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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the black finish on my P99c is wearing away on the part of the barrel which is exposed by the ejector port. I assume this was caused by racking the slide. Anyone else experience this? Is it evidence of a problem developing.

Thanks.

Ron
 

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100% normal. Remember - it is metal on metal contact on that part as the slide opens and closes. This occurs on ALL semi autos to some degree.

It is less noticeable when the barrel is stainless steel.

Only way to not have that is to never shoot the gun.

Every one of my semi-autos has wear there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
100% normal. Remember - it is metal on metal contact on that part as the slide opens and closes. This occurs on ALL semi autos to some degree.

It is less noticeable when the barrel is stainless steel.

Only way to not have that is to never shoot the gun.

Every one of my semi-autos has wear there.
Thanks, Shipwreck. That's what I thought, but just wanted to be sure. That is a relief.

Ron



Ron
 

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One way to slow this wear is to make sure you always lightly oil your weapons before firing them.
 

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Agreed. My Glocks, XD, and Kahr P9 all have some barrel hood shiny spots. My P9 is stainless so it shows up the least, though it is still there. This perfectly illustrates why the entire outside of your barrel (especially the hood and side) should be lightly lubed. (I use TW2B synthetic grease....just a tiny amount).

100% normal. Remember - it is metal on metal contact on that part as the slide opens and closes. This occurs on ALL semi autos to some degree.

It is less noticeable when the barrel is stainless steel.

Only way to not have that is to never shoot the gun.

Every one of my semi-autos has wear there.
 

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Like any piece of mechanical equipment, pistols are not meant to operate without a minimum of lube oil. Dry metal on metal always will result in wear, chafing damage etc. Fortunately there's a simple solution : OIL !!! I've been trying numerous oils for years; from the very expensive special gun oils to sewing machine oil, mil spec oils etc... Finally I've found the right stuff (don't laugh) : chain saw oil ! It has all the right characteristics : the ideal viscosity at a wide temperature range (the action runs so smooth !), it adds corrosion resistance, it's biodegradable and cheaper than dirt. This may seem odd but from mechanical point of view, pistols and chain saws are submitted to almost similar loads. Lightly oil the contact surfaces of the pistol parts after cleaning your gun and never look back ....
 

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This perfectly illustrates why the entire outside of your barrel (especially the hood and side) should be lightly lubed. (I use TW2B synthetic grease....just a tiny amount).
Yep. Won't prevent it, but will slow it down. I also put a bit on the inside of the slide, where the chamber/hood is rubbing.

thorn
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yep. Won't prevent it, but will slow it down. I also put a bit on the inside of the slide, where the chamber/hood is rubbing.

thorn
Thanks, all. Very informative responses, as is usually the case on this Forum.

Ron
 

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True. What I really meant to say (but didn't) is that since there is metal to metal contact as evidenced by finish wear and shiny spots on the barrel hood and sides, that lubricating those areas is a good for reliable operation. I too put a tiny bit on on the inside of the slide where contacts points are. In fact, on the Kahr series, they recommend the entire barrel, inside the slide, the slide rails, and the pick-up rail.

Now, on combat weapons like the XD, Glock, H&K, P99, etc...it's probably not quite as important. But for match-grade barrel/slide lock-up (which Kahrs are close), it's really important -- especially during a lengthy break-in period.

Yep. Won't prevent it, but will slow it down. I also put a bit on the inside of the slide, where the chamber/hood is rubbing.

thorn
 

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Why can't I edit my post above? I made three 8th-grade grammar errors and now I am pathetically embarrassed. I can't edit the post!! Why? Why?? I need to edit. I'm trying to go to sleep tonight, but I keep thinking about 8-grade grammar issues! :eek:
 

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You can only edit you post if you are a paying/supporting member. I think it's $10 a year. Just do a search on supporting the board and you will find the info.

I haven't paid, and there are several times when I screwed up and wished I could change something in a post.
 

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Ahh Jeeesh!! Right now, I'm thinking it might be worth $10 just so I can sleep! j/k

You can only edit you post if you are a paying/supporting member. I think it's $10 a year. Just do a search on supporting the board and you will find the info.

I haven't paid, and there are several times when I screwed up and wished I could change something in a post.
 

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Sorry to get this off topic....
besides supporting the Forum, for the $10 you get a copy of a P99 armorers manual, can add a avatar and your name will be entered into a drawing.....
read the "raffle" sticky
 

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Sorry to get this off topic....
besides supporting the Forum, for the $10 you get a copy of a P99 armorers manual, can add a avatar and your name will be entered into a drawing.....
read the "raffle" sticky
At the risk of taking this discussion even further OT, I mailed to RCK a check for $50 (I was feeling beneficient and I do enjoy this forum and wanted to support it). That was back in September. The check has never been negotiated. I have no interest in feeding in another check until I learn what happened to the first one, and I have zero interest in getting involved with Paypal.

Unfortunately this is not an isolated experience. At the same time I sent a $100 check to Gunboards, which I also frequent. It was said they needed contributions for a complete server upgrade. That check was finally negotiated last month. I have yet to receive even an email in ackowledgment.

Bottom line: I've had a P99 armorer's manual for many years, have no compelling urge to post photos of my Walthers, and you all will just have to tolerate my syntax and typing errors.

M
 
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