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Discussion Starter #1
When I finally get to the wall I feel the trigger pull is fine. However getting there seems awkward to say the least. Does anyone else experience grittiness before reaching the wall? It seems like you have already reached the wall but in reality you only seem to have hit a gritty pull wiith more pull necessary before actualy reachinig the wall. Is this common? If so is there a fix? Or do I have a faulty PPQ trigger? New to Walther PPQ. Not new to firearms. Thanks for any help. All comments appreciated.
 

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When I finally get to the wall I feel the trigger pull is fine. However getting there seems awkward to say the least. Does anyone else experience grittiness before reaching the wall? It seems like you have already reached the wall but in reality you only seem to have hit a gritty pull wiith more pull necessary before actualy reachinig the wall. Is this common? If so is there a fix? Or do I have a faulty PPQ trigger? New to Walther PPQ. Not new to firearms. Thanks for any help. All comments appreciated.
I bitched about the trigger on mine since the day I bought it. Sent it back to Customer Service, they put a new trigger assembly in with no effect. I put in an Apex trigger and all was well with the world. I think the Apex was about $85. There are videos on YouTube that show you how to install the trigger. Your current problem is very common.
 

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I bitched about the trigger on mine since the day I bought it. Sent it back to Customer Service, they put a new trigger assembly in with no effect. I put in an Apex trigger and all was well with the world. I think the Apex was about $85. There are videos on YouTube that show you how to install the trigger. Your current problem is very common.
Sounds like you are happy with your setup. I agree the Apex is better.

Recently, I've started using the Overwatch Precision trigger in my PPQs. It's another option.

In my hopefully humble opinion, its an excellent option, being slightly "cleaner" feeling than the Apex.

Both are excellent though and it might come down to personal preference as to which feels better to you.
 

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When I finally get to the wall I feel the trigger pull is fine. However getting there seems awkward to say the least. Does anyone else experience grittiness before reaching the wall? It seems like you have already reached the wall but in reality you only seem to have hit a gritty pull wiith more pull necessary before actualy reachinig the wall. Is this common? If so is there a fix? Or do I have a faulty PPQ trigger? New to Walther PPQ. Not new to firearms. Thanks for any help. All comments appreciated.
There are numerous threads and posts on your subject question but I selected this one because it was authored by one of the more experienced members who lays out technical discussions in easy to understand "red neck" terms. Take a look at this thread and I believe you will have the info necessary to improve any grit and pre-travel issues you have.

Just one comment.....changing all the springs including the striker safety spring is not required to smooth out the trigger pull. All I did was a good "red neck" smoothing of contact points, change the TRS and replace the factory trigger with the Apex. Ultra smooth, very minimal pre-travel and a 1911 break (for me).

 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just a BIG THANKS for all the help. Glad I was not alone with this issue and not just imagining it..
 

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I've yet to meet a PPQ gritty trigger that I couldn't fix in about 15 minutes. 😁

Referring to the picture below, the area indicated in 'A' is where the trigger bar guide rubs on the trigger bar. This area has to be smooth as well as lubed. I've seen quite a few trigger bars where this area was a little rough. I've had good luck with inserting a small piece of 'sticky backed' sandpaper (320 or 400) between the trigger bar guide and the trigger bar and pulling the trigger back and forth 30 times or so.

The area indicated in 'B' rubs against the side of the sear housing. Once again, I use a small piece of sandpaper inserted between the side of the trigger bar and the sear housing and pull the trigger. When the sticky side is against the sear housing I just pull the trigger and try to hold the sandpaper in place so the side of the trigger bar is rubbing on the sandpaper. Next, I'll insert another piece of sand paper with the stick side against the trigger bar and pull the trigger. I usually have to hale the sand paper move back and forth as I'm pulling the trigger. We're just knocking off any burrs.

Once completed, use some pressed air and or cleaner to blow out and clean the areas, then apply some lube. The area where the trigger bar rubs on the trigger bar guide is commonly missed when lubing.....its GOT to be lubed.

I also use some sticky backed sandpaper, stuck to a Popsicle stick to do a little sanding on the trigger bar tab that contacts the FPB (tab not shown in the picture below). I also remove the FPB and do a little work on it as well.....just a few strokes on the lobe/ramp where it contacts the tab. Once again, clean er' up and apply some lube.


93478
 

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I've yet to meet a PPQ gritty trigger that I couldn't fix in about 15 minutes. 😁

Referring to the picture below, the area indicated in 'A' is where the trigger bar guide rubs on the trigger bar. This area has to be smooth as well as lubed. I've seen quite a few trigger bars where this area was a little rough. I've had good luck with inserting a small piece of 'sticky backed' sandpaper (320 or 400) between the trigger bar guide and the trigger bar and pulling the trigger back and forth 30 times or so.

The area indicated in 'B' rubs against the side of the sear housing. Once again, I use a small piece of sandpaper inserted between the side of the trigger bar and the sear housing and pull the trigger. When the sticky side is against the sear housing I just pull the trigger and try to hold the sandpaper in place so the side of the trigger bar is rubbing on the sandpaper. Next, I'll insert another piece of sand paper with the stick side against the trigger bar and pull the trigger. I usually have to hale the sand paper move back and forth as I'm pulling the trigger. We're just knocking off any burrs.

Once completed, use some pressed air and or cleaner to blow out and clean the areas, then apply some lube. The area where the trigger bar rubs on the trigger bar guide is commonly missed when lubing.....its GOT to be lubed.

I also use some sticky backed sandpaper, stuck to a Popsicle stick to do a little sanding on the trigger bar tab that contacts the FPB (tab not shown in the picture below). I also remove the FPB and do a little work on it as well.....just a few strokes on the lobe/ramp where it contacts the tab. Once again, clean er' up and apply some lube.


View attachment 93478
Thank you for the instruction and the picture. I've read many times about smoothing things out but NEVER have I had someone actually show what and where to apply the fix. Thanks again.
 

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Got the same issue after firing a ton of rounds during a 2 day competition. All I did was..

Used some pressed air and cleaner and cotton patches between the slide and the trigger and blow out and clean the areas, then apply some lube. The area where the trigger bar rubs on the trigger bar guide is commonly missed when lubing.....its GOT to be lubed.

Did not have to use sand paper. It was just very dirty and the grit came from powder stuck between the slide and the trigger bar. Kept it lubed and all is well again did not have to scratch my gun.
 

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I just went through this with my Q5 Match SF. Out of the box the trigger was horrible. The first stage was crunchy and gritty. A good bit of creep before break and a little more over-travel than I'd like. I polished the trigger parts in the recommended places and that helped. However, I finally figured out that the biggest part of the problem was the firing pin block. I polished the firing pin block surface where it contacts the transfer bar and then polished the body of the block where it touches the recess in the slide. At the same time I installed a pair of Springco springs and the trigger now has a reasonably smooth first stage (even through the firing pin block sequence) with a lighter pull, but the creep and over-travel are still there. About an hours worth work and about $20 in springs and it's the way it should have come from the factory.
 
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