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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am really glad I had some experience fitting dovetail sights because this is not exactly a 5-minute job if you want to do it right - 'just in the way of heads-up if you are planning on doing this yourself. First off, I had to do quite a bit of back and forth on the rear sight base, first using 220 grit paper and then finishing off with 400 wet/dry paper. This was required in order to get the sight to slide in (tight but still move all the way through with finger pressure). I would say I had to do about 12 swipes with the 220 grit paper and maybe 6 finishing touches with the 400 wet/dry. Then after lock clicking the windage screw into the plunger cap, minor finger adjustment to center the rear sight in the dovetail. Once centered, I applied a little (emphasis on little) red Loctite to the corners and front width of the sight, let the liquid seep-in, waited 30-seconds, and wiped off the residue. I am going to let everything cure overnight (actually you only need a few hours with Loctite).

I bring all this up because if you are uncomfortable doing any of this, I seriously recommend you take it to a gunsmith. You need to go slow sanding the base if it doesn't go in. Two or three swipes with the 220 if your sight is quite a bit over-sized as mine was. Try it now and see if it will slide through with finger pressure (you want it tight but "slidable"). No go? Try another couple of swipes, etc. When it looks like you are getting close, that's when it's time to switch to the finer 400 wet/dry paper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You really don't want it to "slip right in." Ideally, there should be some resistance but moderate finger pressure should make it move across the length of the dovetail. I prefer as much resistance as possible without binding. And admittedly, while the Mepros make require more elbow grease, the result (if you don't screw it up) is a fit specifically designed for your gun (it is virtually impossible for dovetail dimensions on every sight/every slide to be the same).
 

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My Meps needed a few swipes too, which was no big deal, but not as much as yours evidently. But they fit and work just fine. I would buy another set in a heartbeat.
 

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Thanks for the heads up - my local shop only charges $35 for sight replacements.
 

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My sights were a little tight but the went on without sanding, I did apply a little slide grease on them and the slid right in nice and snug.
 

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You really don't want it to "slip right in." Ideally, there should be some resistance but moderate finger pressure should make it move across the length of the dovetail. I prefer as much resistance as possible without binding. And admittedly, while the Mepros make require more elbow grease, the result (if you don't screw it up) is a fit specifically designed for your gun (it is virtually impossible for dovetail dimensions on every sight/every slide to be the same).
I guess what I meant to say is that they fit perfectly without any sanding, etc.
 

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I recently installed the new meps made for the compact and they required a few swipes as well and then they fit perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I want to back track on this thread a little. While it is true I had to do considerable sanding of the base of the Meprolight rear sight to get it to fit, I realized afterwards that for some strange reason the windage screw that worked just fine in the OEM plastic rear sight did not work right with Meprolight and this is why I believe the Meprolight rear would not lock in the rear dovetail. Had it locked in place the way it was designed and if it is fitted correctly i.e., it slides into the dovetail with just a gentle push of the finger, there is no reason to apply Loctite.

Yes the Loctite will certainly keep the sight from moving once is cured, however, Loctite is not so great if you ever want to remove the sight - this is my number one complaint with the XS Big Dot rear sight which does relies on Loctite to hold it in place - in fact the manufacturer supplies it with the sight. Unless you have a dedicated sight pusher, you will have to use a punch, hammer and vice to knock the sucker off. In addition, if you Loctite the rear sight on a P99, you will not be able to adjust the windage so you better be sure it's where you want it.

I think all this speaks the need to keep extra parts on hand. A bad screw costing a half a cent can make the difference (maybe) between success and failure. By the way, I'd love to hear suggestions on how to remove Loctite (red) residue from a steel slide. Other than using heat, it's a [email protected]#h of a job.

OK, so what have we learned? 1.Check that screw if you are having problems installing it could be the reason. Better yet keep a spare screw, cap and spring on hand, 2. No Loctite. 3. If you are installing Meprolights on a P99, expect to do a little sanding of the base but go slow. I had to do quite a bit of sanding. 4. If you are uncomfortable with any of this, let a gunsmith do it for you.

Hope this helps. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
But YES to the need to apply Loctite (red) to the FRONT sight screw with either the Meprolights or Earl's night sights. The front sight will shoot loose sooner or later without Loctite applied and with a hex nut wrench, you can still remove it with a little elbow grease.
 

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But YES to the need to apply Loctite (red) to the FRONT sight screw with either the Meprolights or Earl's night sights. The front sight will shoot loose sooner or later without Loctite applied and with a hex nut wrench, you can still remove it with a little elbow grease.
I use Guntite which is made by Locktite. I think it is a little milder than regular Locktite. It has worked just fine with the Guntite.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I use Guntite which is made by Locktite. I think it is a little milder than regular Locktite. It has worked just fine with the Guntite.
I think Guntite if memory serves, is the equivalent of Loctite Blue (med strength). If it works for you that's fine. I have had front sights shoot loose however with Blue and Red (high strength) has pretty much become the standard for securing hex nut front sights such as on the Glock and the P99. You can't go wrong with the Red for starters since a decent hex nut tool will get it off with no problem should you ever desire. And with the red you know it's going to stay put. But certainly your call.
 

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I just finished installing my second set of meps on a p99. On both I had to remove a little material from the rear sight. I have found that a stone works great, I just swipe the front rail of the rear sight a few times until it snuggly fits into the dovetail. The Mep instructions say to remove material from the dovetail, WHICH IS CRAZY!!!:eek: . I don't know why they suggest that, I advise against it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just finished installing my second set of meps on a p99. On both I had to remove a little material from the rear sight. I have found that a stone works great, I just swipe the front rail of the rear sight a few times until it snuggly fits into the dovetail. The Mep instructions say to remove material from the dovetail, WHICH IS CRAZY!!!:eek: . I don't know why they suggest that, I advise against it.
Don't ever remove or alter the dovetail. You "attack" the cheapest/most easily replaceable part in this case the base of the sight not the dovetail - unless of course you have the requisite tools and know exactly what you are doing.

I was somewhat taken aback by all the sanding I had to do with the Meprolights, much more than I anticipated and I am not a novice when it comes to installing sights. Something to be said for the nights sights offered by Earl that do in fact slide right in. Are they worth almost double the price of the Mepros? Only you can decide.
 
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