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Discussion Starter #1
Well after being spoiled with my P6 & P7 I'm in the look for a P5 Walther..
I've seen a few P5s at decent prices lately, The two I've seen are listed at or around $525.. Ones at a local dealer & the other has been for sale at one of the local gunshows..
What sould I look for?
I notice the P5s have a locking block similar to the Beretta & P38.. Are they a problem?
Do the P5s shoot good & are parts easy to aquire & maintenance easy?
Is there anything special I should be aware of?
I've been looking around & would prefer a P5C but I've seen there prices going for way over $1000, Almost in the area of the HK P7s.. I prefer it's looks but have never handled one..
Also I've noticed that this entire forum hasn't had a post in the last few days now?
I'm realy happy with my Custom Walther PPK/S but would trade it in for a decent P5 or P5C.. .380acp is more expensive than 9mm Para..
But it doesn't eat much unless I shoot it & I have 5  other 9mms in my arsenal.. HK P7M8, SIG Sauer P225, Beretta92FS, Glock 19, & a Ruger SP101 9mm..
I haven't carried my PPK since I bought a 38 S&W Airweight Centenial 442, It only weighs 15ozs.
Well Am I crazy?? Maybe! But is the Walther P5 a piece that I can't live without?
I know I'm asking alot of questions at the P5 section of the Walther Forum but please give me your honest oppinions..
I've also been lookin into the Walther P88
That's another topic for the future, sometime after I pay my Taxes..
Besides The Knob Creek Machine Gun Shoot & Worlds Largest Military Gun Show Starts Here in town Next Friday!!
I'll be there!!
B92 [email protected]
 

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First off.....
look at them closely.... currently there is too many P5's out there.... all the police trades make it over here... though places like SOG sell them for $429 not bad.. but for a Police gun too much IMO
SOG
So you might find some with some ugly importmarkings.....
Mags are expensive.... around $70 for one
Impact guns had some factory ones in stock not too long ago... other than that you need to go to Earl's
The P5 is a must have.... I love it...
the trigger is far better than on the P99  IMHO
the only bad thing is... it is a single stack 8 round mag....
There are Nill grips to make the P5 look like a Diva in 5 inch heels.. or Hogue ones to make it look all black .. or just the ole factory ones...
And if you want a steal on a P5 and don't mind that it only comes with one mag
Here is a steal on one..... hurry it ends soon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've noticed that some have a trigger stop in the frame & others in the trigger??
Any Reason for the difference?
And after seeing that $429 price I won't pay one dime more than that from my two different suppliers..
Thanks Uncut!!
I've noticed the price drop on the P5s lately & I'm sure there all German police Turn Ins..
My P7M8 Police turn in/refurb was as new when I first aquired it, Never been shot..
It had the crappy mill mark that I had removed & then HardChrome & re engraving by Ford's..
Look into them for your PP 22 Project..
B92
 

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That price is a steal .... on all the guns this guy sells (auctionarms)
there is a .32 ACP...PPK/s this guy sells for 300$ LNIB German made Interarms import
H&K P70z for $300 NIB without paper and target (steal still)
Interarms made .380 PPK/s for 300$  NIB

I payd $665 shipped for mine LNIB.... Interarms marked

most go for $600 if they are not prior Police and even the Police turn ins on gunbroker are over 550$...

As for the  trigger stop... I have no clue as of why

My PP is no police trade in... just German marks.. not even Interarms.... but I think Ford will get the job once I am ready for it
 

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Hello,

On the first years of production, the trigger stop was on the trigger. Then (I don't know exactly when) it was placed on the frame. The P88 followed the same procedure. The change was probably due to manufacture costs: the T S on the trigger must be machined. If you place it on the frame, you can content with a pin.

I never heard about problems with the locking block in P5s: the block is more massive as in Berettas, as is the slide.

German Länder polices who used P5s for +25 years have put sometimes two reinforcement pins through the frame to keep the recoil springs in place when the pistol is dissassembled.  

Bye.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Man that's the kind of info I was lookin for..
I need more info on the P5
I've found several diagrams but nothing on a User manual etc
I stopped at Tilford's Gun sales after going to the Dentist & He was closed?
Beretta92 AKA RubberFace
Trying to eat now, What a PAIN!!
 

