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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I like to know how things work and I enjoy disassembling all my firearms so I can really get to know them. Here is the PPS

USE THIS INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK. I'm not responsible for lost springs, damaged firearms, injuries or death associated with anything you do. :)

First is the field strip. (note that in the pic the back-strap is on, technically I should have removed this before field stripping to de-cock according to the owners manual)


The slide opens up pretty normally, press in the detent on the back above the striker indicator and slide the cover off toward the bottom. Ease off the pressure on the detent and the striker assembly comes out.
To take apart that assembly you pull the spring off the plastic coupling at the front of the striker and the two halves come off allowing the assembly to come apart.


Removing the extractor is pretty easy. Press down on the detent in the hole behind the silver covered fire pin safety block. The extractor will move out just a bit. Place your finger or thumb over the detent and the safety block then pull on the extractor. Both detents will spring out to your finger and the spring on the extractor may also come out (not in the photo)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
To pull the metal subframe out of the plastic frame takes some work. First you need to remove the slide release. To do this you press down on the silver spring inside the frame with a punch. While holding it down you can move the stop from right to left. It will only go out this way, you'll see a little notch on the rear side of the whole that matches up with part of the stop. It takes some wiggle to get it out.


Then remove the two pins, one just below the serial number, one back where the webbing of your hand wraps around. I used a small set of punches. The front one was easy, the back was tight. Be careful not to damage the plastic around them.
Then you can carefully pull the sub-frame out of the plastic frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·


That's as far as I got. I couldn't find a way to disassemble it anymore without passing my risk threshold I'm sure that sub-frame comes apart more, I just don't know how. The slide stop and it's spring comes off but that was all.

Reassembly is more or less opposite of disassembly.

Patt
 

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We'll do that with a few more picture posts of the rest dissasebmled :eek:

All kidding aside.. very nice and informative post
maybe you could take/post a few more pics of the back of the PPS frame to show how the backstrap decocks the PPS... (without the housing)
 

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Nice job, indeed.

The photo here looks a lot like the staple gun I use to plaster paper plates over my targets at the range. It's also enough to make me rethink my thought process on whether I want to get one of these *&#&#@(*& things, when and if they ever become readily available and the kinks get worked out of them. That's a lot of money for a staple gun on steroids, after all. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all.

maybe you could take/post a few more pics of the back of the PPS frame to show how the backstrap decocks the PPS... (without the housing)
It's easy to see with it still in the housing. The back side that you can't see is almost solid piece of black plastic.
Here is how I THINK it works.

First pic is what everything looks like cocked. The green arrow points to the part of the trigger bar that is against the striker. The striker is in partially cocked position. The yellow circle shows the de-cocking part raised up above the trigger bar. The blue arrow shows the bar that pushes up on the slide safety block.



When the trigger is pulled, the trigger bar moves back (fully cocking the striker) and downward (making it fall off the bottom of the striker). This allows the striker to spring forward. When the trigger is pulled it also raises the metal bar (blue arrow) that pushes up on the safety locking block (the silver button looking thing) on the slide. This pushes the slide safety block up out of the way so that the striker can hit the primer.



When the back-strap is removed to de-cock the gun, it simply pulls the trigger bar down off of the striker. It does NOT lift the slide safety block out of the way. So when the trigger bar is pulled down, the striker fires from its partially cocked position but slams into the slide safety block and can not hit the primer. You can test this by taking your slide without the barrel and pressing forward on the striker tab. When you do this, you don't see the striker pin poke out the hole. But if you depress that safety block when you do this, you will see the pin extend to hit the primer.
Note that the green arrow shows the trigger bar in the as fired position but the part that touches the safety block (blue arrow) does not move up. The pic angle doesn't show that very well.



Hope that helps.
Pat
 

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Thanks...
that is a wonderful post....
great going.....
 

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I was thinking of giving Pat the title of "PPS man" but decided not to mess with it....
so how about you guys spread some love with the "user reputation" option that you see on the bottom of each indevidual post......:D
you know.. under the user name where the green dot is when you are online
 

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Please excuse me for digging up this old thread, but it seemed better than creating a new one. Besides, this one has good info it in that all PPS owners should be aware of.

My question revolves around the picture from the previous page:



On my gun, the little silver tab to the right and below the green arrow in the pic above has a big "S" stamped into it. Does anyone know what that indicates? Is this the disconnector? If not, what is this part called, and what is its function? I can't find a full schematic for this gun anywhere.

-- Sam
 

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Two questions:

1) Can the steel subframe be extracted from the plastic frame without FIRST removing the plastic backstrap?

2) If the answer is Yes, is anything holding the backstrap in place after the steel subframe is removed?

3) If the answer to Number 2) is No, is there any reason why the backstrap could not be pinned (or even glued) in to keep it from unexpectedly falling off?

Just curious.

M
 

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Try in the "downloads" of this page (lower left) the file "Ersatzteilzeichnung"
Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.

Indeed, the part I was asking about above is the disconnector. Does anyone know why mine might be stamped "S"?

I'm having visions of the Glock disconnectors that alter the trigger pull weight. I'm wondering if my "S" disconnector is somehow different than the standard. The trigger pull feels fine, I'm just curious.

-- Sam
 

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Just in case anyone is interested, "Ersatzteil Zeichnung" means component drawing.
 

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There will be different disconnectors.....
If I had half a brain left I could tell you what the "S" stands for....
 
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