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Just got my new CCP and could not wait til I got to the range! I set up all my spatter targets, got out my Maglula, bullets, ears and now I am ready to go. I gently pull the trigger back, and back, and back. Must not be a round in the chamber so I recock and out comes the round! Ok, let's try again, back and back then boom! Right now I will go to the range a few more times and try to get a feel for the trigger but if not it will be on Gunbroker and I am sure I will take a bath. I am a 23 year military vet and fired tons of firearms and this has to be the worst trigger I ever came across! The sights are poor but I can work on them, the recoil is poor but I can get used to that, the teardown is not the best but I figured that out but the trigger is horrible.
 

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If the trigger travel distance is overwhelming and something you can't live with then the answer is obvious....the CCP travel is not something that can be modified other than eliminating grittiness and hesitation.
 

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Well the CCP is an entry level gun.

Before I buy a gun I generally research the snot out of it. I'd bet your experiences are common and reported.

I figure if you put it for trade (generally better terms) or sale on Armslist, you'll only lose 10%. Figure that's basically the cost to rent a gun at the range, take the small loss, and move on to something you prefer.
 

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If the trigger travel distance is overwhelming and something you can't live with then the answer is obvious....the CCP travel is not something that can be modified other than eliminating grittiness and hesitation.
Are you sure???? You need to take your pistol apart and put up some photos!!!! I've been wondering about this very issue....what needs to happen for the trigger to reset? Of course I've been trying to purchase a terrible functioning one for years for $50. I want one with all the problems. So you pull the trigger, the trigger bar grabs the end of the cylinder and begins rotating it which operates the sear/disconnect. The striker is released. The slide cycles and the sear catches the striker again. Usually, anyway. How far forward does the trigger have to move to reset and does it really need to move that far? It all seems it would depend on how much the cylinder needs to be rotated.

G I Shooter, thank you for your service. One vet to another. If you take your self defense firearm seriously....you should do a little reading here, trigger issues aside. This particular pistol has a very checkered reliability history. The best Walthers are the PPQs, P99s and PPS models out of Ulm. Welcome to the forum. 1917
 

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Are you sure???? You need to take your pistol apart and put up some photos!!!! How far forward does the trigger have to move to reset and does it really need to move that far?
1917

Trigger reset occurs almost at the full forward position. I asked the "Trigger Guy" if it was possible to adjust the reset and pre-travel. He specifically identified the PPS and CCP as impossible to adjust. Most other manufacturers models can be adjusted from minor to major amounts.....obviously Glock is at the top. He did make a significant adjustment to my XDs 45 in both pre-travel and reset position.
 

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I tried, but I just can't help myself,
Let me make just one suggestion, go to the range, set your target at 3 yards away, draw your CCP and empty the magazine, as fast as you can, into the target, and if you hit the target, with at least 4 of the 8 rounds......it did its job. It's a conceal carry pistol CCP. Not a range or competition weapon.
With all due respect......sir.
 

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"Did I Make a Huge Mistake?"

This is just a matter of perspective. All problems are relative. A good friend of mine who, after cancer surgery, has had to dramatically alter his way of life, was discussing with me a problem I had with my automobile. "That's not a huge problem," he said. "That's just a credit card problem."

M
 

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Sorry to hear it didn't work out. Be sure and read the sales rules. Are you up to speed on selling face to face, in state vs across the state lines. FFLs required there. It might help to include what State you live in. If you were to sell to me and you aren't in Alabama you would need to send the pistol to my FFL here. Most people ship from a FFL in their location also. Of course none of these guys do this for free. Trading the pistol on another might work as well...if you go back to the same shop they might work with you on another.

The P99 or compact 99 AS models have an unusual trigger. Striker fired and with a decocker on top of the slide. If decocked you have a DA first pull. After that you have a cocked striker with a very short reset (1/8"???) and very light trigger pull. I prefer some type of manual safety myself and a trigger dingus doesn't qualify in my opinion. The decocked P99 trigger is pretty impressive and one of the Ulm guns. Puts you in a revolver DA pull for the first one....or you can barely retract the slide before firing to activate the SA mode. People seem to love the PPQ trigger as well, no decocker. I haven't shot one but it seems people swear by them.

I looked at a Sig 365 recently and with all the hype....I wasn't all that impressed. I was impressed that it was a very small pistol holding 10 +1 of 9mm. I mean small pistol. The grip was rectangular, didn't like that. The texture felt like 60 grit sand paper and I personally thought the trigger was terrible. It slipped and slid and creeped the entire pull distance. However, this was a new pistol in the store and probably needed cleaning and some shooting to smooth things out. The sights were funny on it too. Which all goes to say...you need to carefully try out a firearm and then go to a Forum for that pistol and do some reading. If there are issues...they will show up for discussion immediately. The 365 has had some issues as I recall.

Good luck, there are plenty of pistols out there. Most of us go through a few before settling in on favorites. 1917
 

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"Did I Make a Huge Mistake?"

This is just a matter of perspective. All problems are relative. A good friend of mine who, after cancer surgery, has had to dramatically alter his way of life, was discussing with me a problem I had with my automobile. "That's not a huge problem," he said. "That's just a credit card problem."

