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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A couple of weeks ago, I took delivery of a new PPS M2 LE from Buds Guns. It was admittedly an impulse purchase as, at $300 with free shipping and no sales tax, it was just too good of a deal to pass up.

For a $300 firearm, the PPS just oozes quality. It is extremely well constructed and fits my hand like the frame was custom molded for me. The out-of-the-box trigger pull, however, left much to be desired. I understand that a long and heavy trigger pull (mine broke consistently at about 6.5 lbs.) functions as a de facto safety on a personal defense weapon, but the trigger take-up was unacceptably rough and jerky, with the striker spring making crinkling and twanging noises as it compressed.

I extracted the striker assembly from the slide and it was immediately obvious that the striker spring was squirming and grinding against the wall of the striker channel as it compressed, resulting in the rough take-up.

I removed the striker spring and compared it with an OEM Glock striker spring; the latter was a few coils shorter, but the inner and outer diameters of both springs were practically identical. I installed the Glock spring in the PPS's striker assembly and put the gun back together. Voilà! The crinkling sound was exorcised and the grittiness virtually eliminated on the take-up. As a bonus, the trigger did lighten up a smidge, breaking now at a little under 6 lbs.

Since the spring replacement, I've shot about 150 of my handloads (using S&B and Winchester primers) with no light primer strikes. I can't vouch for the Glock spring's ability to touch off other brands of primers, but for the two that I use most in my 9mm handloads, it works.

My PPS M2 has thus far proven to be an absolute joy to shoot, being both accurate and reliable. It's strictly a range toy, since it's a little too bulky to pocket carry (a Ruger LCP in a DeSantis pocket holster currently fills that role). I checked earlier this evening and Buds was still offering the PPS M2 LE package at $300... so I ordered another one.

(The attached image shows the typical accuracy of my PPS M2. Target was shot from 20 yards standing, offhand and slowfire, using my 115 gr. subsonic target handloads.)

Edited 7/11: Added an image showing the difference in lengths between the striker springs of the PPS (top) and Glock (bottom).
 

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I think I might go your route. Btw, Geco here and hopefully Hirtenberger (if I can find them).



Would you be so kind as to post updates as you take it out to the range?


IAT
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Went to the range earlier this morning, before it got stupidly hot outside, and put another 90+ handloads (loaded using the usual mix of WSP and S&B primers) through my PPS. No light strikes or misfires of any sort with the OEM Glock striker spring. Included was a small batch of handloads incorporating the Remington No. 5½ small pistol magnum primer; the Glock striker spring lit those off with no problems too.

Since my PPS is strictly a range toy, I'm tempted to buy a "Striker Spring Pak" from Wolff to see how light of a spring I can go with on the PPS while still maintaining ignition reliability. This will have the benefit of lightening the trigger pull, but going too light will likely result in the safety dingus on the trigger not fully disengaging before the trigger moves rearward.

Meanwhile, the PPS continues to impress with its accuracy. I moved back to 24 yards for today's session and the gun was still able to return reasonably tight groups.
 

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Remington No. 5½ small pistol magnum primer]
That's impressive. It makes me more confident that it will handle the Hirtenberger red sealant primer.

Thank you so much for sharing your experience. I wouldn't have thought of such a change.

However, I should warn you. Don't go too light. I owned and handled an ASAI OnePro .45 that had an out-of-the-box trigger pull of two (2) pounds. I could make it go into two-shot bursts, a few times unintentionally. I don't think you want to do that, it might result in wearing daily oranges.

Unless you really really like the color orange.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
jehzsa,

You are more than welcome. The only reason I know Glock striker springs work in Walthers is that I use them in my PPQ, P99AS and TP9 (in tandem with lighter trigger return springs) to improve their trigger pulls, and it only seemed logical that it would work too in a PPS.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Put another 60+ rounds through the PPS earlier this afternoon. As usual, my subsonic target handloads had a mix of WSP and S&B primers. Again, I also shot a small batch primed with the Remington No. 5½ small pistol magnum primer. All 60+ rounds were lit off using the 6 lb. Glock striker spring with no problems. Attached is an image showing a sampling of fired cases sporting the Remington magnum primers. You can see the very positive striker hits on the primers; I'm thinking that dropping down to a 5.5 lb. striker spring will probably still maintain 100% ignition reliability while further improving the trigger pull.

The PPS continues to astound me with its inherent mechanical accuracy. The second attached image shows the best target achieved during this afternoon's range session, shooting from 24 yards standing and offhand. I often have to remind myself that this is a sub-$300 self-defense handgun.
 

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I bought a variety pack of Glock springs to try this myself. The 6 and 5.5 pound springs added grittiness and sproing sound to the trigger pull. The 5 pound and lower springs did not even have enough power to return the trigger forward once partially pulled.

I did not have any of issues with the stock setup like the op did. I wouldn’t mind lowering the pull by a half to a full pound but in my case the Glock springs did not work.
 

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The trigger job done by The Trigger Guy not only made the trigger extremely smooth but it reduced the pull weight to 4.6lb and still have original springs.
 

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Hi Chandler,

Is there a tread with details on the trigger job by "The Trigger Guy" Would love to refine the pull on my PPS M2 trigger.

