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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Planning to send this kit back in, but I want to understand what is going on here before I do.

After probably 2 or 3 magazines I started having an occasional dead trigger where the sear fails to grab onto the striker. Everything else cycles correctly. Pull back the slide just enough to engage the striker and it fires again. On one mag it would fail once, the next 5 or more times. You will know it happened when you let off the trigger and it doesn't reset at all. Completely dead trigger.

I believe the issue is that the angle the lever is set at puts it back too far which doesn't give the sear enough surface area to hold onto. I can't reproduce the dead trigger by racking the slide, only on the range. This is as much contact as I can get on it. Does this seem like a probable cause?

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Also callout to this useful post as I was trying to understand what is what here.
 

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Maybe back out the screw in the housing a bit - the one that reduces the overlap of the single action lever against the sear.
I'd say that's it.

That screw adjusts the amount of sear engagement surface between the sear and the single action lever. Backing it out will give you more trigger creep, but it will be less likely to have the issue you are having. I don't see how a trigger/trigger bar would have anything to do with this issue unless the tab on the trigger bar that pushes the single action lever to the rear is way out of spec. Start with the screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Is it a screw? The inside surface against the lever is flat, though it does look like a set screw on the side to me. The housing opening opposite of it is blocked off exactly like this marketing photo.
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I suppose so, but is the problem fixed now?

I wonder if this trigger/trigger bar would match up to the original sear housing, and this extra sear housing that came with the trigger kit is just there to allow adjustment of the sear engagement surface with that screw for those who want to adjust creep and reset. Other than that screw, do you notice any differences from the stock sear housing, other than the ejector?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I suppose so, but is the problem fixed now?

I wonder if this trigger/trigger bar would match up to the original sear housing, and this extra sear housing that came with the trigger kit is just there to allow adjustment of the sear engagement surface with that screw for those who want to adjust creep and reset. Other than that screw, do you notice any differences from the stock sear housing, other than the ejector?
Differences that probably don't matter for performance:
The case of the stock housing not as open on the trigger bar side, I don't believe this would have any functional impact other than making the housing more rigid.
The ejector is quite a bit different in how it is manufactured and installed but remains identical in position and function. probably just manufacturing optimizations.

Differences that probably do matter:
The single action lever is much wider in order to house the much stronger spring.
That stronger spring gives the stock PDP a much more audible click on the reset.
The actual lever part of the single action lever has been chopped off for the PDP design.
Short video in the OP of this post explains probably why. PDP single action lever

I spent about an hour last night going back and forth between the two sear housings to compare and try to adjust the creep on the trigger kit sear. As far as I can tell the trigger bars are identical in form and function.

The creep on the trigger kit sear when set to anything more than how it was from the box feels terrible, easy to slip thru the creep only to snap into a groove that is right at breakpoint. not linear or smooth at all.

So current setup is stock sear housing, performance trigger, and the heavier trigger return spring from the kit. Dry fires feel great. Hopefully get some range time tonight to give it a try. I suspect this will be a safter configuration with the chopped off lever anyway.
 

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So current setup is stock sear housing, performance trigger, and the heavier trigger return spring from the kit. Dry fires feel great. Hopefully get some range time tonight to give it a try. I suspect this will be a safter configuration with the chopped off lever anyway.
This was going to be my suggestion, as long as the new trigger/trigger bar fit on the stock sear housing.

I appreciate you going through the differences between the two sear housings. It is interesting to hear that they changed the spring rates from the older P99 and PPQ pistols. The stronger single action lever spring must be to help with the issue where the striker can be released due to an impact. The stronger "click" on reset must come from the trigger return spring.
 

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This is actually very worrying for me. I just purchased the exact same trigger from Walther that comes with the complete trigger set and fire control and it will be arriving tomorrow. While doing some research on proper installation tips I happened across quite a few instances where people are explaining your EXACT same problem and they've all been linked to the latest set to come from factory. Of all the instances I've found with the same issue, not one of the individuals had came up with any solution. I'm also finding a TON of conflicting information on how to properly install this trigger in a pdp as well. Walther used to have a video on the product page for installation instructions but the video just recently became privated on YouTube so it can't be viewed which is even more suspicious to me.... I contacted customer support about instalation instructions AS WELL as concern about the very issue you're having and the famous and very unpopular Marcus responded back with a video on YouTube for installation that's on a ppk and you can hardly tell what the hell the guys even doing.... He also said NOTHING about my concern with your issue... Something fishy is going on....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is actually very worrying for me. I just purchased the exact same trigger from Walther that comes with the complete trigger set and fire control and it will be arriving tomorrow. While doing some research on proper installation tips I happened across quite a few instances where people are explaining your EXACT same problem and they've all been linked to the latest set to come from factory. Of all the instances I've found with the same issue, not one of the individuals had came up with any solution. I'm also finding a TON of conflicting information on how to properly install this trigger in a pdp as well. Walther used to have a video on the product page for installation instructions but the video just recently became privated on YouTube so it can't be viewed which is even more suspicious to me.... I contacted customer support about instalation instructions AS WELL as concern about the very issue you're having and the famous and very unpopular Marcus responded back with a video on YouTube for installation that's on a ppk and you can hardly tell what the hell the guys even doing.... He also said NOTHING about my concern with your issue... Something fishy is going on....
The trigger swap is the most involved part of it since you have to pull apart almost everything on the frame.

You can swap the sear group by only needing to pull the one rear pin (part 31). Give it a little twist as you are lifting up and out so that you can maneuver the trigger bar out of it. I found doing it that way was the easiest to hook up the spring to the trigger bar as well.


I just referenced some generic tear down videos, such as this one before attempting.

Don't disassemble the sear group, assembly of it is a PITA.

When you put the locking block (part 29.1) back in you need to have the slide lock spring in the frame first (part 30). Then you just have to lift up and out on it while you slide the lever back thru the frame and trigger.

After you do it once or twice it isn't bad at all. Knowing what I think I know now, I'd recommend you keep the stock pdp sear group in it.
 
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