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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought that I wanted a ppk/s in stainless for several reasons. Easier to hold,newer version has a larger beaver tail, etc.

I was thinking for pocket carry.

Today I ran across a LNIBn Interarms in Blue. Basically looks new with 4 mags. Two are Walther, one with the pinky extension one flat- although it is silver on the base not blue. Two non walther with the extensions and a set of wood gripsn not real pretty- kind of wide, as well as the factory grips. Plastic box and manual.

They are asking 399. With 10 percent off this week.

It really feels smaller than what I thought I wanted. I was looking at the Bersa thunder and cc as wellm

Should I pass this up and keep looking or is this too good to pass on. I am not really sure if I wanted blue in a Walther, but I thinkb it may grow on me. The lack of Beavertail kind of scares me. I have not fired one of these and would not have a chance to before buying itm They will only hold it until tomorrow.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I need an answer quickly

Sorry if this repeated.

I thought that I wanted a stainless ppk/s for several reasons. Larger beavertai, larger grip,etc.

While looking today I ran across. A LNIB interarms ppk in blue. It looks to be brand new and comes with two Walther mags, one with a silver flat bottom and one with the extension. There are also two more non Walther mags with extensions. Plastic box and a set of wooden, not so pretty, grips as well as the factory grips and manual.

They are asking 399.00 with 10 percent off this week.

I am concerned about the "bite" and small grip.

Should I pass and keep looking or is this too good to pass on. I have also looked at the Bersa and Bersa CC. I am thinking about pocket carry. I have never fired a 380 ,d will nit be able to. They will only hold it for me until tomorrow.

Thanks
 

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You should pass on it. Just let me know where it is located and I will eliminate any temptation on your part to buy it.:)

In all seriousness, that's a great deal. You can always sell it if you aren't happy with it.
 

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The FFL dealer in my area wants $499 for a LNIB Interarms blue PPK. So the price is pretty good, all things being equal. If you are going to use it as your primary carry gun, I would highly recommend shooting it first -- to make sure that you like the feel of it and would trust your life to it. Note, too, that if this is to be your primary weapon, you'll want to shoot it often -- to get comfortable with its reliability, to ensure that it handles whatever rounds you plan to use, etc. If the size of the tang is something that you are concerned about/thinking about (because of the reported bite of the PPK series), that's all the more reason to give the thing a try ahead of time -- no need to rush into a so-called good buy. Lastly, if you are going to use this as your primary carry weapon, keep in mind that stainless wears better than blue in the holster. Good luck.
 

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If it were me, I'd jump on it in a heartbeat. I love my Interarms, and wouldn't hesitate at the chance to get another one.

:D
 

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I agree.... take it
also keep in mind that the blue PPK/S from Interarms are much harder to come by than the SS ones.
I would take it just for the fact it is a blued version not to mention the great price
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I forgot to mention, the only thing that I saw was that the red safety dot was not on the gun. The outline for one was in the metal but it looks lijke nothing was ever there, it was totally clen.

Should I be concerned or just buy it and paint one on?

Is the blued model supposed to have the red dot?
 

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It should have the red dot. It could be that it was simply missed, which is not very likely, or the gun may have been reblued.
 

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Michael,
I recently bought one at a gun show, excellent condition, no box papers, etc., for $500. The Interarms guns are usually viewed as somewhat better than the currently produced S&Ws. You could also hold out and watch online for a German manufacture PPK/S "shooter". They are around in the same price range, and would probably be the most reliable of the choices. Boils down to your decision, good luck!
Crraig
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
how would I know if the gun had been reblued? Are there any specific thinks to look for?

One Walther mag had the extension the other had a silver bottom plate. am guessing that the plate wasdamaged, lost, mag lost and replaced, etc. Possibly they only came with one mag new. I have no idea.
 

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The red dot is nothing more than paint and something like solvent or gun scrubber can remove it.

Overall the original finish was polished but a tad on the dull side, all edges flat and sharp. The best place to look for a reblue is the lettering on the slide. It should be crisp and clear - no "blurring" or distorted letters. Look around the pistol for any pitting that hasn't been polished out, possibly in the slide serrations.

Above all ask the seller, he knows - because that would greatly affect how much he would have paid for it!!! If he gets hesitant or says he doesn't know - pass on the piece!

Ask if you can take a photo and post them here. A practiced eye can spot a reblue in a heart beat, unless it is very very good - and that is not the norm at all.

Good luck!!!
 

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Ask the seller if the PPK/S has a serial prefix
I am not 100% sure if it's the same on the PPK/S but on the PPK they had a "A" prefix for SS in .380, a "B" prefix for the SS .32 and a "K" prefix for .380 in blued finish.
 

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My red dots have never come out, but I've seen some that people soaked with cleaning solvent and used a harsh brush on that dissolved the paint. Since the red dot has a recessed indentation in the metal, it is very easy to paint back on with a $3 investment in red model paint and a Testors model paint brush.

