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Discussion Starter #1
I need the support of "MGMike". Hello everyone, I just bought this PPK from Interarms, I need the help of some expert from the forum, the weapon is really new, the owner has it saved since he bought it, the mechanism is very firm, I tried to remove and slide the recoil spring to clean it, however, no matter how hard you try, you can not pull it out or slide up. That could be happening? Can someone guide me because the gun is very new what could be happening? I have not shot it yet. Olsul, a member here told me about this forum and that he was looking for "MGMike", he knows everything, sorry if my English and my terms are not so good. Thank you.
 

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I am thinking that the previous owner replaced the recoil spring backwards. I remember MGMike had a solution to this issue but try as I might I can't find it in search so I suggested prime reach out to MGMike for help as he has forgotten more about Rangers than the rest of us will know.
 

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There are three methods; any of them will probably work.

1) It's unlikely that the recoil spring is in backward. If you can't get the slide off because the spring might be in backward, how did the previous owner (who kept it new in the safe) get it back on after reversing the spring?

The problem more likely is that the spring is too long or too heavy and is "going solid" before the slide reaches the disassembly point. Stop trying to disassemble the pistol. Take it out and shoot a box of ammo through it. That probably will distort the spring enough that one or more coils will nest, thereby increasing the slide's available travel. Then go home and try disassembly again.

OR

2) Remove the grips, pull down the trigger guard and prop it open with a thin piece of plastic. Now clamp the frame in a leather-padded bench vise, being VERY careful to grip it up high where there are internal webs that support the frame. THE POINT IS TO AVOID CRUSHING THE FRAME. To avoid scratches, cover the frame flats with vinyl electrical tape. Do not clamp the frame where you will be squeezing the mag catch or the sear.

With the frame securely held by the vise, use both hands to retract the slide smartly, as far as it will go, then pull up on the rear. At some point it did go on, so it will come off.

OR

3) Take it to a gunsmith.

In any event, once it's off, order a new lighter spring from Wolff's.

M
 

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Mike it was my supposition that the spring was reversed because that had happened to a previous person and you had solved their issue.
 

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If it's not the spring that isn't compressing enough for the back to lift up it could be part 32 on this diagram. Mine walked out slightly causing assembly and disassembly issues.


Before I figured it out I had to push the slide to the left when it was back all the way to get it to clear the frame.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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General question, but could incipient steel galling be adding just enough extra grippiness to prevent full travel or release?
 

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As an alternate, related choice to Mike's #2, hold the trigger guard open (coin/plastic), and push the slide's front, above the barrel, against a non-marring surface, like the edge of a workbench. This may create enough movement to lift the rear of the slide.
Moon
 

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As an alternate, related choice to Mike's #2, hold the trigger guard open (coin/plastic), and push the slide's front, above the barrel, against a non-marring surface, like the edge of a workbench. This may create enough movement to lift the rear of the slide.
Moon
Moon: I never enjoyed much success with that method. It can be done, but there is not much purchase on the slide around the barrel of a PP-series Walther to keep it from slipping off whatever you're pushing against.

The principle, however, is sound. It's much easier if one uses a wooden dowel down the barrel seated against the breech face, leaving enough dowel protruding from the muzzle to obtain a full slide stroke. Then push the dowel against a vertical surface.

I do that sometimes to free up a case stuck in a pistol chamber when the extractor won't let go.

M
 

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I used the above method too on one of my PPs.
 

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Don't know if this would work on a PP, as I don't have one. But, in the past, I've used a piece of PVC plastic pipe, maybe 6" long, where the ID is an rch larger then the OD of the barrel. Place the PVC pipe on the floor, put the muzzle on the pipe, now, put your weight on the pistol. With any luck the slide well be pushed rearward as the barrel disappears inside the PVC pipe.

That works on PPQ's for sure.
 

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If I remember correctly the OP has a couple of other PP pistols and is familiar with the process. I think that didn't get mentioned in this thread. Several good suggestions...I'd suggest just man up, grab that sucker and slam it rearward....like Mike said...someone pressed it all rearward enough to install the slide. You can't slam it any harder than a fired round will. What goes on will come off. 1917
 

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... Place the PVC pipe on the floor, put the muzzle on the pipe, now, put your weight on the pistol. ...
That's tedious. At my age, I gotta get down on my knees to do it that way.

It's easier to bore a hole in any convenient vertical surface near enough to its bottom edge to clear the frame.

M
 

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Discussion Starter #14
There are three methods; any of them will probably work.

1) It's unlikely that the recoil spring is in backward. If you can't get the slide off because the spring might be in backward, how did the previous owner (who kept it new in the safe) get it back on after reversing the spring?

