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Gaetano, thanks for the photos. In the future turn off the flash, use a dark background, red, blue, brown and have a good source of non reflective light. I find that outside light is great...just out of direct sunlight. The worst pictures that show up here at many threads are those taken using a flash. It knocks out the detail that we need to see. Your English is fine. A few of your photos are very clear and in sharp focus, well lit. The hammer block held on your fingers for example. Remember....your photo needs to show what you are trying to illustrate...not just a photo of a part.

In your first and third photos of the hammer the toe seems a bit too rounded off to me. An angled in shot, 3D so to speak would better show the condition perhaps. And, what does the sear ledge under the cocking piece look like? When the hammer is cocked the bottom toe of hammer is caught on a narrow ledge under the cocking piece. This is the sear. It securely or should securely hold the hammer toe in place, keeping the hammer cocked until you pull the trigger. Pulling the trigger lifts the sear ledge which releases the hammer to fall.

Photo #4 is a good sharp although dark image of the bottom of the hammer toe. Good photo....but, I can't tell exactly what the shape of the toe is. If you were to rotate the part a bit so that the bottom, edge and top of the toe is shown very clearly it would be of more benefit. Whatever you have I don't think the part is ruined.

The part on your finger tips....part of the hammer block? Do you have any springs with it.

Let's back up....I need a more precise explanation of your problem. As I understand it your pistol functions fine in double action mode. Trigger pulls smoothly, hammer is pressed rearward and released hitting the firing pin and the pistol fires and ejects. This of course should have the slide cock the hammer and leave the pistol in single action...hammer cocked.

Here is where I'm not clear. Can you manually cock the hammer and have it securely lock in the cocked position. Forget about the trigger for a second. Will the hammer securely be caught by the sear, can you press on the rear of the cocked hammer and make it fall? Second, if manually cocking the hammer works fine and cycling the slide works fine with regard to cocking the hammer. What exactly is the problem when you pull the trigger in single action. I understand there is some type of clicking, and the hammer returns to double action. But what exactly is happening. For example, is the hammer not being cocked by the cycling slide when firing and the hammer is following the slide back forward? Or is the hammer being securely cocked and pulling the trigger causes the hammer to partially drop? If it partially drops, what next? Do you have to let off of the trigger and pull again in double action. Since we don't have your pistol in hand a better explanation of exactly what is happening might help.

If the hammer is following the slide forward the problem could be weak ammo, too strong of a recoil spring, pistol being held not firmly, damaged hammer toe/sear. Remember, in double action the dogleg on the hammer cocks and releases the hammer....the cocking piece sear is never engaged. So a totally different method of releasing the hammer versus single action where the cocking piece sear releases the hammer.

I don't see anything wrong with the trigger bar, hammer pin, decocking lever #5, mainspring strut, etc. Although I would not be able to tell from photos if an out of spec part had been installed in the pistol. Did the pistol work properly at some time in the past or has this always been an issue? Reassemble, leave out the decocking lever and test. If that doesn't help anything put the part back in. BTW, a test for the proper lever is to cock the hammer, rotate the safety toward safe, down position. The decocking lever should release the hammer as the leading edge of the safety lever crosses the middle of the red dot. If it does...it is likely not a problem caused by the lever.

Next is the hammer block. It has to fit properly and the spring must be up to spec. This is not something you or I will be able to determine except for dropping the hammer and looking at the position of the part as the hammer falls. The block must be lifted by the cocking piece so it will not block the hammer as I have previously shown on photos of my IA pistol. I can tell you that the little spring there can cause problems and there is very little difference between a proper spring and one that has weakened.

So go back and tell us exactly what the pistol is doing especially in single action. With the slide and grips off you should be able to observe all of this including what is clicking. Control the fall of the hammer with a thumb....don't drop it with the slide off. Does everything look fine under the slide?

In your very last photo the cocking piece and dogleg look fine. But, this is something that is very hard to tell from a photo. We will assume that is not the issue since the top of the cocking piece and the dogleg are what cock the hammer in DA and release it and the pistol is functioning fine in DA. The toe of the hammer in that photo once again looks like it might be damaged. Too rounded off, notch in it. Hard to tell. Has someone been filing on it or stoning it in an attempt to lighten the trigger pull...????? Or is it fine and a good photo would show it to be so.

