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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, everyone!
I just picked up a P22CA last year.
And took it shooting for the second time.
It would not run CCI Mini Mags, they wouldn't eject.
I read previous forum posts on cleaning the barrel, and do a round drop test.
All of the rounds I shot and had to manually eject came out like this.
Is this an issue?
Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I answered one of my own questions. Gave the barrel/feed ramp a very good cleaning with a brush, and rounds drop in & out.
Now since I was posting with people breathing down my neck about what I was doing.
Is it in the nature of a Rimfire Handgun/Rifle to strike the top/edge of the casing to ignite the mixture?
I'm fairly new to 22LR, and I'm used to Centerfire rounds.
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright, I now feel dumb.
I just thought that it hit wherever it wanted on the cartridge (within reason of being in the same vicinity). I wasn't sure if I did something when i put it back together, when I originally cleaned it.
That Guide Spring is a pain to get back into place.
Thanks!
 

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Ha, it's okay RB. Heck, I just stopped by AutoZone and picked up a thermostat. Got home, popped the hood to take a look, and it took me a minute or so to actually locate the thermostat housing. Wasn't where I expected it to be.....same place it'd always been on a SB chevy......these 6.2 Liters are a different animal. I had NO idea. After looking at the location, I said to myself, I'm not doing that. I felt so dumb. Part of it is I'm getting too old to bend over the radiator like a pretzel. :D
 

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You should not have to be manually extracting spent cases. The gas generated by the burning powder should blow the spent case out with enough energy to cycle the slide, compress the recoil spring, cock the hammer and still have the case hit the ejector with enough force to kick the case out of the ejection port.

CCI Mini Mags are nearly faultless in a P22. Your job is the keep your hands off the slide when firing and hold the pistol firmly. A .22 doesn't generate a lot of recoil so it is really important to keep a firm grip on the pistol. No limp wristing. Keep your wrist straight and stiff.

If the pistol will not eject a spent case then we need to look at a couple of other things..but there isn't much left to look at. Did you reassemble the recoil spring and slide properly. It is almost impossible to do it wrong and have the pistol fit back together. Most of the time anyone runs into an issue of rounds not ejecting it is due to weak ammo ( which is not Mini Mags) or limp wristing, both of which can cause the slide to short stroke and simply shove the spent case back into the chamber. If the case is stuck and you have to drive it out with a wood dowel then your pistol or ammo has another issue.

If the spent cases are not stuck tight in the chamber then make sure your hand is not on the slide when firing and that the pistol is held firmly. Let us know about that and if you are still having issues. On the P22 the firing pin hits a rim at the 12:00 position and your firing pin strike looks fine. 1917
 

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I'm assuming the rear end of the case you are showing is from a fired cartridge. There are some duds in all .22 ammo but very few in CCI ammo. If your firing pin does not strike the rim hard enough to cause a proper indentation (firing pin strike) then the round won't fire. Simply pulling the trigger again will usually fire the round.

If rounds are not firing on the first hammer fall/firing pin strike and you are getting a light strike...this is an indication of a dirty chamber. The round isn't fully seating and is moving forward when the firing pin first hits it. That seats the round and the second strike will fire it....but the problem is that the chamber is dirty and needs cleaning. This is common to all .22 pistols with exception of perhaps revolvers. A round should freely drop all the way into the chamber. You could have a dirty firing pin that is not resetting or a weak hammer spring (mainspring) but we will check that if you continue to have issues. The pistol has a lifetime warranty. 1917
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, I spent the latter half of Sunday cleaning the living hell out of the barrel/feed ramp, and rounds drop in an out, unlike before. When I field stripped it, and threw a round in, it was hard getting it in, and had an even harder time getting out.
I could tell you right now, that I wasn't limp wristing. And I believe that the barrel not being cleaned was the main issue.
Quick question though. Is there a trick to getting that guide rod&spring to compress when reassembling.
Thank you
 

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Quick question though. Is there a trick to getting that guide rod&spring to compress when reassembling.
Thank you
If it still has the separate spring/guide rod combo replace it with a captured spring/rod. Makes reassembly a breeze. There are two makers (that I know of) Tandemkross and Galloway. I have the Galloway and like it a lot.
 

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https://www.waltherforums.com/forum...fitted-qd-captive-recoil-spring-assembly.html

If you want to install a captive spring you might look at the above thread for installing the new Walther version. It is very well made. If you have an older slide you need to drill out the guide rod hole to 1/4" and that is all. You will not be able to use the old assembly but the recoil spring will last a long, long time if not forever.

