[RCK]

There was something I noticed that I've been wondering about.  I find after a thorough cleaning, the trigger action is not as smooth... it's kind of 'creaky' or 'gritty', but smooths out again after a box or two of ammo.

I've been using different methods to clean the gun... ultrasonic tank, Hoppes #9, and the Hoppes spray degreaser, following up with a very light lube, but it all turns out the same.

When I asked Earl a while back what to use, he recommended KleenBore 3, which I think has some sort of lube in it, but I have yet to find it anywhere around here.

What do you use to clean your P99?
Do you even bother to clean down into the trigger mechanism?
Do you completely strip down the gun (remove the trigger assembly?)
Is this just my imagination?

I just want to be sure that I don't have a problem with my gun.  Is it possible the carbon residue from shooting a good thing, because it acts as a lubricant itself?

Just curious...

 

[lunde]

I find that the P99 doesn't get that filthy. When I clean them, I don't spend much time in the trigger mechanism. I generally use Q-tips and pipe cleaners to wipe off carbon residue. Most of the time is spent cleaning the slide and barrel. The rear portion of the slide stays remarkably clean. I like guns that are easily cleaned.

 

[sigma40sw]

The easiest way for me to clean my P99's, is to soak the frame and internals (no disassembly required) with WD40,brush everthing I can reach with a tooth brush, soak it again, then blow it all out with compressed air. For lube, I put a drop of breakfree lube on all the internal moving parts.

I have a Std DA and a QA which have never exhibited the trigger problem you are talking about.

 

[hube1236]

I have never detailed stripped my P99. I am afraid that it will not go back together. I recently made the jump to CLP for everyday cleaning with Hoppes every 250 (or so) rounds. That gritty feeling is there went I used to use toulene based cleaners, but is not existent with CLP.

 

[Catbird]

Administrator -

Funny you should bring this up...I experience this exact same thing; it just happened today (again).

My cleaning methods may sound unconventional to some, but I've been doing this for a few years now with all of my polymer framed pistols.  On/in  the frame, I use Simple Green and then brush the nooks and crannies with an old toothbrush.  I then flush with liberal amounts of very hot tap water.  When done, I dry with an old hair blow dryer.  (BTW, I only use this Simple Green procedure on the frame after 500 or more rounds.)

This above procedure strips every bit of lubricant (& grunge).  This isn't a big deal with my Glocks because I know precisely where (in the trigger group) to apply a drop of lube.  With my P99s, I'm somewhat in doubt where to lube the trigger mechanism.  I've tried to lube at logical pivot points, but I sense the same "creaky" & "gritty" feel.

I know that it eventually works itself out, but it's kind of a nuisance to have to put up with in order to get a "squeaky" clean pistol.

 

[RCK]

Catbird, here's a laugh for you... when I first experienced this problem, I thought it was just because I didn't have lube in the right places.

Having taken a watchmaking course or two, I know that a little lube goes a long way, but needs to be applied in the right spots to be effective.  In the watchmaking trade, manufactuers often have schematics that show where the oil points are (kind of a 'road map') and what TYPE of lube to use...

So, I called Smith & Wesson, and asked if they had a similar kind of thing that would illustrate where the oil points are within the mechanism.

What they sent me was a photocopy of the 'blowup' exploded-view diagram that's already on their website.  I'm not sure if I should be aggrivated for not getting the information I needed... or grateful that I got anything at all.

 

[Catbird]

Quote[/b] (Administrator @ July 26 2002,11:09)]Catbird, here's a laugh for you...

Actually, I don't know whether to laugh or to cry.  

Do you think this is best described as:

"The blind leading the blind" or "the blind leading the sighted" ?  

 

[P99]

I haven't had that problem on any of my P99's. I did have one problem where the trigger would seem to rub against something. Anyway I took it to Earl's and he said "oh I can fix that " and in 2 minutes it was fixed and no problems.
I do clean every gun after firing it within 12 hrs. I use Hoppes and Kleen Bore's Formula 3 Gun Conditioner on the Walthers. Thats what Earl recommends, so I pick a bunch of bottles from Earl before I moved to Florida. It seems to be good oil.

