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Discussion Starter #1
New here but been with firearms for about 62 years or so. I'm looking at getting a new P22 QD. I had an old P22 that was of the Smith/Walther variety with the side lock. The only problem I ever had was the floppy safety when fired. A trip back to Smith/Walther solved that. I had no problems after that. I liked the P22 but I really did not like the reassembly with the loose recoil spring and the needed rod to assemble the slide to the grip. I sold it a couple of years ago to get something else.


The new P22 QD has removed the stupid side lock, used a captured recoil spring, added a decocker, added two more rail slots and improved the safety/fire markings.





So, what should I expect from a new P22 QD? Should I watch for extractor issues? I will shoot the pistol for a while to break it in.


Thoughts?
 

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You will like the captured recoil spring. I added one to my P22Q, and it makes it a lot easier. You’ve had one before so you know they do need breaking in, or at least I think so. Still has a few places on the frame that rub with the slide that need to be worn down. I broke in my Q by removing the recoil spring and racking the slide a few hundred times while watching TV. I think I’ve had a total of three firing issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Wildtoad. I also forgot to mention the thicker slide for better crack resistance. I'm a light shooter. I get to the range about 5 or 6 times and shoot a couple of hundred rounds each time. So, depending how it shoots, I'll just consider replacing the extractor, if needed, and using dry moly or lube on the slide rails with an o-ring on the recoils spring (I've been reading. Thanks for the info.).



I liked the old P22 for how it fit my hands and shot. It's a fun pistol.
 

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https://www.waltherforums.com/forum/p22/89993-p22-qd-assessment-pictures-measurements.html

My 2 cents regarding the new QD. The decocking internal lever brings the QD in align with other, older PP pistols but I'm not sure I like it. Part of it is I'm not used to it and the other is I cannot manually cock the hammer with the safety set to the safe position. On the other hand it was apparently necessary to substantially lower the hammer hook height in order for this decocker to work and this I find is a good thing. No creep as the sear has to move a much shorter distance to release the hammer. Similar to the sear/hammer work I've been doing for years.

There is one peculiar issue regarding a slight change to the extractor cut at the chamber. My extractor works but some have reported that theirs didn't. Would not grab the rim of a chambered round for manual extraction. Ejection direction on mine was a return to the inconsistence of the earlier models.. I called VQ and suggested they take a look at this since their extractor might not fit the new extractor cut properly either. I sent them the original ideas on what needed to be done and they made some extractors for the pistol. There is a thread on this. The extraction problem isn't really an issue to me but consistent ejection of hot cases is. The pistol ran 100% right out of the box with exception of cleaning the chamber and barrel before shooting. The pistol still like snappy ammo.....CCI Mini Mags and Remington Golden Bullets work fine.

Welcome to Walther Forum Mark. 1917
 

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I've got a few posts up on my recent experience with a p22qd. I had a struggle with the extractor doing manual extraction. I think the extractor cut on mine for some reason wasn't cut in deep enough. Test yours with a few loaded mags. Rack the slide and see if all the rounds come out easily. Pay particular attention to the last round - does it snap out like the rest (good) or does it just kind of fall out (bad). I found the factory installed extractor worked just as well or better than a replacement Volquartsen (sp?) extractor. I had to do major filing work to sharpen the Volquartsen extractor to make it work as well or SLIGHTLY better than the factory extractor.

I do recommend you file off any roughness or ridges on the hammer. This is not a MAJOR issue with the newer models but it doesn't hurt anything. Just be sure to take off VERY LITTLE metal and polish it.

Doesn't hurt to polish the feed ramp also.

I've tried using Hoppe's oil, DRI-LUBE, and Moly spray on various parts of the slide that rub together. I didn't really notice much with the Moly spray and based on my experience do NOT try to fire Moly sprayed cartridges - it will make your P22QD a jam-o-matic. DRI-LUBE works well in my experience. Maybe even spray a little around the tops of your magazines. Hoppe's and Remington oil work fine for me now. It's simpler. I carry a small bottle of oil with me to the range along with some qtip like swabs. After a hundred to a hundred fifty rounds I break it apart and do a quick swab on the feed ramp and chamber. Just takes a minute and seems to help a bit. 22 rounds are dirty and even after just a hundred rounds a swab comes out black.