I never had any problem with the original myself but you do need a guide for ease of installation. Allen wrench, Phillips head screwdriver, section of cleaning rod, section of wood dowel, etc. To remount the slide; cock the hammer, stand the pistol muzzle up. Make sure the take down lever is all the way down. Drop in the guide rod and recoil spring. With the pistol still nose up place the recoil spring in the muzzle cup. Drop a guide rod down through the guide rod hole, through the recoil spring and let the end of the rod rest on the nose of the guide rod. Keep pressure there. Pull the slide rearward until the guide rod sticks out the nose of the slide. Hold the slide in this position. Drop the guide rod, lift up the pistol and pull the slide all the way to the rear. Press the rear of the slide down against the hammer to align the grooves with the rails, let the slide forward. Press the take down lever all the way up. Manually cycle the slide a few times to make sure everything is running smoothly. Takes abut 10 seconds...much longer to type it all out. 1917



Pull the slide back, lift up the pistol, press the slide down against the hammer and let forward. Press the slide stop up. Load and fire. Two things make this easy...cock the hammer and keep the end of the alignment rod against the end of the guide rod until the rod is sticking through the muzzle guide rod hole just a bit. Very easy. Never understood why folks had problems with this. The captive spring is better though and I recommend the Walther version.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I went through that forum a few times, obtaining more and more information each time i went through it.

I have a CA model, which means its an older style without the captured system. (Like pictured above).
I'm almost half tempted to contact Ft. Smith and see if they would be willing to either:
A: Sell me a QD slide w/ the new captured style. (Not sure of the legality of it)
OR
B: See if they could do this mod for me. (in hopes of keeping the warranty)
 

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CA won't care. CA's problem with the pistol was that the barrel nut could be removed allowing a thread adapter and suppressor to be installed. Assault firearm they called it. Yeah right, a P22.....assault firearm, right up there with the best of the evil black rifles. Anyway, Walther was able to work out a deal where they tightened the barrel with a barrel nut that has no wrench lands for removal and red loctited it on.

The end of the zinc slide is very easily drilled with a sharp drill bit. I asked Ft Smith about this and was told they had done the same thing to some of the older slides. I've measured several things on the new QD vs Q slide and other than the size of the hole they are the same. The captive spring appears to be exactly the same spring as the old one. Same diameter, same number of coils, same multi strand composition. I still place a #83 rubber O ring over the guide rod to act as a buffer but that is another story.

I think it would be a good idea to give them a call and ask about this. You don't need a QD slide. Whether or not they would recommend you carefully drill out the guide rod hole is another matter. They know me and are aware of my foolishness with the pistol over the years. I doubt the new assembly costs very much....perhaps $30 or $40, certainly cheaper than a new slide and recoil spring assembly. 1917
 

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When the P22 was introduced the external design was based on the P99 pistols (see below). In about 2011 the slide details and grip/frame details were changed to reflect PPQ design themes but a feature of all P22s was the ability to change between the 3.4" barrel and the 5" target barrel with included stabilizer weight. The other feature that the removable barrel nut allows beside being able to change barrels was the ability to easily add a suppressor to the pistol. CA didn't like this last idea and the locked on barrel nut is the only thing different, CA version verses the rest of the P22s.

I don't know the answer to "could a California resident/owner legally remove the CA nut and install a regular nut." But to do so would then allow you to change barrels and make sure the barrel stays tightly fitted onto the frame.. I don't believe suppressors are legal in CA.

1917

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Sadly, suppressors are completely illegal in CA. Though if I remember correctly, certain FFL holders are able to obtain Suppressors. Although, I dont need one, I would like one eventually.
I'm not looking to swap barrels, or anything like that. Just trying to simplify reassembly/functionality.
I'll give them a call/shoot them an email see what my options are.
 

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I can't imagine that swapping to a newer P22 recoil spring assembly would be of any concern to CA......but who knows. I expect the QD is sold there with the new recoil spring assembly and the locked on nut. So the only modification required would be to drill the guide rod hole out slightly. I don't think changing the front sight or changing to a VQ extractor would be of any concern to CA either. There isn't much else out there for a P22 other than the bridge mount for a red dot or small scope. I've fired a lot of rounds through the Q slide that I drilled out so I could install the new captive spring....works fine. 1917
 

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Checking back I see that I listed the new captive spring assembly as costing $22. This was taking the price shown on the invoice. Not $30 to $40. 1917
 

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Tandemkross sells a "Sentinal" captured recoil spring assembly for the older P22's that doesn't require drilling out the slide, I'd check into that.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The way the California Handgun roster works is; if the design in anyway, shape, or form is altered that isn't approved by the CADOJ (they want microstamping now a days) then it is taken off the roster for sale, and never allowed back on until they jump through all those hoops. Since the .22CA is an older design that was approved when Microstamping wasn't mandated it stays on the list as long as its not changed. Micro or not.
This is from what i've read, on many other CA forums (Not specifically the Walther forum)
I did end up Emailing Customer Service. So, whenever they respond. I'll post on here.
 
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