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Note how the hammer toe is shaped on my hammer. Note how it rests on the sear ledge when cocked and in SA. The sear ledge under the cocking piece should be neat, square and undamaged. Pulling the trigger simply raises the cocking piece until the hammer toe slips off of the ledge. 1917
 

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97448


Your hammer toe looks damaged. It appears to be too rounded off at the bottom and edge and there appears to be some kind of notch in the top. It should not be rounded off nor should there be a notch. Not sure there is a notch but it looks like one in this photo. The toe of the hammer has to be caught securely on the narrow ledge of the sear on the bottom of the cocking piece. Inspect it also to make sure it is not damaged...rounded off. The parts might be able to be repaired or perhaps not. It depends on the amount of wear if any. This is a critical part to the safety of the pistol, sear/hammer engagement. It would sure be good if you could find an experienced gunsmith to look at this. You should also be able to look at the function at this area with the grips off. Slowly pull the trigger in SA, the cocking piece should lift until it releases the hammer....no grinding or other noise should occur. The cocking piece should not engage the dogleg in single action. Again, remove the slide and have a look at the interaction of the parts here 20 or 30 times until you clearly see what is going on. 1917
 

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I'd make a video of how it should work but I'm out of town waiting on a bit of cancer surgery. Bah, tired of Houston already. Got a week delay because the experts forgot to tell me to stop taking one of my prescriptions. I flew out so I don't have any firearms with me. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
I'd make a video of how it should work but I'm out of town waiting on a bit of cancer surgery. Bah, tired of Houston already. Got a week delay because the experts forgot to tell me to stop taking one of my prescriptions. I flew out so I don't have any firearms with me. 1917
Sir, I am really sorry for your problem, And I really hope and wish you to be very well soon. About the gun I ordered a new hammer and a new ejector from www.amsmilitaria.eu . Hope that it wasn't a scam, but if it is not I will receive finally the spare parts to repair it. Thank you for your support, again, It is fantastic talking with such a good person. Anyway I am going to read calmy your message ( I am not perfect in reading/writing in english ) so that I can understand and acting
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
Anyway yes, the gun has worked in the past very well also in SA. Now I am going to disasseble it again and I am going to take some better pictures. Could it be that the issue isn't in the hammer toe but in the hammer lever?
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I have disassembled it and I have just removed the hammer block piece but the problem still remain, so I think, at this point, that is an hammer's issue
 

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No, I'll check em out. I don't have a car and have been unsuccessful in trying to rent one. I was supposed to be back home by now...only brought enough stuff for two days. Now I'm here for over a week. Thanks for the info. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
No, I'll check em out. I don't have a car and have been unsuccessful in trying to rent one. I was supposed to be back home by now...only brought enough stuff for two days. Now I'm here for over a week. Thanks for the info. 1917
I hope that you are fine Sir. So now are you in hospital ? I am sorry.. It is an absurd situation, also with this virus and so on... Hope you will be well
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
In Italy the situation is very tragic.. The hospitals are starting to go in down because there is no space for people
 

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No Redcat, I'll check em out. I don't have a car and have been unsuccessful in trying to rent one. I was supposed to be back home by now...only brought enough stuff for two days. 1917
 

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Gaetano, thanks. I have a bit of cancer but have been having it treated for five years now. It will likely not go away, it will likely not kill me...but something will one of these days. Thanks for the kind words.

If the decocking lever is working correctly....there are 9 and you have #5...then I don't think that part is the issue. A way to tell is to cock the hammer, lower the safety arm and as the leading edge crosses the red dot the hammer should be decocked...assuming there is nothing wrong with the hammer. That is the purpose of 9 slightly different levers...to allow the gunsmith the opportunity to install the correct lever width for proper timing of the hammer's release. I assume the Ranger pistols are the same as the Ulm and Manurhin models here. Perhaps they aren't. MGMike might have said something about it in the sticky. I'll have to refresh my memory by reading it again.

