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Blued PPK/S (?) from Interarms (I think if I can see the logo right). I assume 32acp, but is it a 380ACP?

As I've mentioned before, these PPKs, PPs and PPK/S's have the most excellent workmanship!

I'm sure you'll enjoy the gun!

James in Denver
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Blued PPK/S (?) from Interarms (I think if I can see the logo right). I assume 32acp, but is it a 380ACP?

As I've mentioned before, these PPKs, PPs and PPK/S's have the most excellent workmanship!

I'm sure you'll enjoy the gun!

James in Denver
thanks a lot! Yes interarms In 380, I think it’s from the 1970’s or 1980’s!! So cool to have my dream gun.
 

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It is German or French made (Manurhin debate) and imported by Interarms. There is the antler stamp on the barrel hood and what looks like a blurred 71 (correct me if I am wrong).
 
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Don't take it apart too far. Before you do anything remove the magazine and carefully inspect the chamber to make sure it isn't loaded. I'd remove the grips carefully for a look inside at the mainspring, sear, hammer toe, etc. Removing the slide ( field stripping ) is first or second and that is probably as far as you need to go. To field strip you remove the magazine, and make absolutely sure there isn't a round in the chamber. Now here is where people screw up. So that you can remove the slide you must pull the front of the trigger guard down. It is designed so that you can rotate it sidewise just enough to rest on the bottom of the frame....but, it can slip off and lock the slide.....so, some of us pull the trigger guard down then install a guitar pick or penny between the frame and guard. Does the same job. Rotate the safety for fire and cock the hammer.

Next you grab the grip with one hand and the slide with the other. You will need to pull the slide all the way to the rear....all the way, then lift up the rear end high enough so that the bottom of the breech rail face doesn't drag across the top of the barrel boss that fits around the chamber. Let the slide forward while holding up the rear end until it is free of the barrel. Reinstalling is just the opposite, trigger guard down, place the muzzle over the recoil spring ( large end of the spring forward, always) and then pull the slide all the way to the rear...all the way, while holding it up high enough to not drag on the frame boss again. When pulled all the way to the rear, let it down, press down against the cocked hammer to align the rails and grooves. Let forward and remove the penny to lock the slide back on the frame.

With the slide off you can inspect the barrel/chamber, ejector, firing pin, indicator pin, extractor, etc. Be careful not to dislodge the ejector that is fitted flush on the left side. I wouldn't take any more of the pistol apart until you are thoroughly familiar with it and have some reason to. There isn't much you can't get to for cleaning and lubricating with sprays and air and a brush when field stripped.

To clean the inside of the mags, press the small button up on the bottom of the bumper. Slide the bumper forward carefully....mag always fully unloaded. Careful, the parts are under spring pressure and can fly out the bottom of the mag body. Note precisely how they fit as they come out of the mag body. They must go back in exactly the same. Clean the parts and the inside of the mag body. No need to lubricate other than a very light coating of a light oil....almost dry. Reassemble and check for smooth movement of the follower. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the steps! I have a Glock and the blowback system is new to me. Am really looking forward to field stripping it. Would you suggest I replace the spring? Just as a general service thing to be safe, not sure last time it was done. Will give it a light cleaning if needed. I just bought two boxes of 380 and can’t wait until it is out of California gun jail in 9 days, 14 hours 🙂 thanks again for all of the info. Not gonna shoot this one “too much”. Just something I take out on special occasions.



Don't take it apart too far. Before you do anything remove the magazine and carefully inspect the chamber to make sure it isn't loaded. I'd remove the grips carefully for a look inside at the mainspring, sear, hammer toe, etc. Removing the slide ( field stripping ) is first or second and that is probably as far as you need to go. To field strip you remove the magazine, and make absolutely sure there isn't a round in the chamber. Now here is where people screw up. So that you can remove the slide you must pull the front of the trigger guard down. It is designed so that you can rotate it sidewise just enough to rest on the bottom of the frame....but, it can slip off and lock the slide.....so, some of us pull the trigger guard down then install a guitar pick or penny between the frame and guard. Does the same job. Rotate the safety for fire and cock the hammer.

Next you grab the grip with one hand and the slide with the other. You will need to pull the slide all the way to the rear....all the way, then lift up the rear end high enough so that the bottom of the breech rail face doesn't drag across the top of the barrel boss that fits around the chamber. Let the slide forward while holding up the rear end until it is free of the barrel. Reinstalling is just the opposite, trigger guard down, place the muzzle over the recoil spring ( large end of the spring forward, always) and then pull the slide all the way to the rear...all the way, while holding it up high enough to not drag on the frame boss again. When pulled all the way to the rear, let it down, press down against the cocked hammer to align the rails and grooves. Let forward and remove the penny to lock the slide back on the frame.

With the slide off you can inspect the barrel/chamber, ejector, firing pin, indicator pin, extractor, etc. Be careful not to dislodge the ejector that is fitted flush on the left side. I wouldn't take any more of the pistol apart until you are thoroughly familiar with it and have some reason to. There isn't much you can't get to for cleaning and lubricating with sprays and air and a brush when field stripped.

To clean the inside of the mags, press the small button up on the bottom of the bumper. Slide the bumper forward carefully....mag always fully unloaded. Careful, the parts are under spring pressure and can fly out the bottom of the mag body. Note precisely how they fit as they come out of the mag body. They must go back in exactly the same. Clean the parts and the inside of the mag body. No need to lubricate other than a very light coating of a light oil....almost dry. Reassemble and check for smooth movement of the follower. 1917
 

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Don't bother replacing springs pre-emptively. Only of the gun malfunctions and even then that would be the last step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So update: Picked it up yesterday first 80 rounds and I found my new favorite gun! Hank you all for tips. I took it down and cleaned it before use. Internals look solid. Nice barrel and only issues are a little pitting time staining on back handle. Otherwise really solid condition vg?


One issue I am having is trying to get spring 100% off. Part of it seems to be lodged in there pretty good. Should I lube that part more and try and pry it out?



So happy with how this thing shoots, amazing pistol and I can’t wait to get accurate with it !
 

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Should I lube that part more and try and pry it out?
Yes to lube. No, to pry it out.

After lubing, try to twist it out going with the coils, at the point where it is stuck. You would be compressing the spring which sounds like an oxymoron but you don't want it unwinded.

Yes, it might be time to replace the recoil spring.
 

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first 80 rounds and I found my new favorite gun!
Glad that you are happy, but this isn’t something we hear often about .380 PP-series pistols. Shooting .32 is a *****cat, but .380 can be quite snappy in these blowback pistols. Enjoy!
 

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One issue I am having is trying to get spring 100% off. Part of it seems to be lodged in there pretty good. Should I lube that part more and try and pry it out?
What spring? If it is the recoil spring that sits over the barrel just pull it off. Some of these have a closed end and some were snipped off which leaves a sharp edge. If you have one of these you might take some 400 grit emery paper and lightly smooth the inside edge where the spring was clipped. That should help matters and prevent the sharp edge from leaving tiny scratches on the barrel when you remove it or re install it. It doesn't do any moving when firing. Be sure the large end is toward the muzzle when you put the spring back on. They are made to fit tight around the barrel on the rear end. Firing the pistol won't hurt it. That is what it is made for....shooting. 1917
 

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I wouldn't automatically replace the recoil spring if it's working (shooting and ejecting). I do no more than field strip my PPK/S.
 
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