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Discussion Starter #1
my first is the PPQ Q4 Tac and today i picked up the P22

question, for the most part the gun is the newer version:

Grip, Rail, except i don't have the red dot on the Safety/Fire switch

i been reading about a few common problems that keep it from making this a dang near awesome .22 and want to get those problems fixed BEFORE i even fire a round

1. Ordered the updated Coil Spring, i think for $20, it isn't much to update the older design


2. there are videos on Youtube about using a dremel on a few places:



i use my dremel for automotive stuff but don't feel safe using on a gun i just bought so if i were to take it to a local gunsmith, about how much should i expect to pay?


thanks in advance for any/all help, info, advice
 

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Don't Dremel anything. Clean it, load and shoot and then we can address any issues you might have. The new pistols come with the captive spring. Nothing to update. I find they run pretty much fine right out of the box these days. The pistol will require snappy ammo....nothing unusual there...these are blowback pistols and rely on the blowback energy to cycle the slide. Some bulk, quiet, target ammo doesn't develop much blowback energy and won't reliably cycle the slide. CCI mini mags and Rem Goldens usually run 100%. Other stuff does too, especially CCI but some Feds and Winchester are too weak.
 

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Where is MGMike when we need him.
Listen to 1917. Friends don't let friends take Dremels to Walthers.
 

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Mike didn't like the new format, said he was leaving and I guess he meant it. Welcome ykang213. I had to go meet a client earlier and just wanted to make sure you didn't go grinding on a new pistol based on something off the net. The first thing I suggest looking at on your P22 is the top, front edge of the trigger bar ears. They can indent the underside of the zinc slide. Apparently Walther is not concerned with this and the pistol has a lifetime warranty....even free shipping...as long as you don't screw something up grinding on it.

There are a lot of threads here on everything P22. Look up in the FAQ section for even more stuff. The hammer face might benefit from a very small amt of work. Be sure you understand what and why first and determine if you even have any issues. Snappy ammo corrects many issues with the P22....short barrel .22 semi autos require ammo powerful enough to cycle the slide. Let us know if you have any issues. I'd load and start shooting. Most of the stuff you read on the net is for pistols and mags that were made 12 -15 years ago. 1917
 

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Ha.....I didn't have any friends telling me I shouldn't do this. But, its not a Walther, rather a SW99 45. I have done some Walthers though. 😁

Oh, didn't use a Dremel either. I used a pneumatic die grinder with a 5/16" rotary bit.







Oh, and Olsoul is right, listen to 1911M. Any time the factory is considering any changes to the P22 they check with 1911M first.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Don't Dremel anything. Clean it, load and shoot and then we can address any issues you might have. The new pistols come with the captive spring. Nothing to update. I find they run pretty much fine right out of the box these days. The pistol will require snappy ammo....nothing unusual there...these are blowback pistols and rely on the blowback energy to cycle the slide. Some bulk, quiet, target ammo doesn't develop much blowback energy and won't reliably cycle the slide. CCI mini mags and Rem Goldens usually run 100%. Other stuff does too, especially CCI but some Feds and Winchester are too weak.
Thanks for the advice...i think you are right, try it out test it BEFORE doing anything to it. i already bought the Updated coil spring as the one it came with seems way more easier to kink:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Where is MGMike when we need him.
Listen to 1917. Friends don't let friends take Dremels to Walthers.
lol good advice

honestly, i don't want it to "jam" even once so i want to prevent that ever happening as i've been super pleased with my PPQ Q4 Tac.

even looking into staying within the Walther family again and grabbing a Hammerli Tac R1 .22 LR
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Apparently Walther is not concerned with this and the pistol has a lifetime warranty....even free shipping...as long as you don't screw something up grinding on it.

There are a lot of threads here on everything P22. Look up in the FAQ section for even more stuff. The hammer face might benefit from a very small amt of work. Be sure you understand what and why first and determine if you even have any issues. Snappy ammo corrects many issues with the P22....short barrel .22 semi autos require ammo powerful enough to cycle the slide. Let us know if you have any issues. I'd load and start shooting. Most of the stuff you read on the net is for pistols and mags that were made 12 -15 years ago. 1917
i will follow your advice

first Shoot it as is with the updated Coil Spring - going to try out about 4 different Ammo and then pick up the CCI and Rem gold like you recommended

if anything fails, i will get in touch with Walther

if after they return it, i am still having any issues, i will take it to a qualified Gunsmith
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ha.....I didn't have any friends telling me I shouldn't do this. But, its not a Walther, rather a SW99 45. I have done some Walthers though. 😁

Oh, didn't use a Dremel either. I used a pneumatic die grinder with a 5/16" rotary bit.







Oh, and Olsoul is right, listen to 1911M. Any time the factory is considering any changes to the P22 they check with 1911M first.
thats some interesting work!

i'm too much of a novice to be taking stuff off an OEM gun...if its Automotive though, thats a different story :)
 

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Are you in CA? If so that explains the original recoil spring assembly. It isn't hard to reinstall the original long spring with a guide but the new one or a captive one is much easier. The captive spring came with pistols beginning in 2017, perhaps even 2016 but not for CA pistols from what I read. You can do a few simple things to the pistol but you need to fire it first and see if you have any issues. I've been shooting a 5" model with a stock hammer face for years now. Works fine. I did all kinds of mods to these pistols over the years....threads on modifying the safety drum and rear of the breech block but I'm not finding those necessary anymore. What is the date on your pistol? BI would be a 2018, BK would be a 2019, CA would be a 2020. This is not to be confused with CA for California. My 2017, BH model came with the decocker and captive spring but it is my understanding the decocker has already been dropped. California pistols don't get all the changes later pistols get. That doesn't mean you can't update. 1917



