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Hello All,

This is my first post on these forums, and I'm looking forward to learning a lot about the P99. I thought I would post this question on here, because I can't seem to find any hard details on my P99.
I just picked it up yesterday, and its chambered in .40 S&W. There is the eagle over "N" on the right side near the rear and on the barrel under the Walther banner. Serial range is 412***. The only letters to determine date are on the frame on the right side where it has eagle over "N" next to AB (Which is '01 I think) then with some antlers.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/32ctx6a4vqdvatb/p99 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/26n2380o7j1sxcl/p99 2.jpg?dl=0

My main question is what type of P99 is it. He has an older "P99" logo on the slide and doesn't have the front cuts on the slide. I've attached two pictures.

Thanks for everyones help,
CJ
 

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Congratulations. My P99 is my favorite striker fired weapon and my Daily Carry most of the time. Yours is a Version 1 from 2001 based on the AB code on the weapon.
 

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That is a 1st generation model of the P99. The .40S&W model did not come with the "slide scallops" like the 9mm model, because both used the same recoil spring assembly, and the slide of the .40 model was made to be heavier.

What color is the end cap on the recoil spring assembly? If it is black, it is time to order the newer RSA with the blue end cap.

It looks like it has been carried a lot, and it looks like it was carried by a left handed person judging by the rust on the right side of the roll pin that holds the removable backstrap in place. Mine would get rust there from sweat after a few weeks if I carried in the summertime without putting a drop of lube on the roll pin every few weeks, so this pistol may be from a hot climate.

I'd suggest you put some lube on that (and every other) roll pin, and take some pictures of the internals.

I'd also like to know what kind of mags came with the pistol. Since this pistol was released during the assault weapon ban, it was shipped with 10rd mags. If you purchased it with 10rd mags, I'd suggest you check and make sure they have the light blue mag followers. The earlier 10rd .40 mags with the orange followers had issues with weak baseplates, and the 10rd .40 mags with the dark blue followers had issues with the slide locking back while there were still rounds in the mag. The 12rd mags were good to go, but if you have the 10rd mags, make sure they have the light blue follower.

Since this is an older model, I'd also suggest inspecting the sear housing to make sure it is not cracked in the area above where the trigger bar guide is. It was pretty rare, but not unheard of, that this area of the polymer sear housing could crack if the slide impacted it enough times or with enough force while reassembling the pistol after field stripping it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That is a 1st generation model of the P99. The .40S&W model did not come with the "slide scallops" like the 9mm model, because both used the same recoil spring assembly, and the slide of the .40 model was made to be heavier.

What color is the end cap on the recoil spring assembly? If it is black, it is time to order the newer RSA with the blue end cap.

It looks like it has been carried a lot, and it looks like it was carried by a left handed person judging by the rust on the right side of the roll pin that holds the removable backstrap in place. Mine would get rust there from sweat after a few weeks if I carried in the summertime without putting a drop of lube on the roll pin every few weeks, so this pistol may be from a hot climate.

I'd suggest you put some lube on that (and every other) roll pin, and take some pictures of the internals.

I'd also like to know what kind of mags came with the pistol. Since this pistol was released during the assault weapon ban, it was shipped with 10rd mags. If you purchased it with 10rd mags, I'd suggest you check and make sure they have the light blue mag followers. The earlier 10rd .40 mags with the orange followers had issues with weak baseplates, and the 10rd .40 mags with the dark blue followers had issues with the slide locking back while there were still rounds in the mag. The 12rd mags were good to go, but if you have the 10rd mags, make sure they have the light blue follower.

Since this is an older model, I'd also suggest inspecting the sear housing to make sure it is not cracked in the area above where the trigger bar guide is. It was pretty rare, but not unheard of, that this area of the polymer sear housing could crack if the slide impacted it enough times or with enough force while reassembling the pistol after field stripping it.
The recoil spring end cap is black, so I should replace that then?

