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I had a bunch of these 'errors' yesterday, not sure of the exact term, FTL maybe? Magazines are loaded with 10 rounds, magazine inserted and the top round severely angles up thus preventing proper loading when the slides released. Also had a bunch of FTL where the 10th round and final wouldn't cycle. no problems with 'ejecting' When the guns works it works.....it cyclews as fast as i can pull the trigger which is fast, very fast.

Background info:
P22: Over 25K rounds but probably under 30K
Rounds: Mostly Mini-Mags and Stingers but a variety of other rounds as well
Slide: Broken somewhere around 20K rounds and replaced by Walther
Slide spring: Original
Magazines: 7 total. 5 'long slot' 2 'short slot'. Short slots have been 'retired'
Mods: full tuneup as per 'the bible'

So I decided to measure the 5 'long slot' mags, both lip width where the rounds are retained and spring length. I also made an attempt to measure spring strength.

1: .191" 4.09 .8lbs
2. .201" 4.00 .6lbs
3. .193" 4.10 .7lbs
4. .193" 4.10 .8lbs
5. .199" 3.95 .5"lbs

Mags 1, 3 and 4 are the tightest. Springs 1, 3 and 4 are longest and springs 1, 3 and 4 are strongest. Mags 1&5 are probably junk.
 

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Shouldn't do what is pictured above. Anything special about that ammo? Regardless the case dia should be similar to all .22 ammo. I'll measure some mag lip widths for you. Actually they are all back there somewhere in a thread...somewhere. Try squeezing on in a bit, enough so that the case can't fit between the lips as shown and test again. Walther thickened up the steep these are made of somewhere about 2007....the B suffix mags. 1917
 

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I'll check suffixes. I tested all my mags by loading 1 round, pulling down on the thumb 'button' until the round is at the bottom of the 'slot' then letting go of the 'button'. With certain mags the round can out completely and others it stove piped. Later today i'll load more pics. Needless to say, the loosest mags are getting retired. And yes, I've seen your measurements!!!
 

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Magazines aren't designed for that test either. At no time while firing does a round, bottom round or not, get slammed into the lips. Rounds move up only slightly as the breech rail moves rearward allowing the top round to move up perhaps 1/2 the width of a round and no more. I don't think mags are too picky regarding the width of the gap between the upper lips as long as rim is released at the proper time and the rounds can't slip up between the lips as shown above. I would squeeze the lips back together and I bet that cures the issue. 1917
 

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This is the only picture I have hosted. A newer mag vs the short slot ones that did not function properly. I note the lips on the short slot had a shorter distance between the front edge of the lips. As I recall, I widened one of them long after they were no longer produced and that made them work 100%. Those short slot mags caused all manner of feeding issues including letting a live round jump out of the pistol while the second round was chambered. Load ten, start shooting, slide locked open after seven shots. ??? Live rounds found on the ground. Properly functioning mags are important. I wouldn't throw them out. Probably under warranty as is the pistol. We need to measure the lips at a couple of exact points. 1917
View attachment 93140 View attachment 93140

I had a bunch of these 'errors' yesterday, not sure of the exact term, FTL maybe? Magazines are loaded with 10 rounds, magazine inserted and the top round severely angles up thus preventing proper loading when the slides released.
The way your rounds fit in the magazine as pictured doesn't look like any of mine. On mine the closest tolerance of the lips is at the front edge. Yours is wider and the case of the round is being stopped by the middle of the lips. So on mine the widest point is at the rear near the spline and the entire lip tapers to the smallest gap at the front edge. This prevents a round from doing what you have pictured. It appears that for some reason the front of the lips on your mag have been spread. I can put up a photo looking straight down on how a round looks sitting against the feed lips if it would help. Seems you might squeeze the front edge of the lips in a bit and they might feed properly. 1917
 

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Your mag lips seem tightest at the blue arrow. Mine are narrowest at the red arrow. They will not let a round stand up as yours is doing. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All mags were just double checked and there's a definitive taper down from ~.215 to .196. What your seeing may be an illusion. I ordered a .200" pin gage to use as 'go no go', I'll tweak all mags so they're identical @ .200"

I did a few things since my initial post:
1. Removed slide and deburred both the slide and frame. I'd done this years ago but it needed touching up.
2. Deburred mags. Using Harbor Freight jewelers files I cleaned up both the inside and outside of the lips, deburred both sides of the follower slot and de-burred the follower thumb thing. And I polished them with black rogue on the bench wheel.
3. Mini-mag ammo only but a mix....both 36g and 40g and hollow point and round nose
4. Used Blaster 'dry graphite' lube. PITA because its an aerosol so sprayed and dabbed. Small 'drip' bottles have been ordered. Also bought a Birchwood Casey MLP pen which I think will work great!!

What a difference. Got off 500 rounds today with only 4 issues, all FTL's. The original recoil spring has 27,500 rounds so that may've played a role....a Tandemkross is on the way. As I'm typing I checked the mag lips and they're mostly veery, very smooth now, a couple of small places need touching up.
 

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Don't forget you can get a genuine Walther captive recoil spring assembly. Very well made but you will have to drill out the existing guide rod hole slightly to 1/4". 27+K rounds....my kind of shooting. Oh for the day about 15 years ago when .22 ammo was just a hair over 1 cent per round.. I probably still have a couple of thousand of those and they still work fine....was checking the other day to see if they had the price on a bulk box. They didn't.

Jim, you might find those grocery store or drug store emery fingernail files really helpful. They are about 6" long, 3/4" wide and a bit padded in the middle. Very fine to coarse. Stick one of those in through the pull down button slot on a mag, run it up and down 6 or 8 times, flip it over to address the other underside edge, 8 more trips up and down and all of the sheared metal roughness will be gone. Use them to touch up any flashing on the follower too. I find them really helpful and they are inexpensive.

I started using "dry" powdered moly in about 2004 or 2005 after I wore out a P22. Gunsmith gave it to me, said an Army helicopter maintenance guy gave it to him. Seems he said the guy told him they lubed some of the cables with it. Bought a new P22, dubbed it the test pistol and after measuring all critical wear areas....specifically the slide grooves and frame rails....I began shooting. I'd measure everything at 500 to 1,000 round intervals. Nothing ever showed any measurable wear ( digital caliper ) but the frame cracked on the right side at appx 27K rounds and Walther sent me a new pistol for free. I also noticed since there was no oil on the pistol it stayed a lot cleaner.

I think you have just a bit of a mag problem and a little tweaking of the lips will have you running 100%. My mags will not allow a round to stand up like the one in your early picture. I'd have to force it, which is easy enough, but it would not do it while cycling manually or while firing. 1917
 

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How rounds sit against the lips in my P22 mags. The rear is held down a bit by the rim and the lips catch the case at the front edge. 1917
 
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