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12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I purchased my second walther (1st was a P22Q) the new one's a rifle I belive from the markings made in 1969 .22 sports rifle serial number in the 3000's
I've just started work on a new stock for it.
I purchased a blank laminated stock from www.rifle-stocks.com (richards ?)
They won't ship inletted stocks to Australia so I'm restricted to doing the inletting on a thumbhole benchrest stock myself.
I ordered some different router bit sets including a 1 1/4" round nose bit to cut the action channel and a 1" for the barrel itself.

On the weekend i found a piece of 4x2' wood and used that as a test workpiece. I cut the barrel channel using a triton router table (workcentre), it worked well on the test piece.
Then I marked out in the channel where the action was to go, so far so good. and drilled these holes.
So far this is only on the piece of 4.x2'

I'll try and take some photo's if anyones interested.


12 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Photos of stage 1 showing the original rifle (I painted the stock cream because the original colour was bright orange (the're a small wear patch on the stock showing the god awful orange).

Firstly I measured using digital calipers
The other photo's show the sample 4"x2" which I inletted a channel for the barrel (using a 1 1/4" round nose bit) which perfectly matched the round walther action.
Then I used a drill bit in my drill press to cut the rest of the action making the outer circumference of the drill bit to touch the furtherest point.
I then simply used a chisel to square up the holes.
so far I've done one sample, I'll do one more before I'm happy, I'd rather screw it up on a lump of 4x2 than the actual stock.
Then i'll look at bedding using some resin I have.
apparently I can protect the action from getting stuck in the resin by coating the hidden part of the action with natural boot polish, it will also fill any holes.
My assumption is that the resin will bed the stock perfectly to the hole I created and also fill in any of my chiselling marks.


12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Ok here comes the big update.

I bit the bullet the other night, (well not quite... so to speak!)
I've been waiting on a 1" round nose router bit to arrive in the post, which it still hasn't
I was bored, and decided that I needed to get moving.

With my trusty cheap digital calipers from hobbyking, I measured and worked out that the round action matched a 1 & 1/4" Round nose router bit, (cost ~ $8). The barrel matches a 1" router bit (cost ~ $7)
When I factor in a bit of sanding and my wonky routing skills etc., I should have 1mm or 2mm around the action to bed in with resin, I believe it should bed nicely.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I'll use a clear/natural boot polish to act as a release agent (actually I'll probably mention it 2 or 3 times more just because I can).

Did I mention I was bored, So I uncovered my routing table (a Triton workcentre) spent about 3 hours trying to remove the old router bit which has been in there for a couple of years, add a can of rust release stuff and off it came, I only had one injury about 2.5cm (1") on my palm, this job was always going to be blood sweat and tears. (no tears yet!)

The routing table is probably best described as a plunge table, the router and bit sit underneath poking up through a hole in the table.
I forgot to take a photo of the stock before I started, but I just happened to order a few of them in different colours, so imagine the photo of the stock with green in it is actually blue, if you colour blind this bit is irrelevant. (lost you all yet ?):confused:

Yea Yea skip to the bloody photo's I know you just did that :rolleyes:

So I overlaid the walther Action <-- note the specific mention of Walther...
and started marking out the stock, I used a combination of the actual action & barrel overlaid on the stock and my calipers to measure to find the centreline and mark out the distances, I sat down and measured where I felt the best place for the trigger was and it all seemed to line up
pretty well, the good thing is the walther trigger has an adjustable position so If I'm out by up to 1cm it is correctable.

Then I Marked the routing table & stock with a line of liquid paper (using a liquid paper pen with a long metal nib, this gave me a guide on how far I could cut the trench

So off I went, cut the trench and it was a bit wonky, despite holding against the guard rail, i had slight movement, but a little sanding would fix it, I was fairly pleased with the overall results.

I then marked out the area for the trigger assembly, if you've pulled your rifle from the stock you'll see there are two major sections to it, the further down towards the trigger the smaller it gets.

Next I got my spade bit into my drill press and carefully placed blocks under the stock to level it marked out the positions then drilled out the main centre hole for the trigger all the way through the stock, (the smallest hole ~ 9mm wide) I used a carving drill bit, there's a photo of this bit below.