M
Man, ain't that the truth. Just got back from another trip to MD Anderson. One more bladder cancer removed. Same type...more chemo of the same. But my prostate is full of cancer...still contained within the organ and I don't know what the treatment will be but if I'm going to have to fool around with it...I want them to just remove it. Some things can rearrange your priorities. 1917
 

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Mistake, possibly. I own one also. Read through CCP on the forum. It engages the cartridge on cycle before setting the striker. The CCP can, and has during shooting, grab a cartridge and not cycle far enough back to set the striker. In my case it fired, fortunately it was at a range. That could have been what happened. You didn't say wether you heard the pin drop. Edit.. you might want to post it for sale someplace where they are not familiar with the CCP.
 

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Edit.. you might want to post it for sale someplace where they are not familiar with the CCP.

That's funny right there!



I wanted my CCP to be "the gun". Ergonomics and accuracy were the best. However, after nine months, 960 rounds and numerous problems I decided that if I was carrying the CCP, I might as well be carrying a single shot. Anything beyond the first shot firing was a bonus. I was able to get $250 trade-in for it at my LGS, and that was after I warned them that it was great for plinking or target shooting but was worthless as a defensive weapon.


I hope you have good luck selling yours.
 

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The CCP can, and has during shooting, grab a cartridge and not cycle far enough back to set the striker. In my case it fired, fortunately it was at a range.
Gunner, are you saying your slide short stroked, a round was chambered, the striker was not caught by the sear, the slide closed chambering a round and with the uncaught striker following the slide forward it fired the round. We've known for a while that the striker will follow the slide forward when chambering a round if it is not caught by the sear....but, to date, I've not read of any actually firing as it is believed that the slide slows the forward movement of the striker as it is closing. It was an opinion this slowed the striker down and its mass was not enough to ignite a primer....although it certainly left a light strike mark on the primer. So, did yours fire in the above situation?

There is a video of some people dropping a CCP from about 4'-5' onto the rear end of the pistol where the striker is not caught and the firing pin nose is resting on a live primer, empty case.. In this case the primer was ignited. I can only think that the impact caused the striker spring to be compressed from the impact due to the weight of the striker/weakness of the striker spring and with no slide movement to slow the forward progress of the striker it rebounded under striker spring pressure/speed and fired the primer.

If these two situations can occur and fire a round...this is a very dangerous situation. Part of the problem is that the firing pin block is located way back and it is possible to chamber a round without the block or sear catching the striker. 1917
 

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Wow! I haven't seen this much hatred for a product since ralph nader called out the chevy corvair, being unsafe at any speed.
Funny you would say that....I was watching some old films of Corvair's rolling over. The old guy in one of the films was the Chevy engineer responsible for the design and bought Nader's car. Man, it was ugly then and it is uglier today. Anyway, he still maintained the car was safe and that the roll overs were done on purpose. Any fool can watch the films and see that the process was not manipulated. Speed the car up to 20, 25 mph...make a hard left or right and 8 out of 10 times the car slides or gets partially up on two wheels before banging back down....but the other two roll it. Swing axles, bad suspension including springs and dampers were part of the problem....but the real problem was just bad engineering....and this guy must have worked for Umarex.

If the CCP were a plinker that would be one thing and bad enough.....but what is the name of this pistol???? concealed carry what? There is the real rub. We aren't haters....we like Walther firearms...but the good name is taking a beating of recent years due to pistols like this one.

I'm still good for $50 for one to see what the fuss is about. I'd find out for certain if the pistol could fire a round when it wasn't supposed to, why the trigger reset can't be shortened, what to do about several things. I was looking at my Shield the other night while cleaning it....heck, the polymer, barrel, locking lugs, trigger....all that stuff isn't any better than a Walther in fact didn't look as good. But the pistol runs 100% I thought the trigger bar looked cheap...but it works fine. The pistol is no P99 or PPQ...but it works fine. The trigger is all plastic with a little spring...the trigger is only fair, heck it's only fair with the slide off and the sear pressed down...did I mention it runs 100%. That is what is important in a self defense firearm. Wish I had bought the .45 version when it was on sale a year or so ago for $225. I'll order it tomorrow I said to myself....well, tomorrow and they were all sold. I don't need one anyway. Sure wish Walther would put a slightly smaller grip on the PPQ models...a backstrap option might do it.... 1917
 

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Double fire can happen for a variety of reasons, AR-15s are extremly known for it, but the thing is, you cant say without a reasonable doubt, why it happened, because it already happened, when you weren't expecting it. With that being said, as you well know, the variables for this happening are not singular, they are multiple. First of all, there is not enough striker spring pressure, when the striker spring is fully extended, to set off the primer cap, when the slide shuts, the striker would just be pushed back into the hole.
Second, with the nub of the striker protruding out of the hole, another round would not be able to slide into place, the protruding firing pin/nub would prevent a round from sliding up and behind the extractor.
I know this first hand, because i broke the pin off of the striker, it continued to protrude ever when the sear had the striker, and another round would not cycle.
If this were the case, you could make this gun full auto, just by filing down the disconnector and removing the drop safety.😊😊😊
 

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...The CCP can, and has during shooting, grab a cartridge and not cycle far enough back to set the striker. In my case it fired, fortunately it was at a range. That could have been what happened...
I think you're on to something, especially on a new pistol. No rails, higher friction between slide & barrel. Couple that (possibly) with lightweight projectiles and recoil energy can be overcome. Sludged up piston/cylinder from fluid lubrication attracting residue all acting together can slow it down to non-functioning.


I suggest before giving up on the gun, try a heavier projectile (147 gr) for a couple hundred rounds and either no lube or a dry lube in the chamber, bore, piston and cylinder. Let the pistol get used to itself.


I use Elmer's Slide-All Dry Teflon, but there's bunches of dry lubes with PTF/Teflon.

 
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