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Yepper, internet gunsmithing is a bit tricky. Gun in hand and many of use could say what is wrong....not that we could fix it. Sometimes that takes new parts. Guns and free ammo....OK Sergeant127, I'll be out Sat morning.....Actually just got back to the hotel from my bladder cancer surgery....hurts and burns like fire....but, I'll live to shoot another day. Best of luck Gaetano. Some used parts are even a bit hard to find in the US but international shipping is the real trick. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
Hello everybody, I am sorry if i didn't post in the last days, but I had work to do with my university. Anyway, I have got some news that I would like to share with you all that have supported me in this forum, thank you everybody. Yesterday I went to my friend's home and we disassembled both my interarms ppk/s made in Virginia and his Walther PP made in Germany ( not in ZM ) in the '70s. We assembled his PP's Hammer on my PPKS and the problem was solved. Now I am looking for a PP inox hammer and I think that I will solve this story very soon.
For the Slide that didn't want to stay open when the mag was empty he solved doing a manual operation. He hitted the little tab of the magazine with a gavel and some iron and he streched it a little bit so that the ejector don't "escape". Now the slide remains open when i finish the ammos. We shooted a couple of rounds and noy the pistol works. Thank you all for your help, Have a nice day !

Gaetano
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
Now you've done it....I would look for wear spots that seem excessive.....mainspring hammer strut (binding), hammer block (binding type wear), decocking lever for any excessive wear, etc. Also how about a really good photo of the sear ledge under the cocking piece and the toe of the hammer where it engages the sear ledge. Your problems seem to be in SA only and the noise/binding issue seems to be related to that action only. The only difference between DA and SA that I can think of offhand is that the toe of the hammer is caught by the sear and is not when in DA. I think the hammer might move a bit further rearward when in SA which might have something to do with the mainspring/strut.

Did this pistol ever work properly in SA? If nothing seems out of sorts I'd reassemble without the decocker and test the action. If that didn't show any problems I would reinstall it and remove the hammer block. Note; you can check function of the pistol in SA with no hammer block but if you test fire use only one cartridge at a time. It has been reported that the pistol can go full auto with no hammer block. I don't know that for sure but the hammer block does block the hammer between shots....so, one round at a time. That should tell you all you need to know anyway. I still think you might be able to assess the problem with the slide and grips off but testing with the slide on is good. I would leave the grips off so I could see the inner parts movement. I don't think you will be able to assess the hammer block and perhaps a wrong spring there.....you would have to be very experienced in that regard. But you could certainly remove it to see if SA is smooth with no premature hammer drop. I'm not really sure what the hammer block would have to do with the pistol dropping to DA, that would likely be more of an issue with decocking lever or the hammer toe/sear engagement. At least now you can have a good look at both and perhaps be able to tell if someone has been messin' around where they shouldn't have been. 1917



The hammer toe should be square and without a lot of wear or damage to it. Note the difference in the adjustment of the dogleg. My hammer is on the right, another that would not function in the pistol is on the left. The issue was the dogleg not being properly adjusted for my cocking piece. You would have to know what you are doing to correct stuff like this. Gunsmith time. Regarding your hammer toe look for damage like someone filing on it. Likewise the sear ledge under the cocking piece should be clean and straight and not filed down or rounded off where the hammer toe rests. In SA, pulling the trigger pulls the trigger bar forward. The rear of the trigger bar engages the cocking piece and begins to rotate the top forward. This lifts the inner cocking piece and sear ledge. The hammer is released, or should be, when the cocking piece/sear lifts too high for the hammer toe to remain caught. The hammer toe breaks from engagement and the hammer falls. All of this is carefully timed so that the hammer block has been lifted out of the way of the falling hammer. You can see all of this with the slide off and the grips off. Cock the hammer, place your thumb over it lightly and pull the trigger slowly.....what is snapping and why is the hammer being prematurely released? Do it 100 times until you figure it out. Worn or damaged parts might be able to be corrected and if not you will need new parts.



You were right, the picture describes what the problem was. I think that my hammer is like the hammer on the left in the picture, but on eye i couldn't afford it because i think that is a millimetric damage.
 

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A PP hammer made of stainless steel you wouldn't find anywhere, it was never made ;). PPK(/S) hammer should be correct. But as Manurhin and Walther delivered several different finishes, nickeled or chrome should also available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
A PP hammer made of stainless steel you wouldn't find anywhere, it was never made ;). PPK(/S) hammer should be correct. But as Manurhin and Walther delivered several different finishes, nickeled or chrome should also available.
it's true, you're right, I hadn't thought about it
 
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