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Beretta-here are some more answers for you-

While I'm unaware of any real problems with any of the P5s (P5Cs are another issue-to be discussed later!), there have been several incrimental changes made subsequent to their 1978 initial issue  (Dieter Marschall covers these in detail in his excellent, and inexpensive book "Walther Pistols Models 1 Through P99"-you can get it from Earl's Repair at www.carlwalther.com).  The magazine release has gone through at least 3 improvements, and has been mentioned earlier, the trigger overtravel stop  from Dec 1990 on has been moved from the back of the trigger to the receiver frame (and made adjustable).  In an ideal world, I think that the best "find" would be a new-in-box post October 1992 P5, which would seem to have incorporated all incrimental improvements-such would be from serial #100730 on (the date code on the right side of the receiver would be KC, or with some later letter following the "K", such as KD or KE, etc.  The German proof date coding system assigns the letter K to signify 9 (as in 199_), and the letter A=0, B=1, C=2, D=3, E=4, F=5, G=6, H=7, J=8, and K=9; so I suppose that it's possible to find a 2000 or later P5 (although I personally haven't seen any); such would be date coded "A_".
And there are some variations-for example, while my P5 is a KC proof date, and a post-101 serial number, it doesn't have the new hammer that Dieter has specified-Walther is kind of like Colt it seems, in that changes are gradually phased into the ongoing production stream.  I've also seen a P5 with the larger, more billboardish-style of banner/manufacturer's markings (like those on the P5C) on the left side of the slide.

I am unaware of any locking block issues with the P5 line in its entirety.  Walther changed locking block fabrication in 1972 for the P38/P1 from a casting to a forging, so I assume that all P5s have forged locking blocks.  An earlier surplus P1 that I had did have suffer a cracked locking block after I'd had it for awhile, but to the best of my recollection it was one of the earlier cast pieces, and although the pistol was in excellent shape when I got it, it was a surplus Bundeswehr/Polizi piece-I have no idea how much it was shot, or what was shot in it prior to my possession.  The upshot is, I'm unaware of any locking block issues within the P5 line-and the good news is, is that if the locking block ever does fail, it's easy enough to replace and fit, as opposed to the cam piece on many competing designs, where you for all practical purposes would have to get a replacement receiver.

Accuracy and shootability of the P5s are excellent.  Be prepared for a slight "hitch" right before trigger let-off, as the trigger mechanism is used to physically raise the firing pin into position so that it can be struck by the hammer.  Point of impact can be adjusted for windage within the adjustable rear sight; for height Earl's Repair has several rear sight heights available if you need to address this.  Earl's stocks all necessary parts that I'm aware of-he's not cheap, but he is very knowledgeable and helpful, and is worth his due as he has taken the time to build up his business and knowledge for a relatively small marketing niche.  Unless you are buying a NIB pistol, I would immediately replace your recoil springs and magazine springs, as they can take a set and weaken over time-and weakened springs can allow frame battering to occur (regarding the recoil springs) and jams/malfunctions to occur (regarding the magazine springs).  Quality replacement springs can be found at Wolff Gunsprings (www.gunsprings.com).  Frankly, even if the pistol is NIB, I would probably replace these springs; I have been unimpressed with Walther magazine springs in particular (and another thing to check is that the magazine springs are properly installed/oriented with the magazine follower lying properly atop the spring).

Things to be aware of:  Grips-The plastic that Walther uses is crap-although they are attractive and well shaped.  I have found through painful (and expensive!) experience that this is the case with P1/P38, P5, P5C, and P88.  They are inordinately susceptible to cracking and crystallizing, which tends to occur at or in the vicinity of the grip screws.  They are also easily marred by a lot of cleaning/lubricating solvents.  I've discussed this at length with Earl Sheehan of Earl's; the short version is that many US cleansers/solvents are harsher than what the Germans use-Earl specifically recommends using Kleenbore's Formula Three CLP for cleaning and lubing, as it 1) does the job, and 2) is gentle enough (I also haven't encountered any problems with FP-10 as a CLP, and TW-25B grease, but I tend to err on the side of caution and generally stick with Formula Three for the most part). I ALSO had this problem even more significantly with a P5C, where there is a plastic grip filler piece incorporated into the grip backstrap, sandwiched by the grip plates-this filler piece retains the hammer strut, and provides the necessary leverage for the hammer strut and its spring to work.  The one on mine crystallized, cracked, and broke-rendering the gun unfireable.  I was NOT a happy camper, to say the least-again, the gun concerned was used, so I have not the foggiest as to how it was previously cleaned and maintained.  Fortunately, Earl's had the part, and my gunsmith was easily able to install it (with some guidance from Earl!).  Incidentally, this problem is limited to the P5C; on the P5, the hammer strut/spring is affixed to the aluminum frame itself.  But-for grips, on the P5, Hogue actually has a set of their rubber grips for the P5-and they've updated it a couple of times as well to reflect the incrimental changes made to the P5; they have an excellent feel, and are inexpensive.  To further (and more expensively) dress up the grips, Nill-Grips is probably the way to go-MacTec is their US vendor, and Ken Lunde has some beautiful pictures on the sigforum site as to how they look.