Use good ammunition. My recommendations in order (best to worst)
CCI Mini Mags (36 gr HP or 40 gr solid work fine) (7.5 cents a round at Wal-Mart)
Aquila Super Extra 40 gr. (5 cents a round at Academy)
Federal Champion 36 gr HP for bulk rounds. Wal-Mart sells both 525 round Champion boxes and a red 550 round value pack which I believe is the same as a Champion round only its a couple bucks cheaper. (3.9 cents a round at Wal-Mart)
Remington Golden Bullets - Had a box that jammed just a little too often, had another box that was trouble free. Jury still out on this round.

Academy.com has decent prices on the above and will deliver to your door for free on orders over $25.

Good luck! After some work on mine I finally got it working pretty good. I'm now just as happy to fire my P22QD as I am to shoot my wife's Ruger SR22.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, Guys. Very good advice and info. I'll do a good initial cleaning and check it with all your good info for a start. I just ordered through Davidson's Gun Genie for a fair price. The advantage is the Davidson's lifetime warranty. If it breaks or goes bad they will replace the pistol with a new one. I don't expect to use it but I have it, if needed.
 

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A couple of things. I use moly....but it seems to get lost in the translation that what I'm recommending is dry.....dry....dry powdered moly. Not a spray on. The spray on stuff has a carrier that is sticky and does not work well. KG sells dry powdered moly in a gun grade. A tiny amt. will last forever.

Next, all Walther firearms come with a lifetime warranty from the factory....unless you go modifying something and ruin the part.

KYGunco has the P22 on sale for $225 new with the silver slide. No tax, free shipping but you will need to pay a local ffl shop $20 for the paperwork. 1917
 

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2003 model. That is an old one. Did your magazines have stagger slots on them and was the trigger bar stamped steel. The very early ones had a mim'd trigger bar with nicely rounded ears. Crete's is the only one I've ever seen a picture of with the early ears. Mark, how does the chamber look at the extractor cut. In years past the metal at the end of the cut was very thin at the chamber. On my QD, the thin metal had been machined off leaving a recessed but thicker edge at the rear of the cut. This seems to be causing a problem for some folks. Mine works but the extractor only reaches in about 1/2 the width of the the rim. So it grabs....but barely. Extraction when firing is by blowback gasses...not the extractor. 1917
 

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BTW, you can install the new captive spring on your old P22 if you drill the guide rod hole out slightly to 1/4". You will not be able to use the old recoil spring assembly again with the larger hole. There is a thread here on that. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
2003 model. That is an old one. Did your magazines have stagger slots on them and was the trigger bar stamped steel. The very early ones had a mim'd trigger bar with nicely rounded ears. Crete's is the only one I've ever seen a picture of with the early ears. Mark, how does the chamber look at the extractor cut. In years past the metal at the end of the cut was very thin at the chamber. On my QD, the thin metal had been machined off leaving a recessed but thicker edge at the rear of the cut. This seems to be causing a problem for some folks. Mine works but the extractor only reaches in about 1/2 the width of the the rim. So it grabs....but barely. Extraction when firing is by blowback gasses...not the extractor. 1917

I sold the P22 in 2017. I don't remember about the internals but here is a photo of the mag, and other stuff. I'm alright with my Gun Genie order. The transfer here is $30 for the FFL I use.
 

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Those are A suffix blued model magazines and should work fine. The originals did not have the cut for rim stagger and in about 2006 Walther made some short slot models. Neither fed properly and were shortly replaced. In my opinion the original model P22 is 97% the same as the new QD. New QD gets thicker PPQ style slide, captive recoil spring assembly, decocking lever and a small pin on the left side of the frame half to help better retain the slide catch arm spring. Some have a bit better stamped trigger bar ears and of course the internal parts for the trigger block no longer come installed in the pistol.

I wonder what an aluminum slide would add to the cost? And a new hammer spring design, and a new captive breech face design/extractor that would solve ejection direction permanently. And while we are at it....a more substantial rear sight and the ability to add a small red dot. 1917
 

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Well, I'm going to try some dry Moly.
Next question is proper application.
Is it best to:
1. Put it on dry - no oil.
2. Put a light sheen of oil and dust some over that.
3. Dust some Moly on dry then add a little oil.