The problem more likely is that the spring is too long or too heavy and is "going solid" before the slide reaches the disassembly point. Stop trying to disassemble the pistol. Take it out and shoot a box of ammo through it. That probably will distort the spring enough that one or more coils will nest, thereby increasing the slide's available travel. Then go home and try disassembly again.

OR

2) Remove the grips, pull down the trigger guard and prop it open with a thin piece of plastic. Now clamp the frame in a leather-padded bench vise, being VERY careful to grip it up high where there are internal webs that support the frame. THE POINT IS TO AVOID CRUSHING THE FRAME. To avoid scratches, cover the frame flats with vinyl electrical tape. Do not clamp the frame where you will be squeezing the mag catch or the sear.

With the frame securely held by the vise, use both hands to retract the slide smartly, as far as it will go, then pull up on the rear. At some point it did go on, so it will come off.

OR

3) Take it to a gunsmith.

In any event, once it's off, order a new lighter spring from Wolff's.

M
Hello Mike, you are absolutely right about any of the theories, in fact I already tried some since I got it last week, at the time I tried to open it in front of the salesman to see how much use he had or the maintenance they would have given him, I could not enter and I supposed, I'll do it the next day because it was already night. The mechanism is so strong and in perfect condition that maybe it was part of that, the next day I tried to pull hard and twice I hurt both palms of my hand, I bled (as if you mentioned it) Mike hahaha). The second direction is on one side and another, however, you do not feel that you get up a little, nothing, you believe, you take care of yourself, you shoot so that the mechanism loosens (as you mentioned Mike)), without However, I can not have the shooting range all week and, for the first time, I have a lot of work, I will go to Monday and I will try the options that everyone gives me. However, we will not know until it opens.

Mike, in case the product is incorrect, be, be, say, that is, what's new?
Thank you very much, I keep you informed. regards
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Mike it was my supposition that the spring was reversed because that had happened to a previous person and you had solved their issue.

This idea that you mention without a doubt seems to me also a good option, it is a theory that sounds correct, the point is that we will not know until it is opened, your suggestion to open it which is Olsoul. Thank you very much for your support and management with Mike and the others.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello, I have two doubts,
1. How did you manage to open it the first time and remove the slide?
2. The piece 32 that you mention what function it has, and know who advised you to tell you that it was the piece that was wrong?

I appreciate your information, greetings!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don't know if this would work on a PP, as I don't have one. But, in the past, I've used a piece of PVC plastic pipe, maybe 6" long, where the ID is an rch larger then the OD of the barrel. Place the PVC pipe on the floor, put the muzzle on the pipe, now, put your weight on the pistol. With any luck the slide well be pushed rearward as the barrel disappears inside the PVC pipe.

That works on PPQ's for sure.

Hello, the test you did was about a PPKs? and with the force of that blow opened? i appreciate you
 

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Discussion Starter #18
As an alternate, related choice to Mike's #2, hold the trigger guard open (coin/plastic), and push the slide's front, above the barrel, against a non-marring surface, like the edge of a workbench. This may create enough movement to lift the rear of the slide.
Moon
It is not damaged if so much force is applied, without a doubt I know it is steel, and it is in a well-controlled slide, but I do not know if any part of the mechanism suffers something?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Moon: I never enjoyed much success with that method. It can be done, but there is not much purchase on the slide around the barrel of a PP-series Walther to keep it from slipping off whatever you're pushing against.

The principle, however, is sound. It's much easier if one uses a wooden dowel down the barrel seated against the breech face, leaving enough dowel protruding from the muzzle to obtain a full slide stroke. Then push the dowel against a vertical surface.

I do that sometimes to free up a case stuck in a pistol chamber when the extractor won't let go.

M
Mike, the slide is pushed back putting it as you mention, all the force back that is where it should go I guess?
 

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That's tedious. At my age, I gotta get down on my knees to do it that way.

It's easier to bore a hole in any convenient vertical surface near enough to its bottom edge to clear the frame.

M
To make this easier, I actually used a scrap piece of wood....a 2x6...cut a 5 1/2" piece off, drilled a hole in the center of the board, not all the way thru, just about an inch. The diameter of the hole was a tight fit for the piece of PVC pipe. I hammered/pressed the piece of PVC pipe into the hole, and now I've got a nice base holding the pipe in a vertical position.

Now for those that are vertically challenged...meaning their knees and/or back limit their ability to bend over.....well, they can place this block of wood on the work bench, put the muzzle on the end of the pipe and lean on the pistol.

On a pistol with a 'fixed' barrel, this works perfectly.

On a pistol with a 'tilting' barrel, you may need to cut a window in the side of the PVC pipe for the barrel to arc up into. That's what I did for my PPQ.
 
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