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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks,
Went to do a regular cleaning on my ppk/s .22 and when I went to field stip it as I have always done the darned slide would not lift from the frame. It feels seriously stuck however slides freely as it should horizontally. The thing just won't lift. I have done it just fine a hundred times, what is going on here?
- looski
 

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Not trying to be funny here. Are you certain the trigger guard is down all the way so that the slide can clear the block?
 

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I don't want 15 for piling on, but, like Geezer, lets look at the obvious stuff first.
-Trigger guard completely down? Stick a quarter under it to hold it in place.
-No resistance to slide movement? Let's back up half a step; let the trigger guard drop back into place, and then rack the slide; can you hear that distinct metallic 'click' when it reaches full travel, or does slide motion stop with a more mushy feel?
-If 'B', there may be a crud buildup on the barrel/recoil spring; soak the barrel up to the e-port in mineral spirits for a day or two, and then give it a try; blow it out with compressed air if you've got it.
The other piece of good news here is the .22 recoil spring; you don't have to be Ahrnuld to rack the slide...

How long since it's been really cleaned? Was the gun functioning normally when last you shot it?
Moon
 

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Discussion Starter #4
About a week or so ago was the last cleaning, and all of that went smoothly, field stripped no problem. I last shot it yesterday and maybe ran 30 rounds through it with out problem. I use a folded piece of heavy canvas to hold oped the trigger guard which has always worked well for me in the past. Just cycled 7 subsonics without issue. Still stuck
 

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For the OP, can you make some determination of just how far the slide will move?
With my PPK/s (Manurhin/Interarms) .22, there is 1 3/8" of barrel protruding with the slide at full travel against the triggerguard stop, and 1 5/8" at full travel with the guard down.
Moon
 

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Have you ever tried to take the slide off with the mag still in the gun?

M

P.S. Customer service departments hear this all the time.
Well, actually, yes, which is why I asked the question. :confused:

I realize, from a safety aspect, that having the mag and any possible cartridges out is a good thing.

So removing the mag may be a 'best practice'; I just questioned it related to the OP's problem. The mag ain't what is keeping his slide on.

But mine come apart just fine with the mag in. When reassembling, it's only necessary to remove the mag to run the slide into battery.

A TPH requires removing the mag just to pull down the trigger guard.
Moon
 

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Well, actually, yes, which is why I asked the question. :confused:
...
But mine come apart just fine with the mag in. When reassembling, it's only necessary to remove the mag to run the slide into battery.

...
Sorry, you are absolutely correct.

I'm having cranial flatulence, thinking of those Walthers on which the slide must be removed from the front.

M
 

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You're the smartest guy here, Mike.
You're allowed to drop the ball once in awhile. ;)
Moon

ETA- and now back to the OP. Have you had a chance to check any of those dimensions?
M
 

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If the slide won't lift up at the rear, there can be only one reason: the slide is not being moved back far enough for its rails to clear the rear frame slots.

So what's preventing it?

I suspect maybe the recoil spring was installed backward, and the small diameter end (now at the front) gets jammed in the clearance between the barrel and the barrel bushing area of the slide. OR: the big diameter of the spring (now at the rear) is splayed out and and piled up at the frame boss and obstructing the slide from moving far enough rearward.

Unless somebody has a better idea, I'd remove the trigger guard and fish around with a bamboo skewer in the hole to see if the spring can be compressed either forward or rearward to create a bit of slack.

It would take a minimum of three hands...

M
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mike that sounds likely,I can't figure what else it could be. it's definately not a gunk issue. I'm starting surgery....
- looski
 

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And that was it. I'm a bone head I suppose. Got it done without removing the trigger guard, just held it open in one hand and compressed the spring forward with a skewer in the other. Worked like a charm. Mike, thanks again, you have saved me.
- looski
 

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Help?

Hello Folks. I am new to the forum, and found it by looking for help. Just as in this thread, I cannot get my slide back far enough to clear the rails. It is an Interarms PPK .380, but the plot thickens. I foolishly took a gun that maybe jammed twice since I owned it, and only when I was breaking it in with the first 50 rounds (25+ years ago), and because I am starting to have some arthritis issues figured what could be the harm in trying a Wolf 17 lb over the stock 20 lb.

I assumed that the worst that could happen was I could always swap back in the original spring. When I was re-assembling the slide (new spring was seated in the proper direction) I had a little trouble getting the slide back on, but used a little pressure, and didn't think twice about it.

Now - even pressing against a table top, I cannot clear the slide track to take the slide off. I suppose I could try sticking something in to play with the spring, but I am sure it is in the right direction.

I don't think I could be the first dummy to do this, but if you cannot clear, what on earth else can you do to get enough compression to get that spring the heck out of there? I feel like I betrayed a good friend, for no reason. In all honesty, I took a great gun and messed it up - for no good reason!
Thanks Gents!!!

PS: After really being down on myself, I do think I found a way out. If I got a pair of needle noses wire cutters into the open trigger guard slot, assuming I could find a needle nose cutter - I could cut the Wolf spring, and then pray I get clearance. Any thoughts?
 

