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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all!

I got my first Walther today. I took it apart to look at the innards and I found a very thin coating of powder residue on the gas piston, barrel and chamber. There was also residue on the followers of both mags. Is this the result of factory test firing or did I actually buy a used gun?

I look forward to trying it out once the ranges open up again.
 

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Welcome to the forum. It is a best practice to field strip, clean and lube your new pistol before heading out for your first range session.
 

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"New" CCP Arrives Dirty?

I purchased my CCP M2 from a guy that told me he didn’t clean the gun after running 50 rounds through it....however breaking down the gun, it appeared like there had been more like 400-500 rounds fired with a great deal of "powder caking" on the gas piston....I clean this gun after each use and have discovered this is simply the nature of the beast though. Because of its design, it has the propensity for residue buildup...due to the discharge gasses passing through that area of the gun and the heat baking the powder in place you just get the buildup....

Clean and oil the gun after each trip to the range and it will serve you well....


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the info!

Yeah, I'm not an expert, but the amount of residue couldn't have been more than 5 or 10 rounds, so the test firing explanation makes sense.
 

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... it appeared like there had been more like 400-500 rounds fired with a great deal of "powder caking" on the gas piston....due to the discharge gasses passing through that area of the gun and the heat baking the powder in place you just get the buildup....

Clean and oil the gun after each trip to the range and it will serve you well....


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Best to avoid fluid lubricants on the piston and cylinder. Fluid lube attracts googus. I use a dry Teflon (PTFE) there and in all the other hot spots. Some folks run with dry piston/cylinder. You'll notice the difference.
 

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"New" CCP Arrives Dirty?

Best to avoid fluid lubricants on the piston and cylinder. Fluid lube attracts googus. I use a dry Teflon (PTFE) there and in all the other hot spots. Some folks run with dry piston/cylinder. You'll notice the difference.


I should have probably mentioned I never lube the piston as it does not really "touch" another metal surface...and you are correct in saying that the lube at that point would only attract goop....basically, the only point of lubrication should be a little on the slide rail area....additionally, I use a synthetic lube/cleaner (LOCK "N" LOAD GCL)...best stuff I’ve ever seen with a citrus smell that my wife tolerates MUCH better than Hopps or petroleum based products....the little 2 oz bottle probably lasted me more than a year as you don’t need much...just a few drops on the rail after cleaning....you can find the product online from a guy in South Carolina...
 

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...the only point of lubrication should be a little on the slide rail area...
There are no rails on my Gen 1 CCP nor on the CCP M2, I suspect. The barrel performs the "rail" function with an assist from the piston in the cylinder and the counter plate. The barrel and slide for that reason start off pretty tight and the pistol has to get used to itself. Starting off with heavier projectiles helps to break it in. I used 124 Gr or 147 Gr to help that happen.
 

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There are no rails on my Gen 1 CCP nor on the CCP M2, I suspect. The barrel performs the "rail" function with an assist from the piston in the cylinder and the counter plate. The barrel and slide for that reason start off pretty tight and the pistol has to get used to itself. Starting off with heavier projectiles helps to break it in. I used 124 Gr or 147 Gr to help that happen.
Yes, once again you are correct (blush) I should have broken down my CCP before I commented but was thinking it had a couple “guide tabs” the slide rides on but that’s another of the dozen pieces of hardware I have (shrug)...had not thought about using heavier loads for break-in but will save that for future reference....bottom line with my M2 though, it has performed flawlessly for the first 500-600 rounds and I’m liking it better with the TruGlo nite sights I installed....


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...bottom line with my M2 though, it has performed flawlessly for the first 500-600 rounds and I’m liking it better with the TruGlo nite sights I installed....


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I was wondering about the M2. The one thing I dislike about the M1 is its disassembly/assembly. I have to do it in a clear plastic bag so the springy thingies can be found after I've twisted or pushed the latch clumsily. :rolleyes:
 

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I was wondering about the M2. The one thing I dislike about the M1 is its disassembly/assembly. I have to do it in a clear plastic bag so the springy thingies can be found after I've twisted or pushed the latch clumsily. :rolleyes:
I bought the M2 primarily because I thought the disassembly tool was too easy to lose...and my only complaint is that silly “donut” at the end of the striker spring (I believe that’s what it is)...I always hold the gun over the tabletop or counter when dis/re assembling...that seems the easiest piece to lose...


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