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I ordered a small cleaning kit from M-Pro 7 to keep in my range bag off of Amazon for about $30.

Comes with two little 2oz bottles of M-Pro 7 gun cleaner and cleaner lubricant protectant CLP. I'm going to stick a few brushes and microfiber clothes in it. I figured I'd start with the basics. Anything else I should get? A bore snake perhaps?

Don't see many using M-Pro 7 here. Is it not that popular?
 

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DeepSix, don't worry about cleaning the Q. It won't break. Trust me. I've gone 2,000 rounds without anything more than running a rag over it and through the barrel. M Pro 7 is too expensive. Less is more. Buy a can of Ballistol and use that to clean and lube. Works well. Kept my Beretta clean for 6 years of EDC by the ocean.
 

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Everyone has a favorite cleaning solvent, for last couple of years I have been using Shooter's Choice with good results. Living in Florida where things can rust pretty quickly I have found that G96 sprayed on a shaving brush and lightly applied to all the metal parts provides good protection without attracting dirt. It appears to dry after a while. I used a small amount of Slide Glide grease on a toothpick on areas where there is contact between parts. A little of this goes a long way, I've been using the same 2oz of the stuff for about 10 years and doesn't look like I've used any. I shoot about 300 rounds ever week clean and lube after every session.
 

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DeepSix, don't worry about cleaning the Q. It won't break. Trust me. I've gone 2,000 rounds without anything more than running a rag over it and through the barrel. M Pro 7 is too expensive. Less is more. Buy a can of Ballistol and use that to clean and lube. Works well. Kept my Beretta clean for 6 years of EDC by the ocean.
I've actually started using Ballistol to clean my PPQ. Good stuff! I might even start brushing my teeth with it!
 

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I clean after every use regardless of number of rounds fired.

I'm into a through "douche" of the frame internals with "Lock-Ease" graphited lock fluid. The special carrier evaporates quickly leaving a graphited long-wearing film that prevents sticking and guards against rust and wear. Helps seal out moisture from working parts. It’s not affected by temperature extremes. Keeps all those plastic on plastic pieces parts and such cleaner in that there is no oil to collect dust and debris.

A quick barrel swab with Barnes CR-10 (Ammonia & Ethylene Glycol N-Butyl) and then a little "Gun Butter" oil and grease at the various wear points.
 

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I ordered a small cleaning kit from M-Pro 7 to keep in my range bag off of Amazon for about $30. ...
Boresnake's are always a great investment. You can go overboard with all the threads and debate on lube. I'll save you some reading, pretty much everything works for lube including one test using vagisil. The only thing I've personally ever had a problem with is FrogLube, a small bottle on my desk is somewhat gritty and chunky. Actually slowed my slide down on my M&P to where it was slo-mo.

Anyway use what you got until it's gone and then if you think you need something else give it a try. Lots of manufacturers will give you free samples and they last a long long time. You can never go wrong with the common CLP's like FP-10, Break-free and oils like Slip2000. You can get marginally better results using something to remove the carbon first then a solvent of sorts on the copper fouling but the most recent thoughts on the subject indicate that most people are causing much more wear on their bore from cleaning than actually shooting.
 

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I realize that this is not the Walther.. But Have any of you cleaned your Walther like this? Baby wipes totally threw me off..
 

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That's quite interesting. This will protect the metal parts from rust?
I've been thru the Glock armorer's course and I don't recall baby wipes in the curriculum. I would think that you are introducing significant amounts of moisture where you don't want it. If you want something to remove carbon and junk then use a little MPro-7 on a rag but you still need to lube and protect after. Even Glocks rust eventually.

There's always the dishwasher method too.:eek:
 

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I use mpro7 on all my guns, I did a bunch of research a while ago and it was one of the best in a few rust tests, beat out everything and tied one or two other brands. Frog lube seems overpriced, requires a bit of a process up front and in the end seems to me to be sort of a gimmick. I've heard good things about ballistol but it may be hype from hicock45s rave review about it. My guess is you can probably treat the ppq like a glock since it's essentially a really nice glock clone, basic cleaning and light lube on the same points as a glock should do. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong in what I've said I don't mean to spread bad info, just my opinion.
 

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Ballistol is decent if you can handle the smell. I did a couple pairs of cuffs that I carry at work and it took several days for the smell to dissipate or until I couldn't notice it anymore.

There are a couple of good youtube videos by a guy that does a whole bunch of tests of a steel plate. I think very few of us submit our guns to weeks outside or salt baths so I think you're safe using just about everything. Why over think it when there are plenty of proven solid choices out there. FP-10/Slip2000/MPro-7. There isn't any cleaner or lube that's going to clean the gun for you or magically wipe clean with a paper towel and no work. Honestly it's not that hard to clean a gun anyway.

The only magic choice out there is Robar's NP3+, if you really need the best of the best save the money on wonder lubes and send your gun to Robar.
 

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I use M-Pro 7 Gun Cleaner all the time.

I use M-Pro 7 on my Walther PPQ M2 9 mm pistol all the time. I clean the pistol after each range trip. I like to keep it super clean and lightly oiled.

I use a little grease on the slide parts that make contact with the frame. I also like to take a little spot of grease and put it on the trigger parts with a toothpick. Just a little bit. My gun came with some grease in certain spots (metal parts mostly). I use Lightweight oil on the springs and moving parts as per the gun's manual.

One thing I did do was spray some Break Free Powder Blast Gun Cleaner down though out the frame to clean out any grease or dirt. But then I read that the Break Free Powder Blaster Gun Cleaner stuff contains toluene and acetone and it's not supposed to be used on rubber or plastic parts. So far my frame (Polymer) is still in good shape. I add oil or some grease to some parts of the frame after I cleaned it with the Break Free Powder Blaster Gun Cleaner stuff. So far I don't know if any damage has occurred but I'm not going to be using Break Free Powder Blaster on my frame anymore. Although it does do a good job of getting the frame really clean without leaving any residue.