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Can't see a lesser spring rate being responsible. Unless Wolf Q.C. is asleep... or the rounds were over "normal" load and packed coils of the spring. Surgically going in and cutting a coil ~might~ relieve the blockage enough to allow pulling the slide rearward to clear the rail. Worth a try!

Let us know what turns out.
 

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Can't see a lesser spring rate being responsible. Unless Wolf Q.C. is asleep... or the rounds were over "normal" load and packed coils of the spring. Surgically going in and cutting a coil ~might~ relieve the blockage enough to allow pulling the slide rearward to clear the rail. Worth a try!

Let us know what turns out.
Hello DrE. Thanks for your input!

No rounds were chambered or fired! I installed the new spring, and then (foolishly) looked around the web for opinions. A lot more people feel leaving it stock is smarter, so I had second thoughts without even testing it.

Almost has to be Wolf put the wrong spring in the bag, or as you said their QC was asleep at the wheel, or maybe different specs for Interarms vs. S&W? The spring does not say for which!

This all happened because I was buying ammo from Midway (whom I have no problems with ever) and as you may know they give you suggestions. The 17 lb spring popped up, and I bit.

Now, trying to find a snipper is not going to be easy. I am finding ones on Amazon were the reviews are like "worked great until my wife used it for artificial floral arrangement!" So I may have trouble finding something that will cut that spring!

Quick edit - Midway did not "suggest" the spring. I just remembered that I searched PPK accessories before checking out. Also, I now see you re in Denmark, so Midway may not be familiar to you. It is a large sporting goods internet supplier that strongly supports the NRA.
 

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Don't snip the spring; you'll probably just compound the problem by creating more renegade sharp ends of springs to deal with. At least when the spring is all in one piece and around the barrel, it can't go very far astray.

It MIGHT be part of the problem that Wolff often omits the usual closed and ground ends on recoil springs. (That's one big reason I don't like to use them. ) The lighter spring has smaller diameter wire, which leaves clearance for the spring to splay out (or get jammed in) where it shouldn't. In which case the solution is to relieve the pressure on those pointed ends by compressing the spring in the middle. Remove the trigger guard (see the Stickie) and lock the gun upside down in a padded vise, with the jaws holding the slide stationary. Put some electrical tape on the slide just in case to prevent scratches. (Don't squeeze too hard near the unsupported bottom of the slide or your troubles have just begun.) Use a bamboo skewer, which won't scratch the barrel or spring, to compress the spring in one direction or the other, while pushing the frame to see if it will move rearward far enough to lift off. You may need an assistant. If the spring seems to be caught on one end of the barrel or the other, you may have found the problem; apply more force until it's freed. If that doesn't work, think about a small pair of surgical forceps with a bit of tape around the jaws.

M
 

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Don't snip the spring; you'll probably just compound the problem by creating more renegade sharp ends of springs to deal with. At least when the spring is all in one piece and around the barrel, it can't go very far astray.

It MIGHT be part of the problem that Wolff often omits the usual closed and ground ends on recoil springs. (That's one big reason I don't like to use them. ) The lighter spring has smaller diameter wire, which leaves clearance for the spring to splay out (or get jammed in) where it shouldn't. In which case the solution is to relieve the pressure on those pointed ends by compressing the spring in the middle. Remove the trigger guard (see the Stickie) and lock the gun upside down in a padded vise, with the jaws holding the slide stationary. Put some electrical tape on the slide just in case to prevent scratches. (Don't squeeze too hard near the unsupported bottom of the slide or your troubles have just begun.) Use a bamboo skewer, which won't scratch the barrel or spring, to compress the spring in one direction or the other, while pushing the frame to see if it will move rearward far enough to lift off. You may need an assistant. If the spring seems to be caught on one end of the barrel or the other, you may have found the problem; apply more force until it's freed. If that doesn't work, think about a small pair of surgical forceps with a bit of tape around the jaws.

M
Thank you Mike. Much appreciated and I will give it a try. Not that this means much, but the little bit of spring that I can see, when trying to visually see what is going on, appears to be compressing uniformly, but I am only seeing a tiny section, and have no way of seeing what on earth is going on closer to the muzzle. If jockeying the spring both ways does not create any more clearance, apparently I am cooked. I see no other way to get in there. All the reverse engineering in the world wont get me in that space.

Assuming I am at the end of the rope - what if I was able to put multiple snips in the spring, and then pull out a section of spring with needle nose pliers? I agree having sharp pieces of hard wire is looking for trouble, but if I could fish out a section, it would buy me some room - or it could buy me a lot more trouble...
 

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I don't even want to contemplate the mess you'll be in if you try to cut, and wind up mangling that spring.

Compress the spring one coil at a time, holding it with one tool while you push with another.

M

And I would not dismiss the deft application of a rawhide mallet on the back of the frame while holding the slide stationary in the vise. Remove the grips and hammer spring & guide first. You might be able to pop the recoil spring into further compression.
 
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