The only thing a guide rod does is hold the long spring straight and from kinking while you pull the slide rearward to remount.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
mine says "DE then BC" and based on reading, that would make it 2013. i was a bit concerned because it did look to have a bit if wear yet i bought a new pistol
 

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2012.....BA 2010, BB 2011, BC 2012 DE = Germany. It is entirely possible you bought a new 2012 pistol. Pull the slide off and show us the underside of the ramp where the trigger bars hit and I'll tell you if it is new. Also bottom of the breech block, the hump on the right side of the frame and the hammer face. That should do it. They haven't changed any except for the new models having a captive recoil spring and you can get one of those from Ft Smith.....You do have to drill the guide rod hole out slightly to 1/4". Very easy. 1917


Thread on installing a Walther captive recoil spring assembly in an earlier P22 slide. Q or original.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They haven't changed any except for the new models having a captive recoil spring and you can get one of those from Ft Smith.....You do have to drill the guide rod hole out slightly to 1/4". Very easy. 1917


Thread on installing a Walther captive recoil spring assembly in an earlier P22 slide. Q or original.
thanks for your help

i took it shooting today and .22 + almost zero recoil is awesome!

one bullet did jam though - Remington Golden

had CCI but thet are WMR

also and those worked out nicely....based on your guys feedback, i bought CCI's and looking forward to putting some rounds through this thing!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
went to Range and used the CCI's..jammed twice even with new Spring

i like the weapon and bought a few extra mags

came home, cleaned/oiled weapon


should i just keep shooting it to"break it in" or anything i can do to improve my chances of it not jamming since this will be my Conceal/Carry firearm


thanks
 

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The pistol has a lifetime warranty so you can call them if we can't resolved the issue here. They will e-mail you a shipping label and pay for everything on their dime. But let's talk about your pistol and your issues. 1. Did you buy a new pistol or was it used? 2. Put the stock spring back in it until issues are resolved unless you installed the Walther captive spring. 3. Jams are usually magazine problems. 4. What do your magazines look like? Do they have a long (1") rim stagger slot? The original mags did not have a stagger slot and didn't geed well. In 2006 or so Walther made some short stagger slot mags for a short while and they didn't feed well either. I had some...darn things would allow a live round to jump out of the pistol while chambering the next one. Purely a mag problem that one.

The reason I ask about the pistol being new is that I have written quite a bit about modifications and some people can do them properly and some can't and some get the information mixed up. Before you go working on any firearm you need to know what you are doing and not just because you read it on the net. So the question is....has your pistol been worked on by someone else. Good photos will show if it has or not.

How about describing exactly what you mean by jamming? Exactly what is the round or case doing? Make sure you clean the inside of the magazine and parts as well as the pistol. When testing a P22 or any other .22 pistol I would use CCI Mini Mags as the ammo is powerful enough for reliable cycling and it is pretty consistent ammo. You must also hold all pistols firmly especially a .22 of any make. They don't create much blowback energy therefore you can't let the pistol "give" with the shot. Especially on full slide .22 pistols. Photos of the hammer, underside of the slide, etc. 1917
 

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The pistol has a lifetime warranty so you can call them if we can't resolved the issue here. They will e-mail you a shipping label and pay for everything on their dime. But let's talk about your pistol and your issues. 1. Did you buy a new pistol or was it used? 2. Put the stock spring back in it until issues are resolved unless you installed the Walther captive spring. 3. Jams are usually magazine problems. 4. What do your magazines look like? Do they have a long (1") rim stagger slot? The original mags did not have a stagger slot and didn't geed well. In 2006 or so Walther made some short stagger slot mags for a short while and they didn't feed well either. I had some...darn things would allow a live round to jump out of the pistol while chambering the next one. Purely a mag problem that one.
okay will look into it if i need to. New, from an FFL but it looked like it was fired at least 10+ times. The Store was nice enough to send me a couple extra boxes of bullets and that was great of them.

the new spring is working fine. Even picked up 3x Magazines so i am going to start shooting it more at the Range
Rim Stagger Slot....can you describe what these Magazines would look like?



The reason I ask about the pistol being new is that I have written quite a bit about modifications and some people can do them properly and some can't and some get the information mixed up. Before you go working on any firearm you need to know what you are doing and not just because you read it on the net. So the question is....has your pistol been worked on by someone else. Good photos will show if it has or not.
nope, like stated, maybe a few rounds, looked factory new. i agree, i have been modifying Cars for 20+ and would never start working on something i got very little experience in. I would most likely take it to a gunsmith


How about describing exactly what you mean by jamming? Exactly what is the round or case doing? Make sure you clean the inside of the magazine and parts as well as the pistol. When testing a P22 or any other .22 pistol I would use CCI Mini Mags as the ammo is powerful enough for reliable cycling and it is pretty consistent ammo. You must also hold all pistols firmly especially a .22 of any make. They don't create much blowback energy therefore you can't let the pistol "give" with the shot. Especially on full slide .22 pistols. Photos of the hammer, underside of the slide, etc. 1917
jamming like a round is not going through the chamber but i got to put more rounds through it to see consistency
yep, picked up 15+ boxes of CCI...they've been about 99% solid

i go with the 30% to 70% when holding fire arms and am training, watching videos, taking classes to improve in all areas


thanks so much for your help and i hope to have a 100% day at the Range if possible
 

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The rims on .22 ammo cause the rounds to stack in a curve. This can make the top rounds go nose down. A cure for this is rim stagger slots that allow the rims of the top rounds to stagger in the stack which then allows the top rounds to sit nose up as they should for proper feeding. The mag in the middle of the photo has a short stagger slot and did not feed well. The original P22 mags did not have a stagger slot and did not feed well. All of the other mags pictured have the functional 1" stagger slot mags. 1917
 
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