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Discussion Starter #1
I wandered in here a few months ago after purchasing a near new S&W PPK/S-1.  I was famillar with Walther and have owned several, and while this was my third PPK/S, I had sort of lost track of a supplier I knew for reduced power springs and I needed the real story on which grips would fit my pistol.  

I found many helpful tidbits and I did ultimately find the springs I was looking for made by a gunsmith in Wisconsin.  I also found the S-1 left a lot to be desired in the action as well as the fit and finish.  My S-1 looked like it had been in a vice with heavy marks on the chamber and barrel, lots of rough edges and poorly finished sides.  I was particularly offended by the laser etched serial number and maker's mark Smith chose to apply (although I have seen what they have done to later S-1's and am thankful it wasn't worse).  For those who haven't thought about it the laser leaves a very rough dark surface at the point it works.  It didn't match the other markings on the pistol all of which are chemically applied.  

Mechanically and aestetically this gun was a mess.  With a 23 pound double action trigger and a surface that was better suited to something found in a tool box than a gun case I went to work.  

Don't ask how many hours I have in this piece.  Maybe 12 maybe 15 not including locating the parts used.  I'm not totally done.  I still need to put the slide on a buffer but I've recently moved and the buffer is packed away.  I must tell you  what I ended up with isn't exactly what I started out looking for.  I wanted an upscale carry piece I could be proud to wear and own for a lifetime.  It is all that and more.  I chose grips by Karl Nill for two reasons. 1).  They are the finest grips in the world and 2).  They are German.  I opted for the PP PPK/S grips without the thumbrest for purely functional reasons.  This piece if called on will need to be fired from either the right side or the left.  The pistol now enjoys an 11 pound double action trigger and a 7 pound single action pull.

I did something many of you will think I am crazy for.  I removed the chemically applied etchings which cluttered up the slide and in doing so finished the job Smith & Wesson started by using chemicals when putting on the Walther markings.  They are all gone, all of them.  I didn't intend to take them off.  I said earlier this project became something I hadn't intended, this is what I meant. In order to remove the machine marks from the slide they had to go.  Without it's Walther identity I think it is what Smith intended but was afraid to do.  I like the result.  It really never was a Walther. I think that's ok.  You may or may not agree.  


The Nill Grips went on with zero fitting and were worth every penny.  I strongly suggest using a proper fitting screwdriver, in this case Brownell's 240-3.  The threads are as the grips are, a precision fit.  http://www.nill-griffe.de/







 

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Very nice......
Now you need to get a set of the "stippled" Nills for your PPK/S.... once you have those in your hands you will never got back....
I have a set of Nills on my P5 and my P7
they are truly worth every penny.....

The outcome of your PPK/s is truly classy.. and you are correct... what a pistol should look like...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I liked the stippled Nills.  The only ones I found listed were with the thumbrest.  I don't want to know if they come stippled without.  lalalalalala.

I just went back to look.  They are only offered in stippled with a thumb rest. Whew

COMBAT
An ergonomic, symmetrical grip, without finger grooves and thumb rest
Size: Standard
Hand: both
Material: Walnut
Surface: Rhomlas, oiled

Product class: A

ArtNo.: WA1058
87.10 Dollar


Details    

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COMBAT
With thumbrest
Size: Standard
Hand: right
Material: Walnut
Surface: stippled, laquered

Product class: B

ArtNo.: WA107
102.70 Dollar


Details
 

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Michael: Nice, man and I'm glad you are happy with the gun. They do need a lot of work, don't they?

I noticed that our frames are different. The milled cut for the trigger guard pin is different on the later S-1 frames with the milled space for the S/N. I like your frame, the lines seems cleaner and it is nice the Nills fit properly. At the moment, this is not the case with the later frame.

I also notice your trigger guard seems bent. Check the slide stop part of the trigger guard, you may have a reduced contact area. May not be a big deal, but do not know with a reduced spring.

Regards,

R
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The ill fitting trigger gaurd is pretty representative of the way the gun looked before I started.  I'm really not sure I want to do anything about it but now it seems like a shame not to.  I have done similar repairs and the can of worms you open is sometimes so much worse than the original problem it just ends up being an ordeal...  It was probably how they got the vice marks on the barrel.

It is only on the one side and it is just that leading edge that is the problem.  Perhaps a piece of hardwood between the frame and the gaurd and by using a mallet and a hardwood dowel I can adjust it to better fit the contour of the frame.   Anyone have an idea on this feel free to offer a suggestion??? I thought about using smooth flat pliers wrapped in leather to sraighten that edge out. I dunno.
 

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Why don't you just buy a replacement? Numrich lists them for $35 or so, probably blued. S&W may give you a deal at $25. For all I know it could be a MIM part. Don't know how well it would fare under some determined mechanical persuation.

It is hard to replace, and I suspect it may have been bent during R&R. If you think the other Walther springs are heavy, wait till you try the plunger spring.
 
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