 

[RCK]

P99, I think I know where it's rubbing. Did you hear Earl mention what the fix was? Also, do you happen to know where can I get some of that Kleenbore Forumula 3?

 

[fearandloathing37]

I hate to say it, but I use the very same cleaning method I use on my Glock's.

1.) I know they say you can fire 5000 rounds thru 'em without cleaning the darn things, But I was brought up under the firm rule that "The sun shall not set on a dirty gun". So they get cleaned every time...Period.

2.) I use Hoppes solvent only on the inside of the bore, let it cure for an hour or so, then swab the bore out with one patch of very light sewing machine type oil, a couple of dry patches, then one patch coated lightly with Breakfree CLP, a couple more dry patches until only the lightest film of CLP lube is left on the inside surface of the barrel, rub down the outside barrel surfaces with the tiny bit of CLP left on the dry patches. Then wipe down the barrel with a clean rag.

3.) As someone else said, I to use cotton swabs and CLP to clean the trigger group area, wiping it out several times with a rag and making sure that no theads or fiber from the swabs or the rag remain on any of the working parts or surfaces. Leaving only the VERY LIGHTEST FILM OF CLP. Do not over lube your trigger group, it will just collect crap.

4.) On the slide, I use a tooth brush and CLP, scrubbing down the all the surfaces except around the night sights, which I avoid because solvents and CLP are not good for any night sights. I then wipe the whole thing out completely, paying special attention to the slide grooves. I then place one small smidge of a moly based grease, just a tiny blot from the tip of a cotton swab, on the front inside lip of the ejection port, where the front of the barrel mates up to the front of the ejection port.

5.) I place pin head size blots of the same moly based grease on the slide guides on the frame.

6.) I wipe of the feed ramp one last time with a pin head sized smidge of the moly grease, rubbing it in till its the finest of films. making sure the ramp is slick smooth and without finger print.

7.) reassemble and wipe outside again.

8.) I never used WD-40, the one light oil I use on the bore is completely removed, I Never, Never under any circumstanse would leave a penatrating oil in my weapon for any length of time. Penatrating oils range through the weapon and Kill ammunition primers. Use WD-40 on your car, BUT NEVER ON A WEAPON YOU MIGHT HAVE TO TRUST YOUR LIFE TO.

 

[P99]

Quote[/b] (Administrator @ July 31 2002,10:49)]P99, I think I know where it's rubbing.  Did you hear Earl mention what the fix was?  Also, do you happen to know where can I get some of that Kleenbore Forumula 3?

Earl did not mention what it was. I was talking to other customers and George (who works for Earl) at the time and for got to ask him.

 

[RCK]

Hmmm... any chance you can get in touch with him and see if we can find out what the fix is, so I can take care of mine? It's not so bad that I'm willing to send it in for repair to anyone, but it is a tad annoying.

 

[Catbird]

Admin -

I improved mine by at least 95%.

I put a tiny dab of "Tetra" gun grease on the front surface of the bottom of the striker and the small surface of the trigger mechanism where the two touch when the striker is cocked. (Sorry, but I don't know the proper names for these parts - maybe someone can enlighten me.)  

With more range time and as these two mating parts "wear in", it is my belief that this grease will no longer be necessary for smooth operation.

 

[Josefius]

I use Breakfree CLP, works great on my Sig 229 and my P99.

Sent from my Nexus 4

 

[Towns]

Josefius,

Though you resurrected an 11 year old post, I still enjoyed reading through it.

On the other hand, I have twice now gone to the 1st page of the New Member Welcome thread and welcomed a 4 year "new" member.

 

[Josefius]

Lol thanks,

Sent from my Nexus 4

 

[searcher451]

It's times like this when this ...



... comes out.

Actually, the question comes up a lot. Just run a search and you'll find more than a few threads on the same topic.