I read in the forums here that some people are using CLP to clean the frame and its part. How do you get the residue of the CLP out of the frame? Does that not leave an oily residue on the frame? Will that not collect the dirt and carbon more? I've read that the frame doesn't really get that dirty so it should not need that much cleaning. But still, I suspect that some burned gun power gets into the frame over time.

I also take the striker out of the slide and clean it with M-Pro 7 and a Nylon or Brass Brush. I'll wipe the excess off with cotton patches. Then I'll put a drop or two of oil on a clean patch and rub a light coating of oil on all the metal parts of the slide. I'll wipe off any excess oil. The light oil coating is used to protect the metal from rust.

I could use a sonic cleaner to clean some of the parts like the slide but I've not had to do that yet. I do clean the Bolt and Bolt carrier parts of my AR15 with the ultrasonic cleaner.

But I get my PPQ clean with just M-Pro 7. I wish it was not so expensive and came in a larger bottle. I've tried using Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner and think it works as well as the M- Pro 7. Hoppe's Elite comes in a larger container too.
 

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Not much to really get very dirty on a PPQ. The small steel runners that run in slide,just wipe them and apply a quality firearm grease like Weapon Shield. Clean bore of bbl. a small amount of quality oil and it!s done. Remember less is always better then more.:rolleyes:
 

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This is an interesting thread, and I have enjoyed reading how others go about cleaning their guns, and their choices of gun cleaning products. However, I have noticed that a lot of posts sound as though members are constantly searching for the "best" products. I really don't think that there is such a thing anymore than there is a best brand of soap or shampoo for your shower. Any major brand will get you just as clean as any other. I think that it is more a choice of "favorite" products that you have come to like rather than a never ending search for the "best". Any of the products recommended in previous posts within this thread will do the job just fine, and I would lean in favor of the lesser expensive products, and those that are easiest to use. Just my two cents worth.
 

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This is an interesting thread ...
Scarface, you pretty much summed up thousands of lube threads. Just about all of them work less a few obvious choices like WD-40 or something else that firearms aren't a suitable application. It's easy to get tricked into buying the next "Wonder Lube" based on all the YouTube videos and reviews. But in real life (like everything else) you may not get any better results than what you are already using. With the minimal amount of lube required of most modern pistols (at least the polymer ones) just about everything will work. Honestly the only lube I've personally had problems with was Frog Lube, but it seems they are ever changing their formulations so results are mixed.

Like I said in an earlier post if you stick with proven solid choices it's hard to go wrong. FP-10/WeaponShield/Slip2000.
 

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I've had my PPQ since 11/14 and have been cleaning it with Hoppe's #9, and now I read it contains ammonia and Walther recommends ammonia free cleaners. The official cleaning video on the Walther website shows the PPQ being cleaned with Hoppe's #9. Just a bit confused as to what product I should use for a solvent. Yes, I'm a noob and trying to learn as much as I can about all aspects of gun ownership.
 

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I've had my PPQ since 11/14 and have been cleaning it with Hoppe's #9, and now I read it contains ammonia and Walther recommends ammonia free cleaners. The official cleaning video on the Walther website shows the PPQ being cleaned with Hoppe's #9. Just a bit confused as to what product I should use for a solvent. Yes, I'm a noob and trying to learn as much as I can about all aspects of gun ownership.

Don't get too wrapped up in it, there are plenty of ammonia free bore solvents / cleaning solvents out there. To keep it simple you could use a single CLP product like Weaponshield or FP-10 and be done with it. Most polymer guns don't have rigid lube requirements, just about anything will work. Used responsibly I'm sure most ammonia based solvents are fine, but you'll always have someone that wants to soak something overnight with Sweets 7.62 and cause more harm than good.
 

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I clean the barrel & other metal parts with brake part cleaner, RemOil brand bore cleaner on a brush, about 50-80 passes, then rinse it out with the brake cleaner, put FireClean on a bore snake for about 6 passes then a few passes with FireClean on a bore mop.... Brush the slide area, wipe down with the FireClean, put a few drops along the the rail grooves, Q-tip the trigger area, reassemble, work the slide several times to work the lube in, good to go
 

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One cleaner that gets very little mention but I have found to be very effective is Shooter's Choice. It devolves powder residue on contact, scrubbing is only needed where you may have heavy build up. I usually just wet a patch, run it through the barrel once, let it set for few seconds. I then run a brass brush through 4 or 5 times to loosen any lead depositsthdeposits. Then I alternate between wet and dry patches until the dry patch comes out clean. Usually takes 2 wet and 2 dry to get everything. I then run 1 patch wet with oil just to prevent rust. It is not easy to find but if you happen to see some give it a try.
 

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Shooter's Choice makes a full range of quality products, and I'm not sure which one you are referring too. I use Hoppes #9 bore cleaner but am careful to remove wood grips or stocks prior to use, because it will damage wood finishes. I am also careful to wipe down and dry patch everything soon after scrubbing the barrel, bolt face, and feed ramp, and then I flush everything with a few squirts of Gun Scrubber (or similar product) to get rid of any solvent residue that might remain. I also squirt Gun Scrubber on my bronze brushes because bore solvent will attack bronze too. I have never read of a bore solvent manufacturer that states that its product is safe if it comes in contact with polymer frames, but I try to avoid contact as much as possible on my Tupperware guns. If anyone knows of a non-corrosive bore cleaner that will clean as well as Hoppes #9, throw some names out in this thread please.
 
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