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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I am new to the forum. Searched the forum but did not find a thread addressing this specific issue. Please see enclosed photo. Gun has gone twice to the gunsmith, first time verdict was magazine. Second time it was a cracked extractor. Needless to say, it did it again.

Firing conditions: ball ammo, only 6th rounds in the magazine. Gun clean.

After firing the first round, gun jams. I have to drop the magazine and manually eject the non-spent round. It repeats the problem once more and then it fires fine with two rounds left.

I ordered a new spring from Wolfe but other than that, don't know what is going on. The problem makes me nervous about keeping this gun for personal defense. Guess I can fall in love with it again if it starts performing!

Any thoughts, comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

JPI
 

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I'm not a gunsmith by any means but do know that there are some Interarms guns out there that are problematic..

What brand of ammo do you use? Remington/UMC had issues with my S&W PPK when it was new.. Seems undercharged as I could have 2 or 3 FTFs with it in one mag, and load the other one with WWB, Speer, or even Federal and it would go 7 for 7 without a hitch.

Make sure you aren't limp wristing... My wife learned this first hand as she'd let the recoil take control and the gun would tend to FTF if she wasn't gripping tightly enough..

I don't much else to tell you as I've found the more rounds put through a blowback - especially the PPK the better.

I gave up on a S&W PPK/S as I thought it was a lemon from the factory when in reality all it needed was more rounds down the tube to break in.

I'm sure someone will come along shortly with better advice, but what I can tell you is these folks are the PPK repair masters...

PPK and PPK/S Repair
 

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Welcome to WaltherForums!
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I'd do these quick checks to see if your gun needs professional help... :)
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First get some dummy rounds and a mag that works in other guns of the same type. Remove the slide and recoil spring. Then insert the mag and make sure it locks in with no vertical play and visually check the mag catch to be sure it isn't damaged.
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Check the firing pin and loaded chamber indicator. The firing pin should be in one piece and move in and out under spring tension. The indicator pin should move up and down & in and out freely under spring tension.
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Check the extractor visually for damage and correct installation. It should move in and out freely under spring tension.
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Check the breech face for machining burrs or anything that would interfere with the case rim sliding up and under the extractor. Take a dummy round and push it up the breech face and under the extractor. It should slide easily and snick into place with the firing pin centered on the primer.
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Drop a dummy round in the chamber. It should go all the way in and fall out by gravity. Check for burrs in the chamber especially at the top and spin a bore brush soaked in cleaner to remove any gunk.
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Check the ejector for damage and proper installation. Lift up and it should be pushed back down by the spring.
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Visually check for burrs on the feed ramp and top of the chamber. Push a dummy round out of the mag and then up the feed ramp and into the chamber feeling for anything that could hang up a round while feeding.
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If everything checks out put the slide on without the recoil spring. Lock in a five round mag of dummy rounds. Then slowly hand cycle the slide all the way to the rear and then forward to watch how the round is pushed out of the mag, up the breechface and under the extractor. The indicator pin should be pushed up by the case rim and rest against the barrel above the chamber as the slide closes. Keep cycling the slide until the mag is empty and the slide locks back.
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If everything is ok put the recoil spring back in with the tight end over the barrel. Hand cycle dummy rounds until you can identify a malfunction. Don't worry if the rounds don't fly across the room...just that they clear the gun. If everything is working give the rails a light lube and go to the range.
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Lock the slide back with an empty mag. Then load five rounds in the mag and lock the mag in place. With the muzzle down range and the safety off pull back hard on the slide until it slips from your fingers.
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If the round loads properly put the safety on and take it off again to move the trigger forward. Holding the gun firmly fire the first round double action. If it cycles correctly fire the rest of the mag single action until the slide locks back.
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Continue to load and fire until you reach 50 rounds. Clear any stoppages carefully. If the gun will not load and cycle after 50 rounds you may need a qualified Walther gunsmith to get things working right.
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From the angle of the cartridge I'd say "short recoil". New (stronger) recoil spring only makes it worse.

M
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+1...Here's a photo of a dummy round that hung up under the extractor hook when I intentionally short cycled the slide. This 1941 PPK reliably fires S&B ball, FN flat tip, and Federal HydraShok. The case rim design seems to affect reliability more than the type of bullet.
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks to all for the quick reply. I will go thru the checks posted above and provide feedback later this week.
MG Mike reference the spring, I bought the gun in 1995 but have not fired it often. The spring on the gun is loose on both ends, meaning it slides out of the barrel with no resistance. If the new 20lbs spring makes it worse, guess I could try the calibration pack from Wolfe and see if a lesser tension would work. What do you think?
Again, many thanks!
 