Then I drilled out about 4 or 5 larger holes (~16mm) holes. to a depth of about 38mm (sorry we work in mm) to form the main trigger assembly trench.

Next step was to sharpen my new set of chisels, tried to shave my arm with it and got my second cut :D (it was an accident honest !):eek:

I carefully chiseled the trench square, using a combination of chisel sizes and also a new Stanley knife (aka Box cutter/hobby knife).

the photo's show the hole a bit rough, however it is just the flash on the woodwork, it's fairly smooth, in any rate the bedding resin will fix that.

When I tested the action in the trench, it fitted perfectly, with a gap up front which was a little too long, I'll cut that square and use an offcut of the laminate to correct it.

When I tried the action in the stock I realised that once inserted the wood would prevent me removing the bolt.
To fix this I will cut away some of the cheek rest about 10mm or so, and then lower the top part of the bridge to allow the bolt to be removed.

I love intricate wood work like this, it's so rewarding, I'm impatient though ! I can't fit the action completely until I get my 1" round nose router bit :mad:

Once I've fitted, I can then determin if the trigger sticks through the hole in the bottom properly, if not I'll sand down the thickness of the stock and trim the action and barrel chanels accordingly.
So far no major issues.

Ok photo time. (let's face it you only read this to look at the photo's)

The first few photo's show a raw stock (remember the greeny coloured one I mentioned earlier .. no ?:confused::confused:

The other photo's will follow shortly.
I should also mention, I have never inletted a stock nor done anything to this level before so it's all new territory for me, any suggestions would be appreciated.


12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
This is the promised next set of photo's to go with the previous post. showing the trenches.
I think the key with inletting from reading and understanding how other people have done this is the bedding, you can afford to make minor mistakes with the wood channeling, because the action touches the stock and you use bedding material to provide 100% contact between the stock and action, the barrel does not touch the stock.

anyway enough typing, more pictures


12 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Ok, so I completed the inletting, the barrel channel is not perfect but once my 1" router bit arrives it can fix any rough bits.

Last night I purchased somefibre metal filler compound, which I think is polyester or similar with fibres of stainless steel and fibreglass.
It was a greenish blue colour, so I tested it on my test stock and coated a piece of wood in kiwi natural boot polish, then wait for hardening.
Once it hardened, I could remove the piece of wood very easily, so the boot polish works.
I then coated a piece of tinfoil in boot polish and did the same in the barrel channel, my thinking that If I can get tinfoil off without ripping then the action would be fine.
It all worked great.

So I commenced coating the area of the action that will touch the stock in boot polish, filling any little holes and gaps, using about 1/10th of the tin, not much really.
I then used the green painters tape (3M) to mask out the outside area (edges) of the action hole and the edges of the stock (glad I did that).
I then roughed up the area that I would coat with the filler, using a sharp chisel edge to dig some small holes.

I mixed the filler and hardener, and using some small flat sticks I spread the mix in the hole. the action coated in boot polish went in and I made sure the barrel was held up a millimetre or so the barrel was free floating.
I tightened the action screws and watched the stuff ooze out.
Using the same sticks i cleaned off the excess (glad of the painters tape at this point!

I left it for about an hour, removed it and it looks good, the painters tape came of nicely, I will have to sand the top of the stock to smooth out the filler.

anyone want to see photo's let me know.

12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
So I removed the action from the stock and what a crap job I did.
I can fully admit it now:(, the area at the rear of the action had no where near enough goop. (oh also I stuffed up and my shirt got caught in the sander !.:cool:
So I got out my 1 inch chisel carefully placed it on the edge between the wood and the dried goop.
A slight hit with my palm and the goo came away cleanly, i removed it all
sat back and had a think. coming away cleanly meant it had not adhered to the wood. there was light staining which indicated the kiwi polish had spread over the wood too.
I cleaned this up and drilled some micro holes in the action area, roughed it up with a wide chisel and then used some light sandpaper over the top of the holes containing the kiwi polish (release agent).

