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Welcome to the Forums G. You have what appears to be a commercial issue PP that was made during WWII (although with the pitting this is hard to tell). I believe it is commercial because I do not see any military acceptance stamps on the weapon.

I'd suggest you field strip it and clean it thoroughly with Ballistol to prevent more damage. You might also want a smith to look it over before you decide to shoot it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Welcome to the Forums G. You have what appears to be a commercial issue PP that was made during WWII (although with the pitting this is hard to tell). I believe it is commercial because I do not see any military acceptance stamps on the weapon.

I'd suggest you field strip it and clean it thoroughly with Ballistol to prevent more damage. You might also want a smith to look it over before you decide to shoot it.
92069
 

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First of all make sure it is not loaded. As shown the safety is set to fire and the hammer is cocked. Make sure the chamber is empty. Rotating the safety down will decock the hammer. Place your thumb on it first to slow the fall. If you don't know how to field strip we will be glad to walk you through it.

Good find...I looked all over my basement and didn't find anything but someone's dog's ashes in a tube. Wanna swap? 1917
 

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First of all make sure it is not loaded. As shown the safety is set to fire and the hammer is cocked. Make sure the chamber is empty. Rotating the safety down will decock the hammer. Place your thumb on it first to slow the fall. If you don't know how to field strip we will be glad to walk you through it.

Good find...I looked all over my basement and didn't find anything but someone's dog's ashes in a tube. Wanna swap? 1917
Field stripping is no problem. I’ve owned a couple of PPK/Ss. The chrome trigger guard and chrome safety puzzle me. Also there are no markings on the slide. I’ve got a dig up my can of Kroil oil as the safety is frozen.
 

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Well, glad you know how to safely disarm the weapon; in its condition, it presents a danger to the target and the user!
Having no slide markings actually fits my theory based on the chromed trigger guard and safety, someone refinished it postwar to make it 'cooler' and then forgot about it.
It may be restorable as a shooter, it looks like a post 1940 to 1945 weapon, but it really needs a thorough soak, cleaning and inspection (and a left grip) before trying to fire it. While it isn't a highly prized collectible, it could be a nice quarantine project. Wish I had a basement to find such in!
 

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I see trigger guards and triggers for sale on e-bay so the chrome stuff could be removed. Don't force the safety...a lot of parts are connected to it internally. Good that you are familiar with the pistol. Hope the bore is in good shape...but I've seen some pistols that are accurate with terrible bores. 1917
 

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Actually the bore seems pristine. I found a great YouTube video on this assembly of the slide. At least the firing pin isn’t frozen.
 

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Cleaned up and oiled I bet it will make a nice shooter. What caliber? Were you able to dismount (I learned that from MGMike) the slide? More photos...well lit and in focus. What does the proof mark look like? 1917
 

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A view of the other side would help a lot. Since there are no stampings on the left, it might be an "AC stamped" late war put together if it's stamped that way on the right side.
 

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I though the very first picture might show an Eagle/N on the frame but the close up doesn't allow the location on the pistol to be seen and not really if that is a proof mark. OK, Grepse...time for better photos now that you've got our curiosity up. How you doing ViperR? 309300 P SN, slide matches. They don't look sanded down. What year would that be. I cannot see any proof stamps. How about the muzzle end of the barrel ? Is it proofed there, did that escape damage? What caliber. A little very fine steel wool and some oil will clean it up a bit. Good deal of wear to the button release and grips. 1917
 

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It is a commercial Eagle N #309300P pistol that should have a full slide legend on the left side. Looks like it was buffed and budda'd with the chrome work. 7,65mm. Try and bring it back and use it as a plunker.
 
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Do I recall some homebrew chroming kits from long ago? Might explain how the smaller parts came to be chromed, but not the larger ones.
Moon
 
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