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Sorry, I don't have the answer. However, it looks like those base pads should work with the funnel. If not, see where they're making contact and file/sand down/trim/remove that part of the base pad. I did that to a 17 rounder....kept inserting, checking for fit and would then remove the mag and base pad and do a little whittling on the base pad...also had to use a little JB Weld on the base pad as there's a hollow portion in front....I filled the hollow portion full of epoxy, then did my skulpting.

Here ya go....a 17 rounder and a 20 rounder.



Here's the skulpted 17 rounder.



You could save some money by just modifying your stock plastic base pads. AND, they'll still work in a Q without the magwell flare...may look a little odd...so don't look at it. :D

OH, and if you use a 15 rounder, it'll disappear inside the magwell flare. I'd recommend modifying a 17 rounder. OR, just buy some of the +6 extensions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sorry, I don't have the answer. However, it looks like those base pads should work with the funnel. If not, see where they're making contact and file/sand down/trim/remove that part of the base pad. I did that to a 17 rounder....kept inserting, checking for fit and would then remove the mag and base pad and do a little whittling on the base pad...also had to use a little JB Weld on the base pad as there's a hollow portion in front....I filled the hollow portion full of epoxy, then did my skulpting.

Here ya go....a 17 rounder and a 20 rounder.



Here's the skulpted 17 rounder.



You could save some money by just modifying your stock plastic base pads. AND, they'll still work in a Q without the magwell flare...may look a little odd...so don't look at it. <img src="http://www.waltherforums.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin" class="inlineimg" />

OH, and if you use a 15 rounder, it'll disappear inside the magwell flare. I'd recommend modifying a 17 rounder. OR, just buy some of the +6 extensions.
I wish I could do that but I’m in NJ so I’m restricted to 10 rd magazines
 

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I wish I could do that but I’m in NJ so I’m restricted to 10 rd magazines
In that case you probably don't want to run the standard length 15 round mag (restricted to 10) cuz it'll disappear into the magwell (funnel). A 17 round extension just barely hangs out.

On the other hand, if you are going to persist, then you might consider using a base plate for a P99C. This little 'squared off' base plate should clear that flared magwell.
 

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Dont buy a TF magwell. The inside edge of the flared magwell does Not line up with the inside edge of either the Q5 poly or SF. It is not even close. I bought one and it is just a paper weight. Hoping someone else makes one since Walther has not made individual sale of their SF magwells available yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dont buy a TF magwell. The inside edge of the flared magwell does Not line up with the inside edge of either the Q5 poly or SF. It is not even close. I bought one and it is just a paper weight. Hoping someone else makes one since Walther has not made individual sale of their SF magwells available yet.
what do you mean? i've seen hundreds of pictures of people that have it installed and everything works great
 

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Dont buy a TF magwell. The inside edge of the flared magwell does Not line up with the inside edge of either the Q5 poly or SF. It is not even close. I bought one and it is just a paper weight. Hoping someone else makes one since Walther has not made individual sale of their SF magwells available yet.
NSS. Gumbo, its that bottom edge of the magwell and the top edge of the magazine base pad that, together, limit 'over insertion' of the magazine.

The TF magwell funnel is designed perfectly. I've got Walther and TF magwells...they're exactly the same....fit the same.....the only difference is the 'TF' logo and 'Walther' logo engraved on the side.

Use a spare PPQ, or remove the funnel and do this. Remove the slide....use the frame only. Insert a magazine into the empty magwell of a frame. Push the mag UP until it stops. WHAT stopped the magazine? Answer: The base pad hitting the bottom of the magwell. Now remove the basepad, spring and follower from the magazine. Insert the empty mag body into the magwell. WHAT stopped the magazine? Answer: The magazine stopped when the mag body hits the ejector. THATS THE REASON THE BASE PAD NEEDS TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME. And THAT's the reason the TF and Walther magwells are designed like they are....It's to allow the base pad to make contact with the bottom of the frame, which keeps the magazine from 'whackin' into the ejector.
 

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...And THAT's the reason the TF and Walther magwells are designed like they are....It's to allow the base pad to make contact with the bottom of the frame, which keeps the magazine from 'whackin' into the ejector.
This is important information that should keep folks from making the mistake of modifying their base pads. :D
 

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THATS THE REASON THE BASE PAD NEEDS TO MAKE CONTACT WITH THE BOTTOM OF THE FRAME. And THAT's the reason the TF and Walther magwells are designed like they are....It's to allow the base pad to make contact with the bottom of the frame, which keeps the magazine from 'whackin' into the ejector.
This is very important, I only learned this after "funneling" my frame for smoother mag changes. My ejector was getting slammed up with every mag change which caused it to make contact with the slide, thus the pistol stopped operating properly. I solved the problem by simply extending up the pin in my base pads so the make contact before the mag hits the ejector but that's only temporary, I will either need to use a screw instead of the retaining pin in the base pad or flatten a spot on the retaining pin to keep it from sliding down.
 

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Good ole days

Back in ancient times (late 80's) those of us who added flared magwells to our 1911's realized the mag base pads weren't long enough to assure full insertion.

We glued on rubber pads to the bases with contact cement. Worked great. Pachmayer came out with a well made production version.

My TF magwell fits perfect and I'm using the TF mag extensions. For those of you in NJ I advise:


Move out of New Jersey, I highly recommend Texas or cut a piece of thick mouse pad to match your mag base and glue it on with contact cement.
 

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My ejector was getting slammed up with every mag change which caused it to make contact with the slide, thus the pistol stopped operating properly.
I'm surprised it bent. Most of them break, as they are not designed to take the impact of a mag being slammed into the bottom of them. I'd look into replacing the ejector (sear housing) if this was also a defensive pistol.

This can also lead to a safety issue. Depending on how that ejector bent, extracting a live round can cause the primer to impact this bent ejector, and the cartridge can explode with an open ejection port. You shouldn't be doing this anyways, on any pistol, but make sure your hand doesn't cover the ejection port when extracting live rounds.
 

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NSS. Gumbo, its that bottom edge of the magwell and the top edge of the magazine base pad that, together, limit 'over insertion' of the magazine.

imanoldfart: thank you for the education. I obviously needed it.

The primary reason that i wanted a Flared Magwell was for smoother and more reliable reloads during competitions. As you very eloquently explained, the shelf cannot be eliminated, thus adding this Flared Magwell does very little if anything at all to enhance reloads, at least for me.

I will give it a go only to extend the overall length of my grip to avoid pinching of my hand during reloads. Other than that, I don’t yet see a benefit toinstalling a Flared Magwell on my Q5
 

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I'm surprised it bent. Most of them break, as they are not designed to take the impact of a mag being slammed into the bottom of them. I'd look into replacing the ejector (sear housing) if this was also a defensive pistol.

This can also lead to a safety issue. Depending on how that ejector bent, extracting a live round can cause the primer to impact this bent ejector, and the cartridge can explode with an open ejection port. You shouldn't be doing this anyways, on any pistol, but make sure your hand doesn't cover the ejection port when extracting live rounds.
It is on my Q5 match so not for defensive use. I will end up replacing the sear housing eventually. It has been bent up and then bent back down by me multiple times, I'm guessing it didn't break because it would make contact with the side first. I wanted to kick myself after finding out the reason. However a few things to note, this only happens with my mags that have taran tactical base pads, the stock +2 base pad and flat base pads still stop at the frame. Second, if I would have left at least the rearward part of the grip un beveled I wouldn't have this problem
 
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