I'm thinking about getting the slide redone in a Walther factory black color and doing the frame in OD Green, would the be period correct? Is there any good guides on who to strip the slide and frame?

Thanks for the information on the roll pins, I'll differently clean those out and out some Rem-Oil or other lub in there to keep it clean.

The Mag is a 10-round with the light blue follower, and it is made by MEC-
GAR on the left hand side with the Walther banner on the right.

I see no cracking near the trigger bar and housing or near that area.

Here some some pics attached.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/09lis32id7ws68x/20190718_223009.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yqadzb24j8p13j1/20190718_223003.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z7wb8958egwacrm/20190718_223028.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzs1xxscmn52gl9/20190718_223022.jpg?dl=0
 

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Sorry for the late reply. I've been out of town.

The recoil spring end cap is black, so I should replace that then?
Walther switched to the RSA with the blue end cap over 15 years ago, and I would assume that yours is the original that it came with from the factory. I would swap it out due to age, and also because the pistol is used and you don't know exactly how many rounds have been put through it.

The recoil spring assembly should be changed every 5k rounds according to a few armorers I've spoken to.

I'm thinking about getting the slide redone in a Walther factory black color and doing the frame in OD Green, would the be period correct? Is there any good guides on who to strip the slide and frame?
I've never changed the color of a firearm before, but I know there is no way to "strip" the frame of color. Walther made a P99 with an OD green frame years ago, but the polymer frame itself was green. It was not painted.

Thanks for the information on the roll pins, I'll differently clean those out and out some Rem-Oil or other lub in there to keep it clean.
One drop of CLP on the roll pins every few weeks was enough to keep my P99 rust free while carrying it in the summertime. The one to look out for the most is the roll pin that holds the backstrap in place, as the other roll pins tend to be covered by the holster.

If you plan on replacing the backstrap, I'd suggest punching out that pin from the left-to-right, so that the rusted area of the roll pin does not scratch the channel that the roll pin rides in. Personally, I'd order another roll pin and swap it out, keeping it lubed if the pistol is carried so that this doesn't happen again.

The Mag is a 10-round with the light blue follower, and it is made by MEC-
GAR on the left hand side with the Walther banner on the right.
Good that you got the mags with the light blue follower. The only reliable mags for these pistols are made by Mec-Gar. All of the factory mags for these pistols are made by them, whether they are marked "Mec-Gar" or not.

I see no cracking near the trigger bar and housing or near that area.
From the pictures, I don't either.

Just be careful when sliding the slide back on the frame during reassembly. Make sure not to slam the back of the slide into the sear housing. It was pretty rare for this to happen, but I've heard of it happening on the older sear housing design.

Here some some pics attached.
You have the older model slide release spring in that pistol.

Walther redesigned this spring in the later models to have a loop at the end because of issues where, while cleaning, people would run a rag up and down the magwell, the rag would catch on the end of the spring, and it would bend it out of shape. Either swap the spring, or just be careful while cleaning.

Looking at the pictures, it looks like it was carried a lot but I don't see much wear on the inside. Looking at the pictures on the first post, I don't see scratches on the side of the trigger, which tend to develop pretty quickly within the first few thousand rounds if your trigger finger puts any sideways pressure on the trigger when squeezing the trigger. My 1st gen P99 with over 14k rounds through it had plenty of them.

Personally, I would forget about painting the pistol for now until you put some rounds through it to make sure it is reliable, like you would do with any pistol. I would get some 12rd mags. I would replace the recoil spring assembly, and I would be careful not to bend the slide release spring while cleaning. After putting some rounds through it, if you decide to use this as a defensive pistol, I'd put some thought into changing the sights. I don't believe any polymer or any click adjustable sights belong on defensive pistols.

The .40 P99 is a good design. I used to own one back in the mid-2000's and it never gave me any trouble after putting thousands of various rounds through it.
 
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