But the darn gun! It's a great price, specially with all those mags. Sell the extra grips on GunBroker if you don't like them and you'll probably save another $25+ on the gun.

Remember that Walther has been making the PP series since 1929. That's just shy of 80 years. It is regarded as one of the greatest pistol designs of all time. Relax about the slide bite. Just buy the gun and shoot it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well the blued PPK came home with me tonite.

I am not sure about it but I am going to give it a try, probably not until next week though. I need to register it first and then get the time to clean and lube it first.

It had the original plastic box, manual, and plastic cleaning rod as well as the factory target in it.

Any suggestions on what to clean with and lube with and where? The manual is rather vague. They told me that I can clwean the outside with Flitz, I have never used it . Is it OK on a blued gun?

I just need to get a red dot on it now.

What do I feed this. The manual states 95 gr. FMJ. Any specific recommendations?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Flitz!!! On a blued pistol - Only if you want the bluing removed!!!!!! :eek:

Rubbed on liberally it can be real agressive...look out!!! :(

Better to get some "micro fiber" towels or old terry cloth and a little break free and then massage your pistol!!! :cool:

How about a picture - before the rub down? ;)



P.S. Is there a fine for too many smilies in one post?

P.P.S. (no pun) Yes, no more than 4 smilies!
 

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OK I am confused now..
is it a PPK or a PPK/S
if it is a PPK all you need to do is look a few posts up and look at the serial prefix I posted to see what the finish of your PPK should look like....
I would love to see pics ... there are never enough pics of blued versions
 

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You got a original blued PPK
I would not use Flitz at all.. this might work great on SS guns but not at all on blued guns.... it might be that the red dot just fell out..... congrats on this sweet deal you did great
 

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michaelpri: HOORAY FOR YOU! Congrats on becoming an official Walther owner!!!!!

Go to Wal-Mart, K-Mart, Bass Pro, Gander Mountain, anywhere that sells gun cleaning kits, bore brushes, patches, solvents, etc.

Buy yourself a Hoppes, Outers or other brand .38 caliber handgun cleaning kit. It should come with a cleaning handle with a rotating knob or t-shaped handle on one end. You can then attach a patch holder, jag, or .38 caliber bronze bore cleaning brush to the threaded end. The kit should also come with solvent and oil. Buy a silicone gun cleaning rag or two.

I recommend an old toothbrush (just plain bristles), a Testors model paint brush for applying drops of oil, and a wooden or plastic "nail stick" (available in the women's nail aisles).

Field strip the slide off the gun and pull the recoil spring off the barrel, being sure you see which end goes back on. Rub the solvent all over the gun using a patch. Run a solvent wetted patch down the barrel. Use the bore brush on the barrel, being careful to run it from the breech end, OUT the muzzle and bring it back again. NEVER stop halfway down the barrel and move the brush back and forth. It MUST come completely out both ends of the barrel so that the bristles twist down the bore and clean the lands and grooves properly. Stopping halfway and "scrubbing" only ruins the $1.25 brush. One brush should last you for years. Put wet and dry patchs down the bore until they come out clean.

Dry the whole gun in and out with a patch. Use the nail stick with a patch wrapped around it to clean inside the slide and frame rails. And anywhere else it's hard to reach. The nail stick allows you to use pressure to clean in the rear face of the breech too. Be sure to get any and all crud out from the extractor area.

Use the Testors model paint brush to put one drop of oil spread evenly on each frame rail (slide and frame). Spread one drop evenly around the circumference of the barrel (probably shows some slight silver wear) where it rubs the inside of the slide's muzzle. You want this slightly lubricated. Put a half drop on the face of the hammer where it rubs to get cocked when the slide works back and forth.

If you take the grips off to clean under them, be very careful not to dislodge any of the wire springs. Go easy here. One you've cleaned under the grips, you shouldn't really have to do it again for a few years.

Wipe the gun down with your silicone rag to protect it. If you're going to store the gun for any period of time (loaded in your bedroom or put away in a gun safe or whatever), I recommend applying gun oil to your second silicone rag and wiping the blued outer surfaces with the gun oil to lightly coat it. This will protect it for along time, but wipe it down if you handle it again.

You're going to like you Walther alot. I think you made a very smart move buying the PPK. Good price it sounds like too. I think you should pick up a couple boxes of Full Metal Jacket ammo (inexpensive) to get used to the gun and to see how it shoots. Then you can take a box of 50 hollowpoints and be sure they function in the gun/magazines. Then load her up and be all set!

-Steve
 

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All right, all you sons of seagulls -- it's all your fault. All this talk about the quality of the Interarms PPK/S forced me -- absolutely forced me -- to head on down to the local gunshop this afternoon and make a deal on the NIB .380 blued model that has been calling my name for some months now. Thanks a bunch!
 
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