For carry, there are some excellent holsters out there for the P5-I've personally used and recommend Kramer (particularly their #3 IWB model), Blade-Tech, and The Wilderness (they make a very functional belt slide holster that the call the Zip-Slide).  If you can find 'em (and if they can make one for the P5), I'd also recommend Orca Custom; I've just picked up one of their nylon IWB holsters for my Beretta 92D, and am very impressed with it-and they're inexpensive too.   Earl's Repair is another good source for Walther-specific holsters.

For carry ammunition, I've chosen to remain with a standard-pressure load for my P5-Federal's Classic Hollowpoint, code #9BP.  This round has a excellent reputation for both accuracy and stopping power.

Well, this has been a fairly long answer to your questions-I hope you find it useful.  Best of luck in your search-let us know what you get-and feel free to ask away for any questions that you have.  While this isn't necessarily the busiest board, I've found it to be a very friendly and knowledgeable one.

Incidentally, if you (or anyone else is interested, I recently traded in my P5C at Bullseye Shooters Supply in Tacoma, WA, where they have it for sale for either $699 or $799.00-I forget which-it's in excellent shape, with some very minor freckling on the slide (which was there when I got it!)-and its got new grips and a new filler/hammer strut retention piece!

Best, Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Jon!! Very Helpfull..
I assume that on the P5 you hold the slide open with a empty magazine, Then remove it, Then move the switch down on the LH side then release the slide from the frame, Like a SIG..
I read here that the two recoil spring can be captive with a roll pin I believe??
I've found a few great pics in my quest & I'll share them in my next post..
Thanks again..
B92
 

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Field stripping is somewhat similar-remove magazine, clear chamber, AND THEN:  place the muzzle perpendicular to a surface (like on a mousepad or cleaning rag on a table), push downward slightly so that the barrel/slide assembly are forced slightly back, and then actuate the takedown lever.  The barrel/slide assembly can then be glided forward off the receiver.  Push the locking block plunger to dislodge the barrel from the slide, and then remove it.  Normally the locking block will remain attached to the barrel, but if it comes off, it's not abnormal, and easy enough to replace after cleaning and lubing.  Unless you want to remove the grips, that's really all you need to do to field-strip a P5 or P5C.

The dual recoil springs are normally held in place by a forged shelf niche on the receiver  that the fit into; the reeinforcement pins that Laurent talks about were to the best of my knowledge a field-expedient fix to help idiot proof the guns-the recoil springs are normally not removed in field stripping, as excessive removal/replacement could presumably 1)cause spring distortion/weakening by poor handling, 2)weaken the retaining niche due to improper removal and reassembly.  

Incidentally, for a manual, go to www.stevespages.com; there is a downloadable multilingual one there for the P5 (and MANY other guns!)
Best, Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks!!
I checked out the manual but am gonna take an in depth look at it tomarrow...
B92
 

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[b said:
Quote[/b] ]The German proof date coding system assigns the letter K to signify 9 (as in 199_), and the letter A=0, B=1, C=2, D=3, E=4, F=5, G=6, H=7, J=8, and K=9
Actually, I believe the date code is specific to the manufacturer. My P5 is datecoded IF which would be 1985. I believe that Walther uses the I and skips the J, while others, like HK, skip the I and use J.
 

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I believe I got this one at a good price...I will let you know when it comes in. Next I want some Nill grips. Any suggestions?
 

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I think you did very good..... and it sure looks like NIB also...

both of the Walthers this guy sold however were only with one mag.... I wonder why.... but I wouldn't worry about it too much... with the great price you can buy some extras.....

As for the Nills... here they are

you might have to do some fitting work... but it is minor... I have heard from 3 people (4 myself including) that minor work needs to be done.... if you get them and they won't fit I will point you in the direction and send you some pics of where mine needed work...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You did good Jake Starr!!
That's agreat lookin specimen..
Keep us informed!!
And Mac-Tec is a great guy to deal with as well..
He's a member at a few other forums that I visit, PCT the Cult of the P7 & The Sigforum..
I scored My P7 first then the P6 & now am lookin for a nice P5, Will it ever end?
Damn Germans & thier Great Pistols
B92
 

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Hello,

John is right, these reinforcements pins were installed on heavy shot P5, where the frame recesses were worn and let the springs escape during field stripping. Orv Reichert of the p38forum did write about that.

It was a expedient mesure by German police amorers on weapons used for about 25 years. P5 afficionados don't need to frighten about this...
 

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Thanks guys. I am really looking forward to this P-5. I will keep you posted...Beretta92...We may need to meet up some time at Knob Creek or Bluegrass Indoor range and shoot sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'll be at Knob Creek early Friday Morning..
I would be the Red Neck in Camo carryin an HK
 
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