving after fresh lube and 100 dummy rounds … so think I’ll skip the gunsmithing with this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
further insight on trigger travel

Thanks for the answers.... Just some further info.. When the gun is field stripped and you pull on the trigger mechanism ,it runs smoothly. BUT when you reassemble it and dry fire ,when the striker is set and ready to fire , this is when it gets the 1/4 inch of garbage travel..... but it is ONLY when the striker is cocked and ready to fire. You can actually pull and release the trigger, back and forth within that 1/4 inch of travel area
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
...when the striker is set and ready to fire , this is when it gets the 1/4 inch of garbage travel..... but it is ONLY when the striker is cocked and ready to fire...
When the trigger is pulled with a cocked striker, there is the additional pressure from the sear rotating down against the striker hook and striker pushing against an already compressed striker spring. Although I think the CCP is considered a fully cocked striker system, there appears to be some small additional compression of the striker spring during this time. With the M2 you can see this by watching the red cocking indicator.

These additional movements and pressures are probably exposing some roughness in parts that are not observed otherwise.

Maybe give it some time to smooth out with use? If not you could try calling Walther customer support.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,221 Posts
So what would cause that? When you pull the trigger the sear and disconnect are rotated. Does the downward rotation/movement of the sear press the striker hook rearward? That is the only thing I think of that would move the striker rearward as the trigger is pulled. An aggressive, positive engagement angle between the sear and hook on a hammer gun does the same thing. Rotates the hammer rearward just a bit. Safe engagement....not necessarily the best trigger.

The firing pin block being pressed up and out of the way of the soon to be released striker would not appear to move the striker rearward nor drag on it.

So the trigger bar is rotating the cylinder which is engaging the sear and disconnect. Yes, cocked increases the pressure between the sear and striker.

I don't know much about striker trigger jobs. Does anyone ever change the engagement geometry or is there too much slop in the movement of a striker to worry about it? 1917
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I was at my LGS range today and noticed they have the M2
So I asked to look at it
I tried dry firinga dozen times to see if any difference to the M1
I be honest here,I did not feel much difference
Maybe not as much travel but still feels like the M1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
...
So the trigger bar is rotating the cylinder which is engaging the sear and disconnect. Yes, cocked increases the pressure between the sear and striker.
...
I continued trying out this M2 a bit more but the unevenness during a slow trigger pull on a cocked striker was not showing any additional improvement.

Investigated a little...

The leading edge of the sear and the striker hook face are not bad but could be cleaned up a bit.

With the slide off, I simulated pressure on the sear by holding a punch down on the forward section of the sear part while pulling the trigger. Seems there is some binding going on between the cylinder and the sear (or somewhere) as they move under pressure.

Hmm, might have a gunsmithing opportunity after all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
It sounds like you have at least been able to replicate the symptoms I've described. Im not a gunsmith , but hopefully you'll be able to take this further and come up with a fix. From what I am able to "feel" with what I am referring to , it "feels" like it is plastic rubbing or binding together , as opposed to metal to metal. Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
It sounds like you have at least been able to replicate the symptoms I've described. Im not a gunsmith , but hopefully you'll be able to take this further and come up with a fix. From what I am able to "feel" with what I am referring to , it "feels" like it is plastic rubbing or binding together , as opposed to metal to metal. Thank you
Interesting about the plastic feel. I also thought it felt a bit strange... was thinking it was from the coating (NP3 or similar) they put on some of the trigger group parts. I'll try some things and see what happens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
definitely NOT anything like NP3. I deal A LOT with ROBAR and their NP3. All my Ar's are fully NP3'ed,along wityh some trigger groups on a few handguns, remarkable finish. I will give my trigger some time , or hope Forum members figure something out. Otherwise I would consider taking it to RoBAR and having their smiths take a look, Thanks Everyone
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
Right, probably no Robar in Germany, was using the term NP3 in a generic sense. That would be really interesting if you had Robar work on the pistol.

Here is what I did to get the trigger pull good enough for my use:

- Disassembled trigger. Removed plastic flashing from area around the trigger bolt channel. Reassembled trigger.

- Disassembled sear, stoned leading edge contact with striker hook and polished. Did similar for sear contact with cylinder. Reassembled sear.

- Removed striker assembly from slide, polished face of striker hook and returned to slide.

- With slide off, worked trigger with simulated load on sear.

- Lubed metal contact points.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Wish I was able to do it myself , but its not in my wheelhouse. Haven't heard of anyone in the Phoenix Arizona area that is familiar enough with the problem to try and give a fix attempt. Maybe I will pass along your ideas to the smith at ROBAR
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,426 Posts
Wish I was able to do it myself , but its not in my wheelhouse. Haven't heard of anyone in the Phoenix Arizona area that is familiar enough with the problem to try and give a fix attempt. Maybe I will pass along your ideas to the smith at ROBAR

Suggest you give Carl (owner) a call and discuss trigger work for the CCP. He has a shop co-located with C2 Tactical in Tempe just east of I-10 and north of Warner Rd.

The Trigger Guy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
FYI, just noticed this on my CCP M2 and fixed:

Striker channel was a bit rough in the area where the striker sits when cocked. (Potential for back edge of striker body to catch on rough spot as sear pushes back on striker hook when trigger is pulled).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,221 Posts
It is likely the flattened areas on the cylinder have a sharp working edge....the edge that presses the sear/disconnect up as the part rotates. I would polish the working edge....polish only and perhaps very, very slightly radius the edge. I would make sure the engagement surface of the sear/disconnect were also very smooth.

If the striker does not fit with precision in the striker channel.....and I don't think it does....how about a bit of buffing on the inner surface to smooth it up where it might be backing up a bit as the sear rotates. Or, if there is a sharp edge on the striker that is catching in machining marks....perhaps that edge can be relieved just a bit.

Or, someone could order a new sear or two and a couple of new strikers and begin to experiment with engagement. A large drawing of the sear can show how it moves when rotating...if you have accurate measurements. 1917
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
218 Posts
I wouldn’t do anything until you’ve put a few hundred rounds through your ccp. Mine started out kind of gritty, like you could feel the mechanisms moving. After a few trips to the range and lubing the trigger parts it’s now very smooth. Not as good as my ppq but better then my pps m2. At close to 2000 rounds if I’m careless I’ll get an unintentional follow up shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I have put 500 rounds thru it , but there was no change. TheTriggerGuy has it now to do some smoothing out of things. I will keep you posted.


Thank You Everyone
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
Top