Thanks,
Frank
 

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Hi Dleong,

I pulled the strike assembly out and saw the issue with the spring. It's not clear to me how to remove the spring from the striker, any suggestions would be great. Do you have any details about which Glock spring you used and the lb rating.

Thanks for your post,
Frank
 

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Question from the other side of the pond:

What's about the lifetime warranty of your Walther pistol, if you replace the OEM striker spring by a spring from another brand?

If in Europe the manufacturer discovers this in the event of a warranty claim, he will refuse the warranty.
At least he will certainly try to do so with the consequence of a long argument.
 

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Question from the other side of the pond:

What's about the lifetime warranty of your Walther pistol, if you replace the OEM striker spring by a spring from another brand?

If in Europe the manufacturer discovers this in the event of a warranty claim, he will refuse the warranty.
At least he will certainly try to do so with the consequence of a long argument.
I definitely think it could void warranty. To me an even bigger concern is how such changes can affect the safety of the pistol and the liability of the pistol owner.
 

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First post---- I stumbled on this forum while looking for a way to remove the extractor from the slide. The striker safety plunger spring is way too strong. I wanted to snip it or replace with a Glock spring. I also polished the striker tang and the rear of the cruciform with my dremel. My new PPS came with a creepy 7 lb trigger. :(

When I disassembled the striker I noticed the same thing with the spring. Wow! If I had two I could replace the coil springs on my truck. I'm a Glock armorer and have built many custom competition Glocks. I have a crude striker spring test for Glocks. I drop a standard #2 pencil with a good a eraser down the barrel and dry fire it. If the pencil dribbles out of the barrel then the striker spring is probably good and won't cause light strikes. Well, the PPS launched the pencil about 3 feet! Never seen that before.

I replaced with a factory Glock spring and improved the trigger 100%. Maybe 4.5 to 5 lbs and crisp, no more creep.

Now anyone know how to remove the extractor? TIA
 

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Hi Dleong,

I pulled the strike assembly out and saw the issue with the spring. It's not clear to me how to remove the spring from the striker, any suggestions would be great. Do you have any details about which Glock spring you used and the lb rating.

Thanks for your post,
Frank
Hi Frank - I could write a detailed explanation but pictures or a video would be better. Google Glock striker disassembly and you should find a video or something. The PPS and Glock striker- spring assemblies are almost identical. The Walther is a little harder to take apart simply because of how much tension is on the original spring.

A factory Glock striker spring is 5.5 lbs and thats what I used. Wolff Gunsprings sells various weights from about 3.5 to extra power 6 lbs.

Today I figured out how to remove the extractor and striker safety plunger. I polished the plunger up with a dremel and I planned on replacing the plunger spring with one from a Glock. That was a no go because the Glock spring is quite a bit larger in diameter and wouldn't fit into the plunger. So out came the wire snips and I took about 20% off the length of the Walther plunger spring. The safety plunger still has plenty of tension on it to function properly so no worries there. That probably took another half lb. off the trigger.

At this point I'm done with the trigger. I'm guessing it's 4 to 4.5 lbs and crisp. It went from pretty disappointing when I received the pistol to really sweet right now. The biggest improvement came from replacing that crazy Walther striker spring with the OEM Glock spring.

I'm gonna put a few hundred rds thru it this weekend and we will see if it's 100% reliable for carry.
 

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Hi 357pig,

Thanks for the response and details of what you did to the striker. I watched some videos on to to release the spring, similar to valve retention clips on a valves gas engines. I ordered the following spring kit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Strike-Industries-Striker-Firing-Pin-Springs-for-Glock-Reduced-Extra-Power/273995412046?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
with four springs and the diameter was slightly smaller and I installed the 6 lb spring, the 4.5 felt too light for a carry pistol. I will be going out to the range this weekend. Used some 1500 and 2000 grit wet sand paper (used oil to lube paper) on the striker. It is 100% better.

I really appreciate your input.
frank
 

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Has anyone else had trouble with the trigger resetting after changing to the Glock standard spring? I put 100 rounds through my M1 and had several failures of the trigger to reset. The Slide was in battery. A short quick press and release on the trigger and it would snap forward into the proper position and be ready to fire again. It almost seemed like that trigger safety blade was getting hung up on the frame and the Glock spring didn't have enough force to power it past.
 

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Has anyone else had trouble with the trigger resetting after changing to the Glock standard spring?
Yes, I think I already posted but Glock springs did not work in my m2. They are a slightly different diameter and the lower power spring was not powerful enough to overcome the binding. I don’t know how they are working for some and not others, but I tried 5 different power springs and none of them worked.
 

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Very interesting thread because I have no complaints about my PPS M2 trigger. That is probably because I simply see it as a self=defense gun. I do not feel comfortable messing with the mechanics of a SD gun so I shoot it the way it was deigned and built. At the range all I shoot for is rapid shots and small groups. As for the gun I have never liked any pistol better especially the ergonomics.
 

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a factory Glock striker spring transformed the really heavy trigger on my m2 to a very nice crisp 4 to 5 lb pull.

100% reliable and more accurate with the better trigger
 
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