Although I've switched back to just using Hoppe's or Remington oil, I have had some good luck with Hoppe's DRI-LUBE (might be teflon based? Not sure.)
I used DRI-LUBE by itself to good effect. Then I added a bit of Hoppe's oil when it seemed to be wearing off - also to good effect.

Edit: Also wondering about Hoppe's Elite Oil T3. It has some Moly and PTFE mixed in. Interesting. I ordered a small bottle just to give it a try. I'm just having fun tinkering with the gun, trying different lube, and testing different brands of ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I should pick up the new P2 QD on Friday (maybe Monday). I'll take some photos of the different parts of the P22 after I get it. I already have two o-rings and have ordered some moly (dry) and a thread adapter. I have some micro brushes that I can use to apply the moly. I'm also having a new roof installed on my house Friday and Saturday. I'll be fine if I don't have a coronary event from the cost.


I've been reading some of the threads and I want to thank 1917-1911M. You have a bunch of info rattling around in your head. It's been very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I noticed that the Walther web site shows the P22Q manual with a 2014 date on the last page. The reassembly on page 24 shows the old, non-captured recoil spring and there is no mention of the decocker function.


Is this the manual that comes with the new P22 QD pistols or does the supplied P22 QD manual show the captured recoil spring and list the decocker?
 

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The dry moly is an excellent "sliding" friction reducer and lubricant. It has an affinity for metal meaning a very thin layer is easily applied...however, you can not build it up so don't bother trying. I use Gunscrubber, air, Rem Rem Oil, air to clean my P22s. Then I apply the moly by dabbing a clean Q Tip in some of it and rubbing the top and bottom of the frame rails. Top and bottom of the slide grooves. These two areas are the most important for reducing wear. I also rub some on the bottom of the breech block rail and the rear where the hammer face slides back and forth. Usually I pull back on the hammer a bit and rub a tiny amt on the hook and sear engagement surfaces. If I'm really in the mood I will rub a bit on the barrel sleeve. There really aren't any other places that need lubricating. The stuff doesn't prevent rusting but I don't have any problems with the largely polymer and zinc alloy pistol anyway.

One of the main benefits of this in my opinion other than being a slick lubricant is that it apparently sets up a surface coating that does not let the zinc rails on the frame touch the slide grooves. The moly maintains a buffer between the two surfaces. The stuff looks like dry graphite, goes on as you might imagine graphite does but it does not attract moisture like graphite does. I have been using 1/2 of a film canister for over 12 years. Dip a Q Tip in it, tap the Tip on the edge of the canister to dislodge the excess and then rub the material where needed. I usually dip the Tip in three or four times as I go along but am really using only a very tiny amt of moly. Since it is dry....dirt and debris doesn't stick to it like oil.

Way back I attached a pull gauge to the slide and measured the pull required to move the slide (bottom of breech block across the hammer) with the recoil spring removed. Only one product had a slightly lower pull than the moly. I don't remember what it was. Some of the oils and gun greases did poorly. They didn't provide much slippery lube at all. I first began using this stuff on a brand new P22 after measuring all critical dimensions of parts that wear....particularly the rear of the frame rails and bottom of the front slide groove. When the slide is retracted during firing only about 1/8" of rail to groove is engaged....while the hammer is still pressing up with full force on the slide trying to lift it. The moly stopped all wear here as indicated by my last micrometer measurements at 27,000 rounds.

I have included new firearm dimensions in the P22Q and P22QD assessments. My first P22 was worn out by 4,000 rounds with oil and grease. By doctoring on it I got it to 8,000 rounds and then traded it on a Ruger. We discussed all of this quite a bit back in about 2005 at RimFireCentral. The moly stopped all but finish wear to the new pistol I purchased and dubbed the "test pistol". The frame broke at 27,000 rounds (yes I was keeping count) and Walther sent me a new pistol. Crete broke a frame at exactly the same spot mine broke. That is the only two I've ever seen that cracked the frame. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you for the moly procedure. Extremely useful.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I picked up my P22 yesterday. It's a "BJ" 2018 model. I haven't fired it yet. The double action is stiff, my hands are weak. Here are some photos. I use some yellow wall anchors as snap caps for the rimfire firing pin. The P22 ejects the anchor every time.
 

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