After re-masking the whole area, BTW do NOT attempt to do this without the green or blue masking tape or the natural boot polish.

In the photo's you will see how liberal I was with the polish & the tape.
The reason for this is that the goop (filler) sticks like S*** to anything.
The goop I bought from an auto shop and I made sure it was a metal filler, containing strands of stainless steel and also glass fibres. Once hardened this stuff feels as hard as concrete.

I put what I thought was too much goop (filler) and pushed the kiwi coated action into the stock. I also put a very thin piece of wood under the barrel sticking out the end.
to ensure the barrel is raised about 2mm above the wood stock.
Next I screwed in the action carefully and tested that I wasn't putting too much presure on the action/stock.

comments welcome


12 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I've revised my next steps, my neighbour a few doors down came over and checked out the stock, he's done a few in his time, and this was my first, I think he's quite impressed. but clearly I need bedding pilars, which he's offered to make for me, (thanks Kev !)
so my next steps now are;
1. drill out the stock to match the new pillars, probably about 1/2mm wider than the pilars with a 5mm hole (my screws are 4.85mm) to a length of 35mm. insert them into the stock with bedding material again.

2. Then lightly sand the top using a belt sander to get it smooth and even.

3. Coat the stock in polyurethane satin.

I just received my MOA adjustable scope rings, which mean I go shoot at this weekends benchrest and fly shoot. One of which is a 200yard rimfire event, the new rings should suit this event.

12 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Completed the Pillar bedding, sorry no photo's as they're hidden in the stock, all that's visible is holes 1mm larger than before.

I guess I can take a photo with the action removed, showing the pillars from the inside ? if anyone wants to see.

I'm sure I mentioned it before, but to anyone reading this is the first time
I have inletted or bedded a rifle stock. My background is IT but also military,
Never been afraid to try something new. I thoroughly enjoyed sitting outside in the cool of the evening sanding the wood back watching my creation take shape.
going into the workshop inletting fixing, stuffing up, and then fixing it.

Is anyone actually thinking of doing their own stock, I'm happy to give any guidance, I'm no expert but have learned a lot in the last few weeks. I've now
got two more stocks which I'd like to do.
1. for my Tikka T3 .223 (i want to rebarrel it to a heavy barrel)
2. buy a Rem700 action or second hand rifle, rebarrel it or else buy some other .308 action suitable (maybe an Omark .308?).
any thoughts would be welcome.

I shot the Walther in a benchrest match on the weekend and got a Personal Best (244.2 out of possible 250.25) at 100m (109 yards) equal second to a guy using a $3000 Anschutz, I was beaten by another custom made .22 worth thousands also.
We have classes of shooters to ensure our members compete with others at their level (AAA, AA, A, B, C classes) so with my historical scores being a C class using a standard CZ452, once I have a couple more shoots at this level my scores will push me to an A or AA class.
Quite pleased with the result.

12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Next rifle

G'day from Oz.

I posted a whole lot of photos and description of my last stock. All with very minimal feedback from just a couple of people.

I guess I'm wondering if this is of use or just an interesting curiosity for readers.

My questions to YOU the reader.
1. Have you ordered a stock from Richards microfit (rifle-stocks.com) or someone else ?
2. Have you or anyone you've shown this to been inspired to do their own stock ?
3. Where are you at with your stock ?
4. If you haven't done anything, is it becuase you think you don't have the skills?

I work 40+ hours a week, and my club duties and other duties take up another 30+ hours per week, plus family time and the odd TV show & shooting.
Whilst these posts are easy to read for you, they take a while for me to write. I am not looking for kudos or adoration or any other Bulls***

What I would like is:
1. Feedback - was it useful, crap, wrong, right, suggestions to make it easier.
2. What tools I could use to make life easier.
3. What you did different
4. Sources of stuff like bedding pillars.
5. Photo's of your work
6. Give me some interaction, even if it's just to say your inspired.

My woodworking skills all come from high school, which was way back in the 78-/80's, if I can do it so can you.

c'mon give it a go, I'm about to do my second action for my .223, unless there's feedback I won't post any more stuff.
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