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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my new CCP M2 yesterday. I’m hoping to get it to the range tomorrow or early next week. I have another Walther as well, a PPK/S, nice pistol. I’ve been reading many of the posts here with great interest, I’m hoping there are no glitches with the M2 when I get it to the range. First impression though, I really like how it feels in these older hands. The slide is easier to rack than my G42 as well. The guy (a Walther dealer) I purchased it from took it apart yesterday (I let him, he’s also a gunsmith) the stopper on the back flew across the room! Too funny. But, he commented on how much easier it was to take down and reassemble than the first model. I’ll comment later after I’ve had it to the range and cleaned it myself.
 

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Picture from the Walther FB page. With the new M2 locking catch, thought that could not happen without removing the trigger group housing from the frame? But maybe you are right, I have not seen one up close yet.

 

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I'm hoping the locking catch cannot fly off with routine field stripping. Make sure the pistol is empty and pull the trigger....the striker spring needs to be extended before releasing the catch. I've been wondering how the catch works and how beefy the catch mechanism is. I've also been wondering if the release mechanism can be operated with the striker spring fully compressed....i.e., striker cocked. Perhaps we will get a good, sharp, well lit photo series soon of how all this fits.. 1917



I lightened and cropped the above picture. It seems there is a sliding lock under the rear catch. I note Bret presses in on the rear of the catch before sliding the release to the right. Similar to not releasing the slide by the catch due to possible wear issues. I notice other videos show the part simply being slid to the right...nothing pressed in. I'm wondering if the part can be released with the striker spring compressed. Anyway, hope the photo shows some of the details a bit better. It still seems the disconnector has been lengthened so that the firing pin block won't whack into the rail on the right side of the rear system housing as hard. Considerable swaging of the metal was previously seen there.

The OP must mean the rear thing on the striker spring. If the new part that replaces the counter plate flew out...I'd venture something is broken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, Walther calls it a “tab”. Works for me. I took it apart and put it back together this morning, no issues. I did go shoot it at the range, I like it. No more recoil than my G42. The slide did not lock after the last round was fired, and I’ve seen a video of someone else shooting and it did the same thing. I’m probably going to have to adjust my grip a little. I was shooting 115 grain FMJ rounds, so I don’t think that was the issue. I’m going to have to go back though as my aim was way off. I’m used to shooting a .22 at 10 to 15 feet for plinking, can’t do that with this pistol. I was told to move my target out to 30 feet, and it would be more accurate. So, I’ll go out again next week and try once more...life’s tough. :cool:
 

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A common shooting distance is 7 yds - 21'. Not many of us get more accurate at greater distances, the pistol certainly doesn't. :) Cept OldFart....says his groups get better at a hundred yards....but he is mistaking one round on paper for a group....just sayin'. :cool: Your sights may be set up point of aim at point of impact at a greater distance than 15' though. It's not really that the pistol gets any more accurate. Kind of like shooting an AR with the sights perched 3" to 5" above the bore.....up close the rounds will hit 3"+ below point of aim.

All semi auto pistols require a firm grip and locked wrist....so, make sure you have that covered. The not locking back part sounds familiar to the original but you need to do a little firing to break it in possibly....while P99s and PPQs run 100% right out of the box. Keep us posted....eye protection when shooting and field stripping. Sure is a nice looking pistol. 1917
 
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