[Holescreek]

My wife and I just got back from the range tonight after shooting her new P22 for the very first time. We bought this gun specifically for her because of it's very light weight and small grip. Prior to the P22 she had only shot one of my old High Standards but they are too heavy for her to shoot very long.

I have read that the SA pull is around 4.5# and while not great for target shooting, it isn't too bad. The trigger on ours feels like it could use some polishing to remove some burrs or something. The pull gets very hard just before release. Has anybody here done any work on their triggers?

-Mike

 

[Holescreek]

I took a look at it today, The disconnect and trigger steps are visible with the slide off and the hammer pulled back. I decided that the trigger creep was due less from burrs than it was from over-cautious design. I can pull the trigger back about 1/8" and then release to remove the creep, then re-aim and squeeze and get the pull-release that the trigger should have.

Rather than doing any work on the system I chose to apply some Lubriplate to the mating surfaces. A trip back to the range tomorrow should tell if it is effective.

 

[Charlie]

i look forward to the results

 

[Holescreek]

Just back from the range. The Lubriplate seemed to relieve some of the felt drag but there is still a lot of creep on the way to release. If it was going to be my gun to shoot regularly I would make a couple of mods. to the system immediately. Since it's my wife's gun and she's just learning I'll leave well enough alone and see how it works out.
I'm having a lot of trouble classifying the P22. I guess you'd just call it a plinker due to the heavy trigger. I can see the laser dot wandering all over the target as she squeezes the trigger but it's only her second time shooting it and she's keeping most of them in a 6" circle at 50'.

 

[Holescreek]

I finally got some time to work on the P22 this morning (I work nights). I followed some of the suggestions gleened from the AR15/walther site and modified (slightly) a few of the internals. I stoned & polished the hammer step and sear which took about 75% of the creep out and reshaped the ejector face to get the spent shells to kick out to the side (at my wife's insistance). I stoned & polished a few other parts that were either stamped or cast just to even them up a little too. Unlike many others I chose to leave the mag safety intact.

I put it all back together and it is so smooth that for the first time I could feel the drag on the slide when it was pulled back over the hammer. A couple of hits with a 3M fiber wheel smoothed the rough hammer face right out.

About that time UPS showed up with the new red dot sight and mount.

Hopefully I will have something posative to say about it all on Saturday. -Mike

 

[majette]

cool! have any pics or a link to the site you referenced?

 

[uncut]

http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=5&f=27


look for the post "how I made my p22 not suck" .....there is more info than you know what to do with

 

[majette]

http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=5&f=27


look for the post "how I made my p22 not suck" .....there is more info than you know what to do with

i bought my first p22 last year brand new with laser, came with blued mags. shot every type of ammo, every time. was stolen out of my car a few months later. got a used one about two weeks ago, supposed low round count. mine had about 500 rounds through it, this one supposedly had less than 200 but has a lot more wear on the barrel and controls. shot it when i first got it and then went again today. has the newer stainless mags, will not fire federal match ammo consistently. fails to cycle, had some primer strikes without firing. tried some thunderbolt, one ftf out of 50 rounds. had one instance where the safety engaged after firing a mag, i ejected, reloaded, pulled the trigger and went wtf? saw the safety lever was down, swiped it up and continued to shoot. this one is not as accurate as my first as well. i did not have any stingers to try, maybe they are the answer. (as i said my first one shot everything but i did shoot stingers in it mostly) i don't think i will keep this one so if anyone is in southeast/central/northern VA and wants it, i will let it go very reasonably. i looked at the ar15.com thread, should not be a problem to get the small mods done, i am just not one to do them. i am not put off on the p22, just this one.

 

[Holescreek]

i looked at the ar15.com thread, should not be a problem to get the small mods done, i am just not one to do them. i am not put off on the p22, just this one.

This seems to be a very common theme with P22's. I wonder why Walther/S&W does not pick up on this? The fixes only take a few minutes to do and from what I here take care of all of the major issues. They are probably selling quite a few of them now but eventually their reputation for FTF and FTE will become legendary and they will fall into the throw-away gun category. On the other hand, fixing the issues would raise the P22 to a higher status.

I do not understand why S&W is allowing this to continue. -Mike

 

[uncut]

The P22, G22 and most likely the SP22 (not sure since it's not out yet) are all made by Walther's parent copany Umrex and only have the Walther banner on them.... you can see this by the proofhouse mark also......
complaints need to be directed to Umarex... and I am sure they have heared enough from S&W.... but you never know

 

[Holescreek]

I googled Umarex and from their various websites they only appear to make replica pellet guns. I could not find any association with Walther other than that. -Mike

 

[uncut]

http://www.carl-walther.info/dev2/index.php?company=walther&lang=EN&content=unternehmen&sub=konzern

The info about the P22, G22 and maybe SP22 might not be made public knowledge.... but one can tell just by the proofmarks that these do not come from the Ulm plant as their (P22, G22) proof is the "shield with 3 crowns" that indicates the guns are proofed in Koeln (cologne) which is pretty close to Umarex headquaters in Arnsberg

http://map.web.mapquest.com/mq/mqse...c:[email protected]!+C'jp)U"sKgwkJ:Z5-sQ2#@r~f666,

I am not sure for what reasons this is done that way... but one can tell for sure the difference in Walther made .22lr guns and Umarex I think... Walther got famous with sporting arms and target guns... I doubt they could not get a .22lr plinker to work right....but that is just me....

 

[Holescreek]

Just back from the range. The ejection issue (spent casings hitting the shooter) has been fixed, and my wife said the trigger got noticeably better. I tried Federal Lightning and had a couple FTF. Fiocchi standard had FTF in16 shots in a row then worked fine the last 4 shots. The gun functioned flawlessly with the last of a box of Remington hollow points from wallyworld. We both preferr the red dot sight over the laser, except I hate the factory mount because it is very flimsy. I believe I will be making my own mount from aluminum or perhaps a solid 1 piece mount from PVC. -Mike

 

[uncut]

http://www.germanguns.de/export/guns/dirtycharlie/dirtycharlie.htm
here is another mount that might be better... though more expensive

 

[Holescreek]

I took a good look at the mount tonight and was unpleasantly suprised to find that the flex is primarily from the frame. The area of the rail is hollow inside with some minor ribbing.

I see a couple of ways to approach this:

1. Fill the open area with a compound which will harden and stiffen the unsupported plastic.
2. Design a mount which slides back against the front of the trigger guard and lock onto the frame.
3. My wife's pick - Leave it alone and see how it works out.

While I was out in the shop I decided that I could smooth the slide out a bit more by surface grinding the bottom of the breech block to remove the chatter and distortion. I mounted the slide in a grinding sine-vise and aligned the slide rails, then checked the flatness of the breech block. It only took about .004" to even it up. While I was at it I blued up the hammer face and checked it's contact on the breech block as the action cycled. A little touch up on the 3M wheel evened it right out. Prior to the grinding, the hammer only contacted the bottom of the breech block on one side and had left a severely chattered surface.

I guess it 's back to the range! -Mike