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I’ve converted (2) M2 mags to work in my M1.
You have to make a new hole for the magazine release.
Bust out the dremel and tiny files.
 

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Heard a guy on here had a fix? Search so far not working...Will the real Danny William's please stand up..
Well.....er'......yep, M2 mags can be modified to work in an M1. Just as GFB said, you've got to make a 'new' M1 latch hole in your M2 mag. I don't use a dremel, rather, I use a drill press and a jig to drill a small hole in the approximate location....meaning just an rch low. THEN, I use some tiny files to square the hole up...raising the top portion of the hole an rch, then insert the mag to see if its latching in. If it doesn't latch, I'll take another rch off the top of the hole and insert the mag again....keep doing that until it latches in. THEN it'll probably have the mag latched in a little high, so some careful eyeballing, checking standard mags, measuring, etc. and maybe take another rch off the top of your new hole.

The placement of the M1 hole is critical for more reasons than one. Most critical is the top edge, which will regulate the height at which the mag is held in the magwell. Then there's the vertical edge toward the front side of the mag....this side of the hole just needs to be adjusted far enough toward the center of the mag to allow the tip of the pointed latch mechanism to clear the side of the hole. The vertical sided of the hole (toward the side of the mag) is SUPER CRITICAL in that if this edge is too far toward the side, it'll allow the M2 match mechanism to hang up on the M1 hole.

I learned the hard way. :D Just make the M1 hole big enough to allow the tip of the pointed latch to stick thru....

I'd have to go take some a picture of a modified M2 mag, and I've already got this one uploaded....its a Sig P226 20 round mag. The mod is the same. Decide where the M1 hole needs to be, drill it then file it to proper shape/location.

In reference to this picture and as mentioned before. On the M1 hole, you can see the rounded bottom (where I initially drilled)...I then used my files to work the hole. The two green lines (top and front of mag) are critical in allowing the mag lever catch (point) to latch into the hole. The other side of the hole (the red line) is the area that, if you go too far around the side of the mag, the hole will catch on the M2 button mechanism. There's NO need to make this hole as large as the factory M1 hole. The factory hole is bigger than it needs to be.

File a little and check a often....

If you do it right, you'll have a modded M2 mag that will insert/drop perfectly in a M1 or M2....NO hangups or having to push the button twice to insert a modded mag in an M2.

Once again, file a little and check often.

 

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Found a picture of a Canik mag I'd added an M1 latch hole too. The lighting on this mag allows us to see the vertical line/mark made by the M2 latch mechaism as it slides up and down the mag....actually the mag is sliding past the catch. I hi-lighted this mark with a green line.....the mark is just below and parallel to the green line. THIS is why you've got to be careful how much you wrap the new M1 hole around toward the side of the mag.

 

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Walther should've hired you as a creative consultant, IAOF.


Instead of the two different types of mags, they could've had one that would've worked in both guns without issue, as well as P99s.

Walther, sometimes... :rolleyes::eek:
 
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