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If you haven't fired it more then a few times and it's been sitting awhile you may want to drop it in an ultrasonic cleaner to dissolve the varnish that used to be lube. Make sure that the slide moves all the way back until it hits the trigger guard block and stops. Then drop the trigger guard and be sure you can pull the slide back far enough to easily remove the slide.
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If someone has stretched the recoil spring this could be part of the problem. Wolff springs work well but a 20lb spring will be heavier until it takes its set. I've used the calibration pack with good results but mainly for diagnostics.
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Before I forget...if you find binding in the extractor spring tunnel or firing pin hole you may have burrs that can be cleaned up with a fine round Swiss file... :)
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Discussion Starter #9
Update. I thoroughly cleaned the gun, checked everything as suggested and installed a brand new 20lbs Wolfe spring. Went to the range last night and fired around sixty rounds. Initially I got a couple of miss-feeds but then I realized that I was so preoccupied by not getting nicked that my grip was not firm. Once I corrected that, the gun fired like a champ.

Had a weird thing happen though, once the gun fired and cycled but it returned the safety on its own to safe. Does anyone know what can cause that? Also would appreciate advice whether I should replace the firing pin spring. Wolfe sent one with the recoil spring.

You guys are awesome, thanks much for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Searcher, thanks! I will go to the range again to play and see how frequent it moves to safe. It only did it once, but that is one too many! Guess at this point is send to MM or sell. Unfortunately I already spent over $150 with a local gunsmith and ended resolving the feeder problem myself with a Wolfe spring.
 

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Also would appreciate advice whether I should replace the firing pin spring. Wolfe sent one with the recoil spring.
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Wolff includes a new firing pin spring to offset the increased slide velocity (and firing pin inertia) from installing the new recoil spring. If the old firing pin spring is weak the firing pin may strike the primer as the slide closes...or if the pistol is dropped on the muzzle with the safety off.
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Personally, I'd install the new firing pin spring. It's easy to do and keeps the springs matched. Just don't use the olive fork... :rolleyes:
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From the angle of the cartridge I'd say "short recoil". New (stronger) recoil spring only makes it worse.

M
I'm inclined to agree with Mike. Further, the problems with the first rounds out of the magazine, but not the last, sounds like more of the same.
When the mag is full, the top round offers more drag on the slide, and the rounds offer more resistance to being stripped from the mag.
It sounds like underpowered rounds.
Are you still using the same ammo?
Moon
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks. I will replace that spring as well. I am using American Eagle 95 gr ball. Thinking hard about the cycling to safe issue. The threat posted did not have any specific solution other than sending the gun in for repair to MM. Just a little frustrated at this point, good thing that I have my trusted P99 to ease my pain!
 

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Here is what you do.

1)new ppk, run it about 400 rounds
2)polish the feeding ramp
3)change the recoil spring
4)look for a gun smith
5)sell it to the people who replied your post. They are happy as long as it has a ppk mark on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here is what you do.

1)new ppk, run it about 400 rounds
2)polish the feeding ramp
3)change the recoil spring
4)look for a gun smith
5)sell it to the people who replied your post. They are happy as long as it has a ppk mark on it.
No need for 4 & 5. Replaced all the springs and finally made it to the range this week. I fired about 150 rounds of Winchester, Blazer and Federal HST. It worked like champ. Guess, I am in love again.
 

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Their nothing better than a PPK/S that working and nothing more of a head ache when not. I had one the safety slipped on I don't remember what my gunsmith did but he fix it in a few min It was something simple.

My present Interarms and me have been close friends over many years It loves Corbon DPX for carry and I have shot a ton of S&B out of it . I have found at least for me . That shooting it 1 handed is best way. Remember the 2 hand hold of today came about around 1970 Cooper and Weaver are the 2 main ones that developed what most use today. But this pistol was around long before that and I feel best used with one hand . I bet in a real up close and personal SD you would draw aand shoot 1 handed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks, I never tried shooting single hand but may try next time I am on the range. Now looking for a nice holster.
 

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Just picked up one of the new stainless LPCs, and was reminded that stainless often doesn't machine as smoothly as other steels.
While the OP's gun now has some rounds thu' it, a 'fluff n' buff' may still be in order. This is nothing more than hastening the breakin period by using really fine emery cloth on the sliding surfaces. Particularly important are the grooves in the slide; wrap the emery cloth over an old charge card and polish those slots.
The idea is not to remove metal; it is simply to polish it.
Less physical drag would leave the slide travel more freely.
Moon
 
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