With the grips off you should be able to watch the rear of the trigger bar engage the cocking spur on the cocking piece. Does it engage it properly and stay engaged as you pull the trigger in DA and SA. You should actually be able to look directly at the engagement as it moves with the grips removed. The rear of the trigger bar must stay engaged and not slip off as you are pulling the trigger....DA or SA.

The next thing I see seems to be a problem with the hammer toe. You didn't take a photo of the sear ledge while the hammer was out of the pistol but what I can see seems to be in good shape. On the other hand the little bit of the left side of the hammer toe seems to have an issue. It might just be a ding at the corner but it appears that the toe has been undercut and if so this is a very dangerous engagement. Again, you haven't pictured a really good photo of the hammer toe. I've marked up your photo below to show what I see, added a graphic in red of what the bottom of the cocking piece looks like (red) how the hammer toe should look (blue) and how it appears that the nose of your hammer has been worn or changed. (yellow) The blue profile is how the hammer toe should engage the sear ledge. Not be shaved off to the yellow shape.

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Of course I can't tell if this is just the very edge of the toe that has this shape or if the entire toe is shaped like this. If so, this is not correct. Can the toe be properly reshaped???? I don't know. This is a critical component in the safety of firing the pistol and might be allowing the hammer to slip off the sear before the hammer block is lifted out of the way of the falling hammer. This may be the problem with the hammer dropping prematurely, hitting the hammer block (fortunately) and then requiring you to let off the trigger and pull again in DA. But, you should be able to have a close look at this (empty pistol of course) and see exactly what is going on. You can hold the pistol under a good light with the grip off and look at it just like shown above. As soon as the hammer slips off.....hold everything just like it is and look at the hammer block. Has it risen to near the top of the frame. Is it blocking the hammer? If so, this might be the problem area. Hammer being released too quickly due to worn hammer toe and possibly damaged sear ledge which we cannot see in the photos. 1917
 

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97459


Grabbed off a video of a Smith pistol but what I wanted was to show what the sear ledge should look like. Nice and straight and not damaged. What I can see of yours Gaetano is that it looks good....but I can't see the center section where the hammer toe rests.

What part of Italy? I have friends from Trieste' which almost doesn't seem to be in Italy it's so high up the boot. I had one of my landscape plans and house featured in a magazine called Villa Giardini out of Milan and I can't read any of it since it is in Italian. Send me one of those red Italian cars will you....the low down ones that have a name that starts with an F. I need one.... 1917
 

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Just a quick point.

Trying to solve a problem like this via the internet is like trying to drop a penny in a cup from a 50 story building. But, if enough people try enough times, one will land in the cup.
Gaetano: Your English is outstanding. You are well spoken, polite and, inquisitive. You also have a “I’m going to fix this!” Attitude. You’re also a decent photographer!

To every one else, you are excellent examples of good folks trying to help out a stranger. Very heartwarming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Thank you all and thank you very much for your beautiful words. I have to say I am really happy that I found this Forum because this is full of fantastic people and is incredible the relationship that we can made between strangers. Very good people here, really. I am Happy to be here
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Anyway my gunsmith here in Italy called me and he told me that he is going to order the hammer for me soon. I will exchange that with mine and I will see if I’ll solve! I am pretty sure that it is about the hammer. I will write here if it works. I just hope that as always he won’t forget to order the hammer.. I am sorry that I can’t post definetly a video to show you better..
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I have to say that thanks to you all in this forum I maybe discovered (finally ) that the problem was the Hammer. You are great . In 7 months my gunsmith never watched my gun , and always said “ yes I will see it “. I didn’t know people that could help me for this issue, but you gave to me a lot of precious infos to solve this problem. Now the only issue is getting the parts here in Italy, but maybe this time my gunsmith can help me xD thank you a lot again
This is the best and the most serious walther community in the Web
 

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If you find yourself in Nevada, holler at me.

Huge gun range on federal land 8 miles from my house.

I’ll supply some guns and ammo.
 
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